i'm having a couple problems with my rebuilt motor with jdm type r pistons. everything is stock and i have no power steering and no a/c. i have 3,000 miles since the rebuild.
a lot of the time when my headlights are on the idle will stay at 1100rpm no matter how long it sits stopped and then when i turn the headlights off it will drop to 800rpm like it should.
more recently the car has started bogging really badly and the idle drops to 500 and picks back up and drops again at a stop.
i did a compression test and got 250,200,245,260. and the #4 spark plug was white. the next day the ecu had a code 45 so i'm guessing i'm running lean. the cel turns off for a day and then back on with this code the next day.
i broke in the motor very easy with light throttle with RPM no higher than 5-6000.
i'm hoping that the #2 cylinder is just taking longer to seat cause i have gone easy on the motor.
please help, i'm lost on what to do and check for to fix this. thanks in advance

 

what else do you have done?
do a leakdown test as well.

 

Sounds like a your engine isn't working at 100% , whenever there is a load on the alternator, it takes more hp to turn the alternator. How does it sound? Does it sound like it has a dead piston or somethin? "Puh puh puh puh" A lean misfire is a definate power loss , I would check the injectors...or the ECU...maybe one of the wires going to one of your injectors is pinched or grounded....check your engine wiring harness. The compression check was wet or dry? Squirt some motor oil into the cylinders and try checking compression again, maybe that will even out the psi #'s. The ecu can tell you which cylinder is lean misfiring but you need a real scan tool to look up that info... lastly did you properly adjust your valves?
hope that helps

 

putting oil in the cyls will ALWAYS raise the comp numbers so its not a good way to test anything.

 

pistons are .25 over. intake resonator box has been removed, everything else is stock.
the wires to the injectors had been cut and are now the wires are just crimped together. could they not be making a good enough connection?
i'm going to give it a valve adjustment soon to see if that helps.
when i did the compression check i put three caps of oil in the bad cylinder and it jumped to 300 immediatly.
also i re-used the head studs. is it possible that the head didn't seal to the block correctly cause of this
today on the way home for an hour drive the car ran great and had no idle problems. it does feel very strong and doesn't sound like its detonating. although just before it hits vtec i hear a weird muffled almost vtec noise.