ok 90 crx si. first gen b16 with hasport mounts wiring harness and pr3. j1 tranny

ok i got my vacuum all figured out. my timing issues solved. now my last problem.
i cannot go past 7200 rpm. it will climb upto it, and when i am at wot around 7200 it will go BANG like a backfire, like i put in the clutch, but i didnt, and wouldnt allow me to climb in rpm. HELP. thank you. p.s. no codes getting thrown. umm my timinging is adavnced a bit. please any and all help .!!>>

 

Is the PR3 an automatic one?

 

Thats my guess.. if you open up the ECU.. since it being JDM and used.. you won't get a warrenty anyways.. it will say AT, or MT printed in the middle of the board. I belive the AT's did govern out at 7200.

 

no my pr3 is an AT ecu and it never governed me at 7200. i have two of them and neither do it.

 

do JDM ecus have a cold rev limiter??
if thats the case, i could tell the guy to stick a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator .. and then after engine its warm to gun it... see if its under cold rev.. happens to my PM6.... i keep redlinning @ 6200 bc of cold rev.. after the cardboard trick i can take it to the 6800....
just a pointer

 

Nah, ide put money on the fact he's got a AT ECU.. besides the fact... even if he was... he'd never get to 7200 without VTEC engaging.. the cams would top out, and it would just bog at like 8600, and not climb anymore.. he said it limited out.. not bogged, and strugled to 7200. My moneys on the AT ECU.

 

did you even read my above post before you said that? i have two count them 2 pr3 ecu's that when you open them up have the AT stamped to the board and guess what? neither of them top out at 7200. reading comprehension owns j00.

 

OK.. then the only other reasoning would be his ECU thinks his engine is cold? Why isn't he asking why his VTEC isn't engaging? its not a NON VTEC, OBD0 ECU.. hes just not spinning it as high as it goes.. and why would you want a AT ECU..? I have 3 MT's laying around, and 1 chipped in the beast right now..

i think those are the only 2 elements, engine temp, and AT's. Like i said, if he's getting VTEC, can't be the temp...

 

well it's not because it's an auto ecu, engine temp would cause his car to not switch to the second cam so it's probably not that.

as to why would someone want an auto ecu? well they are more readily available. there is no difference between the auto and the manual pr3 from talking to a few different techs at honda. they are cheaper and can also be flashed and come out as the same price as a manual ecu. honestly it really doesn't matter as long as it's a pr3.

do you have another ecu to try it out with? recheck your wiring also. is it like it's hitting a rev limiter or something else?

 

also do you have a way of monitoring your oil pressure besides the idiot light? if your car is for some reason dropping oil pressure then that could explain it.

 

nah, i doubt that making him top out at 7200.. to me it sounds like he's getting a rev limitor at 7200.. not just fadding off.. oil PSI doesnt' have anything to do with that.. ive seen cars throw rods due to low oil press.. not rev limit..

i dunno.. the AT ecu has to rev limit lower than the MT's.. your saying your AT goes to 8200 just liek the MT's?

 

auto ecu's tach out to 7500 rpms...

 

yes i know that both my pr3 ecu's dont top out at 7200.

 

Rex B16
auto ecu's tach out to 7500 rpms...
_______

OK.. now thats more understandable.. we all know stock gauges arn't on the ball all the time, actually.. off more than on... so maybe his tach is off, and he's hittin 7500.. and not 7200.. just a thought, both ECU's can't be the same.. why does everyone want a MT, and not a AT.. price? nah.. there's differnces.

 

okay here is what i'm going to do. i already have pics of my ECU's up on the boards here and everyone knows it's an AT ecu. my turbo is being intalled monday and the car is in the shop getting finished up now from the new ES kit anda few other things. i'm going to take my digi cam and get up in the car and have them lift it off the ground. i will show you that my car goes all the way into the red and i dont hit the limiter until it's buried to where i can't tell what rpm i'm at. this is on a crx SI with a b16a. will you need anymore proof?

 

if its "burried" and i dont' take it you have a Jap Spec cluster, or VTi.. maybe an external Auto Meter one.. how do you know what RPM your at? The only other way would be the Dyno..

""i will show you that my car goes all the way into the red and i dont hit the limiter until it's buried to where i can't tell what rpm i'm at. this is on a crx SI with a b16a. will you need anymore proof?""

If you can't tell.. explain to me how you know just how far your RPMs are spining?


[Modified by Built B16A, 9:47 PM 2/13/2003]

 

Thats funny how you said you burry your neddle in the dash, and you dont' know what RPM your at... but yet you argue the fact your engine is taching out 8200 like a MT ECU.. doens't add up..

Another thing.. if AT's REV out the same as MTs.. why would they even make a MT, and a AT ECU? Communication to the AT tranny only? You think a AT tranny can spin that high? As far as up hybrid people... why do MT's cost more than AT's.. AT's being more redily avail.? Cheaper? Differences... thats the bottom line.. differences.

 

what does a stock guage cluster end at? at 8000rpms the stock crx si cluster ends. it's buried all the way to that point and i can go just a little further before i hit the limiter.

i dont have an autometere Tach or one of those giant huge tachs like half of the local rice boys in this area do. i have no need for it because i know that when i'm at 8k i need to shift the damn car. is it that hard to understand?

you can sit there and try to argue with me all day long but do you own a AT pr3 ECU? do you own two of them like i do? i don't believe you do, i do though on the other hand and i've never once had a problem pulling all the way up to 8grand.

 

lol.. don't get your panties all in bunch and fix his car then..

 

well he first needs to try another ecu. mine was throwing a code 6 and then i purchased another. it worked fine with the new one never throwing a code.

 

first of all. I LIVE IN LINCOLN NEBRASKA. no one has a b16 a here. just I. umm. what else. i slowly started revving the **** out of it. andi can slowly bring the revs up. i got it up to 7800 once. then i went home. later i tried bringing it up agian. and it was back at 7200. you guys say temp makes a difference? well i have my fan hard wired on so my radiator fan is always on. maybe im never up to operating temp? hmm. its werid. when it gets hotter , i can bring it up just a little bit more. then when i do it all over again it goes pop again. growl. SO CLOSE.

p.s. i sold my friend my old 89 crx si. with i/h/e AND HE BEAT ME.

ahsdf a;lskdf aksljdf awklejf wfk;lj asrejf how pissed was I? super pissed. i paid more for my engine and **** than he did for the whole damn car. and he still beat me. so yeah. keep the info. coming. i odnt think its a AT ecu. cuz i can bring up revs diffrently .

THANKS GUYS. KEEP THE INFO COMING.

 

only things i can think of r what sum 1 else mentioned about the a/t ecu , make sure coolant temp is plugged in and check the knock sensor , good luck

 

ok on coolant temp. would it be plugged in if im reading a temp on my gauge ? like hot or cold?

and knock. how do i CHECK IT? and if im not throwing a code isnt that enough?

damn my slowness.

 

I think I know what you're talking about. Yesterday I started my car, and once the temperature gauge moved slightly over C I nailed it, and it felt like I hit a pothole at 7200 RPM. Normally I hit rev limiter at 8200. Probably not the smartest thing to do when the engine wasn't fully warmed up, but if that happened to me, then its more than likely your problem. I think the hardwired fan is your problem. See if you can covert it to a thermoswitch or just a toggle switch. I'll put my money on that.

 

does it matter if your car is fully warmed up or not?

can i still hit redline if i started my car up and ran it right away? even in 24 degree weather?