I need some help, clutch related
I don't know much about clutches - but I am learning. I have been reading through the H-T archives for the better part of today (not joking) and searching for information on clutches.
Basically, Acura wants to charge me $982 for a new Type R clutch/flywheel. I'm not down with that. However they are already going to charge me $225 for dropping the transmission because they couldn't find anything that they would cover under warranty. (They told me if they found anything wrong, I wouldn't be charged, but they didn't find anything)
They said that the main bearing and the pressure plate are both worn down. On top of that I was also told that the type R flywheel cannot be recoated? That's another $200 from Acura right there.
They told me that they would install any clutch/flywheel combo I wanted, seeing as they are already going to charge me for labor (the initial $225).
I don't know much about this stuff and I need to know from the more experianced people on this board, or anyone that has any insight on this:
A) if I am being ripped off
B) if I do get an aftermarket clutch/flywheel, which one? (I autocross/drag maybe 7-8 times each year, the rest is aggressive street driving)
C) if anything above seems shady and what I can tell them or say to them about it, so I don't get taken advantage of
I appreciate any help I can get here. I don't want to get ripped and this is the only place that I think I'll get straight answers from.
Thanks again,
Chris
Basically, Acura wants to charge me $982 for a new Type R clutch/flywheel. I'm not down with that. However they are already going to charge me $225 for dropping the transmission because they couldn't find anything that they would cover under warranty. (They told me if they found anything wrong, I wouldn't be charged, but they didn't find anything)
They said that the main bearing and the pressure plate are both worn down. On top of that I was also told that the type R flywheel cannot be recoated? That's another $200 from Acura right there.
They told me that they would install any clutch/flywheel combo I wanted, seeing as they are already going to charge me for labor (the initial $225).
I don't know much about this stuff and I need to know from the more experianced people on this board, or anyone that has any insight on this:
A) if I am being ripped off
B) if I do get an aftermarket clutch/flywheel, which one? (I autocross/drag maybe 7-8 times each year, the rest is aggressive street driving)
C) if anything above seems shady and what I can tell them or say to them about it, so I don't get taken advantage of
I appreciate any help I can get here. I don't want to get ripped and this is the only place that I think I'll get straight answers from.
Thanks again,
Chris
A) Chris, give Metro Acura a call and compare the prices on the parts you need. Their number is (909) 626-6000
B) Way back when the popular setup that maintained a stock-like feel but grabbed much better was a ACT HeavyDuty or Extreme pressure plate combined with their organic street disc. For your purpose, the HeavyDuty PP/organic street disc combo should suffice.
C) If after you call other places and compare prices and you still feel like they are charging too much, but you are satisfied with their technicians that are going to work on the car, then just purchase the parts from elsewhere and have your dealer install them.
Try talking to members on the board that work for Acura dealers, they might be able to get you a better deal on the parts you are looking for. You might want to try and send a PM over to Len on the board. Here's a link to his sig.... https://honda-tech.com/zerouser?cmd=viewprofile&id=4157.
Here's an ACT review: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=409277
Good luck
B) Way back when the popular setup that maintained a stock-like feel but grabbed much better was a ACT HeavyDuty or Extreme pressure plate combined with their organic street disc. For your purpose, the HeavyDuty PP/organic street disc combo should suffice.
C) If after you call other places and compare prices and you still feel like they are charging too much, but you are satisfied with their technicians that are going to work on the car, then just purchase the parts from elsewhere and have your dealer install them.
Try talking to members on the board that work for Acura dealers, they might be able to get you a better deal on the parts you are looking for. You might want to try and send a PM over to Len on the board. Here's a link to his sig.... https://honda-tech.com/zerouser?cmd=viewprofile&id=4157.
Here's an ACT review: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=409277
Good luck
Thanks man, after all the research I did, I've been leaning towards a setup similar to that one. ALthough I'd like to stay OEM... this clutch failed and if they didn't cover it this time, they won't cover it the next. So what's the point? Thanks again.
A Fidanza from http://www.aliminumflywheels.com</a> or <A HREF="http://www.titanmotorsports.com" TARGET="_blank">http://www.titanmotorsports.com/ since Fidanza recommended them when I called and doesn't actually sell directly, will help out with acceleration a bit. I'd say the HD ACT pressure plate would work well for you though personally I got the hybrid (organic/copper?) disc for a little better grip and heat dissipation (in the past). The prices shouldn't be much worse than stock.
Ed
[Modified by zygspeed, 6:59 AM 2/13/2003]
Ed
[Modified by zygspeed, 6:59 AM 2/13/2003]
What is the background to your problem? Was the clutch slipping or was there something else? Did you ask them to tell you the thickness of the clutch disk? Also I am guessing the bearing they are talking about would be the throwout bearing (contacts the pressure plate). They always are a bit worn after some use. Unless it was making noise I wouldn't consider it bad.
Regarding the flywheel - what does recoating mean. I am guessing turning it or resurfacing it. If they are using those terms (recoating, main bearing), it seems like they don't know what they are talking about (service advisor?). Hopefully the mechanic does.
My local dealer was very quick to say I needed a new clutch at about $800 when the pedal was squeaking. 2 years later a retaining spring broke on the disk and I had it replaced (not at the dealer). The disk was only worn about 30% from new. The car had about 75K miles on it.
Regarding the flywheel - what does recoating mean. I am guessing turning it or resurfacing it. If they are using those terms (recoating, main bearing), it seems like they don't know what they are talking about (service advisor?). Hopefully the mechanic does.
My local dealer was very quick to say I needed a new clutch at about $800 when the pedal was squeaking. 2 years later a retaining spring broke on the disk and I had it replaced (not at the dealer). The disk was only worn about 30% from new. The car had about 75K miles on it.
The background is my clutch enguagement is inconsistant. I took it in and they drove it, felt the problem and told me that they'll have to drop the transmission, if they found something to cover under warranty then it's all good, but if they didn't I would have to pay at least $225 for labor. I think that's bullshit, but whatever.
The mistakes in terminology is probably my fault, I don't know much about clutches and that's what I thought I heard, but resurfacing and throwout bearing sounds right.
The car has 35k on it and it's a 2001.
The mistakes in terminology is probably my fault, I don't know much about clutches and that's what I thought I heard, but resurfacing and throwout bearing sounds right.
The car has 35k on it and it's a 2001.
What is the background to your problem? Was the clutch slipping or was there something else? Did you ask them to tell you the thickness of the clutch disk? Also I am guessing the bearing they are talking about would be the throwout bearing (contacts the pressure plate). They always are a bit worn after some use. Unless it was making noise I wouldn't consider it bad.
Regarding the flywheel - what does recoating mean. I am guessing turning it or resurfacing it. If they are using those terms (recoating, main bearing), it seems like they don't know what they are talking about (service advisor?). Hopefully the mechanic does.
My local dealer was very quick to say I needed a new clutch at about $800 when the pedal was squeaking. 2 years later a retaining spring broke on the disk and I had it replaced (not at the dealer). The disk was only worn about 30% from new. The car had about 75K miles on it.
Regarding the flywheel - what does recoating mean. I am guessing turning it or resurfacing it. If they are using those terms (recoating, main bearing), it seems like they don't know what they are talking about (service advisor?). Hopefully the mechanic does.
My local dealer was very quick to say I needed a new clutch at about $800 when the pedal was squeaking. 2 years later a retaining spring broke on the disk and I had it replaced (not at the dealer). The disk was only worn about 30% from new. The car had about 75K miles on it.
Inconsistent engagement? Do you think it could be a master or slave cylinder problem. The M/C on integras are notorious for leaking. That may be the problem. I would think the only non warranty thing related to the clutch would be worn disk. The symptom of that would be slipping (high revs or slipping in 4th or 5th gear).
The other common problem would be broken spring retainers. That would lead to engagement problems but is a terminal problem. You would have known and they would have seen that . The only other thing I can think of would be some sort of oil / grease contamination on the disk / flywheel / pressure plate.
I tend to think they missed something. Might be hard to find / prove at this point. Regardless of the cause or fault, if you have the transmission pulled off you might as well replace it with the clutch of your choice.
The other common problem would be broken spring retainers. That would lead to engagement problems but is a terminal problem. You would have known and they would have seen that . The only other thing I can think of would be some sort of oil / grease contamination on the disk / flywheel / pressure plate.
I tend to think they missed something. Might be hard to find / prove at this point. Regardless of the cause or fault, if you have the transmission pulled off you might as well replace it with the clutch of your choice.
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The tech said he looked at the master/slave cylinders and didn't see any leaking... He said the flywheel and throwout bearing were worn, but somehow I don't think that would create an inconsistancy, just a different overall feeling, but still it wouldn't change from shift to shift.
I'm just worried that I'm going to spend a lot of money on a new clutch and if that's not the problem, I just got screwed; paying for something I don't need. Then they'll claim that the problem is due to the new clutch and once again, i get screwed over by the dealership.
[Modified by SoCal ITR, 11:44 AM 2/13/2003]
I'm just worried that I'm going to spend a lot of money on a new clutch and if that's not the problem, I just got screwed; paying for something I don't need. Then they'll claim that the problem is due to the new clutch and once again, i get screwed over by the dealership.
[Modified by SoCal ITR, 11:44 AM 2/13/2003]
Can you describe the inconsistency?
Sorry I didn't see the other post. Did the mechanic tell you the thickness of the disk? That really does not sound like the problem. The release (throwout) bearing would not cause that either I don't think. Problem would have to be air in lines, master or slave cylinder, or something with pressure plate springs. I would be suprised if those weren't covered under warranty. Offer them this - you buy the disk and bearing and they pay for labor and pressure plate. Since the tranny is off you may as well go on and replace them. If it isn't fixed at least you have a new clutch. Due to the $ involved you may want to try to take it higher up with Acura. Print the thread - it may help. I would think non warranty abuse symptoms would be excess wear on disk or warped / distorted pressure plate or flywheel. They should have checked all of that.
Sounds kinda hokey to me on the flywheel. I just had mine resurfaced at a local machine shop for $20. Looked like new when I got it back. Replaced the pilot bearing (in the flywheel) for ~$15 and got an OEM clutch for $300 from Baranco Acura. I would have opted for another clutch since my clutch disc failed this last time and the pressure plate was slowly dying as well, but the damn SCCA has rules against that!!!
In any event, I think the dealer is off the mark on the flywheel for sure. The clutch is probably fubared and needs replaced, the flywheel most likely is fine and just needs cleaned up before installing the new clutch.
And like you I would have had a coronary if I was told it was going to cost $928 to get my clutch fixed.
In any event, I think the dealer is off the mark on the flywheel for sure. The clutch is probably fubared and needs replaced, the flywheel most likely is fine and just needs cleaned up before installing the new clutch.
And like you I would have had a coronary if I was told it was going to cost $928 to get my clutch fixed.
Chris, get a hold of OLDSKOOL_REX (Marcus - https://honda-tech.com/zerouser?cmd=...e&id=999311312). He has some GREAT clutches that he can sell you locally. He is VERY local to you too. My friend and I have bought 2 clutches from to put in CTR and 4.785FDR trannies and they rock. You can get a 6 puck Sprung hub for like 290ish.
As far as the flywheel goes, they can resurface it but they dont want to. They would rather make the money off the part than screw with the labor. Its just like my shop, if I see a problem on the car, its either a BLACK or WHITE kind of thing. Its OUT or its IN. No in between.
I dont like to fuggle with "maybe good" parts.
BTW, Marcus can get you a great price on Flywheels.
[Modified by Migs, 2:35 PM 2/13/2003]
As far as the flywheel goes, they can resurface it but they dont want to. They would rather make the money off the part than screw with the labor. Its just like my shop, if I see a problem on the car, its either a BLACK or WHITE kind of thing. Its OUT or its IN. No in between.
I dont like to fuggle with "maybe good" parts.
BTW, Marcus can get you a great price on Flywheels.
[Modified by Migs, 2:35 PM 2/13/2003]
Now that I think about it, it doesn't make any sense that they are going to charge you just because they found nothing. If you specified that there was inconsistent clutch engagment, and they offered to take a look at it, then why on earth are they going to charge you.
I've heard of many lousy Acura dealers and I'm happy that I've found Metro Acura, because they would never try and pull a stunt like this.
Chris, I'd suggest you sit down with the service manager and have a good talk about how you should not have to pay for anything because there is an actual problem with the car. Its their fault they looked in the wrong location for it.
I've heard of many lousy Acura dealers and I'm happy that I've found Metro Acura, because they would never try and pull a stunt like this.
Chris, I'd suggest you sit down with the service manager and have a good talk about how you should not have to pay for anything because there is an actual problem with the car. Its their fault they looked in the wrong location for it.
Chris, I think the are full of ****.. I personally don't trust any dealers. You never know if they're giving you the TRUTH. The are out to make money. Also, it can be hit or miss with the tech who does the install. You can get someone who knows his stuff, or someone who knows jack ****. The above members have given you good advice. Do some pricing. If you want an OEM clutch then buy it from Baranco Acura. Also, is it too expensive to have a REPUTABLE performance shop do the clutch install for you? Someone like Import Builders? I would trust someone like them over a dealer anyday.. Good luck..
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