First off, is anyone running this combo? Irvin, im not sure but I think you said you were going to OBD1 when we talked on Sunday?

My main question is, does the 2 come with any form of Vtec control? On the site it says that the 2 doesnt, but i distinctly remember my friends 2b system coming with all the features the hondata site says comes on the 3b. I have another friend with the 2b, and he has vtec control as well. I dont need the shift light or any other features for that matter, all i want is the basic hondata and vtec controls...do I have to get the 3 or can I get away with the 2?

TIA

-Todd

 

my interpertation... you can have the hondata tuner tune a vtec point with the stage 2. but the stage 3 is adjustable by the user

 

I'm running non obd Count Blah and with regards to the type of hondata...I'll find out tomorrow. I'm scheduled to see Lawrence at about 10'ish. I'll post the results. I wonder if having a VAFC would screw the tuning? I guess I'll find out as well.

 

Ok Count, went to DynoSpot yesterday and they installed a stage 2 Hondata on my nonobd PR3...they couldnt tune it though because I'm getting a TPS code on my ecu...we replaced the sensor and calibrated but still getting the code. they adviced me to get it fixed then come back for dynotuning to save $$ on the $185 per hour charge. They ran my car once on the machine and it registered at 164 whp at 7500 rpm. For some reason, my PR3 shuts of at that rpm and with the TPS throwing a code, the ECU doesnt recognize full throttle and makes the car run lean on high rpm...I'm taking my car to the shop tomorrow or this weekend so I can get the TPS issue taken care of and reschedule for dynotuning on Monday and hopefully get better numbers than 164...at least 185-195 whp.

 

I just got my hondata 2b in the other day. I say ask Kyle, aka 2k_Teg. He's a hondata dealer and knows his stuff. I would like to know the answer to this though. I was under the impression that it wasn't possible without the 3.

 

Did you check the TPS voltage with your VAFC? If memory serves me correctly it should read around 4.5V at WOT and .5V at idle. (I think ) Hurry up and get that thing retuned, im really excited to see what kind of #s you can make! Also, do you have any insight as far as my original VTEC question, being as how you own the exact one I want to get!


TIA

-Todd

 

yeah, about programmability, you can reset Vtec without a VAFC on Hondata, but I guess without the software, you're tied up paying whatever DSR charges...Anyway, I'm selling my VAFC once I take care of this tps issue. I'll try to get it fixed this weekend and hopefully take it to lawrence on Monday for tuning...164 whp is really disappointing...but my friends semi stock B16 was dynoed at 138 whp then came out to 160 whp after Lawrence played with it...he had about 10.5 compression and ctr cams.

 

Keepin this one alive, im sure a few of you guys are interested in the PR3 version of the Hondata and seeing what it can do for us.

Ordered my Hondata Stage 2 from Adam @ Modacar today, cam gears and test pipe should arrive this week, tuning hopefully set for next week....180+WHP here I come

-Todd

 

Ok, fixed the TPS but now have a couple of codes, 9 and 23...knock sensor is no bigge but the Cylinder Position sensor...I need to replace my distributor. No wonder my tach jumps around after 4K. I am looking for a non obd B16 dizzy but in the meantime, I'll try to swap the internals from my 91 LS distributor and make it work and hopefully thats it so I can get this car tuned...see ya on Sunday.

 

I remember seeing new ones on ebay very recently, try there. Also, someone posted a site on a place that would rebuild them at a reasonable price, im pretty sure it was in this forum, might want to search under distributor or something.

-Todd

 

you can buy odb0 distributers from hmotorsonline for like $150.

 

hey ef_lsvtec...you say your tach jumps after 4k rpms? does it show that it jumps on the vafc too? cuz my tach jumps around like crazy, but on my vafc its normal. Lemme know man. thanks

 

it jumps on my cluster but not on my vafc... I thought it was just the connection on my ecu, but my mechanic says that my distributor is going soon. I drove my car last night and it started to run really bad at high rpm (above 4K)so i left it at home today...My ecu code says 23 (Cylinder position sensor) and I started to swap my non obd ls dizzy to fix it last night but didnt have the funny looking star screw driver to open it up...I'll fix it tonight and let you know.

 

a jumping tach needle usually means ignitor problems. take it to autozone and have them test it for you.

 

It is the igniter...

 

i have 2 0bd0 distributors--i don't know if you (ef ls vtec) would want one, as you are planning on swapping to obd1 soon, correct?

 

I actually just found one last night and my car's rolling again. It's amazing how much stronger the motor feels right now. I'm going to see lawrence (Dynospot) tonight at 4pm to finish my dyno-tuning... I've decided to stay non obd, because of how much i've spent so far on Hondata etc...or until I get bored, hehe...I can take one of those dizzy's for spare if they're ok...How much you want? I paid $130 for the ones i picked up last night in San Mateo. (w/ busted igniter)


[Modified by EF_LSVtec, 1:21 PM 2/21/2003]

 

Dang, I just came from Dynospot...had excellent results, 191.9 whp and 137 torque, then on my way home, freaking distributor died again. Motor wouldnt rev pass 3000 rpm. So guys anyone have a spare B16 distributor in the Bay Area let me know asap...Cell: 415-699-1797, I'll pick it up tonight or tomorrow

 

very very nice #s....ok post the dyno sheet up!! Or at least bring it with u this sunday, i really want to take a look at it. I came across some very disconcerning information about the PR3 Hondata and I want to see if it affected your air fuel ratio at all.

-Todd

 

I'm stranded at my sister's house in SSF and I'm trying to get my car to start. Anyway, I'll try to post my dynosheet tomorrow or tonight when I get home. It looks like racing on Sunday is looking grim right now. I'll stop by and watch though...

Again, anyone here with a spare B16 distributor pls hit me up...

 

Here ya go...


FYI, my car still wouldnt start...

 

Well i decided to go ahead and pick it up, gonna install and tune it next week



-Todd

 

I'm ordering an obd1 jumper too on Monday. I think you're right about the PR3 codes w/ Hondata and its causing all this mayhem w/ my dizzy

 

Correction, I found the problem causing my distributor to fail and Hondata has nothing to do with it...thought I'd post this, seeing that you also ordered one for your PR3...

 

i would strongly recommend anyone with a 4g and wanting to use hondata, to upgrade
to 92-95 spec ecu setup. The PR3/PW0 has so many shortcomings its really
not worth messing with. not to mention finding distributors is getting harder and
harder these days.