CEL light on a a pre obd b16 with pr3 ecu
i'm getting a code six (water temp sensor) from a pr3 ecu with my b16a1 pre obd. the code is for a faulty tw sensor but the wiring is correct (checked by a honda technician) and it ohms out to the correct ohm.
we took the ecu out and on the outside it has it's code with a pr3 ecu. it has some kind of board attached to it. heres some pics. i need to get this fixed as it's causing the engine to run in limp mode. anyone have any ideas on how to fix this?
serial #'s on the ecu are as follows 37820-pr3-j50
also has a stamp on it saying "denshingiken"
any help here would be appreciated. i want this car up and running before my turbo kit gets here.
[Modified by 2k2silvertype-s, 8:07 AM 2/11/2003]
we took the ecu out and on the outside it has it's code with a pr3 ecu. it has some kind of board attached to it. heres some pics. i need to get this fixed as it's causing the engine to run in limp mode. anyone have any ideas on how to fix this?
serial #'s on the ecu are as follows 37820-pr3-j50
also has a stamp on it saying "denshingiken"
any help here would be appreciated. i want this car up and running before my turbo kit gets here.
[Modified by 2k2silvertype-s, 8:07 AM 2/11/2003]
If I was you I would go to the http://www.hyperducktuning.com site and email "adrian" he might know what's up?
i wish i had another pr3 ecu to work. is this the correct model ecu though? the motor itself is pre obd so i'm assuming this is the only ecu that will work?
plug in any 90-1 ecu that MPFI (such as PM6/7/PR4) if the code appears then check the harness for continuity. the sensor might be fine but harness can be torn or broken
the board your pointing is a knock sensor board
the board your pointing is a knock sensor board
Are you running it on an HF model?
If you are you have to cut wire B9, should be a blue kinda wire Its right in the middle of the second plug.
Sal
If you are you have to cut wire B9, should be a blue kinda wire Its right in the middle of the second plug.
Sal
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Are you running it on an HF model?
If you are you have to cut wire B9, should be a blue kinda wire Its right in the middle of the second plug.
Sal
If you are you have to cut wire B9, should be a blue kinda wire Its right in the middle of the second plug.
Sal
so i got another ECU and we are going to try it out today. how do i know if my ECU is for an auto or a manual? will that really matter?
how do i know for sure. can anyone confirm that, i have another ecu and it has different code on the outside but has the same AT. we are going to try it out today.
how do i know for sure. can anyone confirm that, i have another ecu and it has different code on the outside but has the same AT. we are going to try it out today.
Scroll down to the Hyperducktuning pic: It'll show the correct resistor for AT/MT.
bump
i just got another pr3 ecu, if the cel still comes on then what do i do?
i just got another pr3 ecu, if the cel still comes on then what do i do?
jsut cause it checks out OK with a multimeter does not mean it is OK.
i cant believe that no-one else has suggested this...
t..
dude u have an auto ecu.
The board is normal. My ecu has the letters "At" on it to, but its a manual ecu. I called Steve from hmotors and he said, if the serial number on the ecu is low, that means its a manual. And if its high its an automatic ( or vise versa ). If your not throwing a code 19 ( Lock Up Control Solenoid ) right when you start your car up then you have a manual ecu. Also the coolant temperature switch can be switched with the switch right by it. So make sure you have the right switch on it. You would think if you had 2 switches mixed up, you would throw 2 codes but thats not always the case. Make sure the right switch it hooked up to the water temp sensor.
[Modified by 90blackcrx, 11:47 AM 3/17/2003]
[Modified by 90blackcrx, 11:47 AM 3/17/2003]
good suggestions but it turns out that it was a bad ecu. the original ecu that was causing the code had been flashed and apparantly someone had done something wrong to it. there is no more code with the new ecu.
auto pr3's don't throw lock up solenoid codes
just look on the side if it says AA its a stick if it says AB its an auto.
just look on the side if it says AA its a stick if it says AB its an auto.
[Modified by 90blackcrx, 3:10 PM 3/18/2003]
auto pr3's don't throw lock up solenoid codes
just look on the side if it says AA its a stick if it says AB its an auto.
just look on the side if it says AA its a stick if it says AB its an auto.
Yes I read your post, I am just intrested why an auto pr3's don't throw lock up solenoid codes if the solenoid wire is not hooked up ?
I would say 70% of the guys with swaps are running auto pr3s and don't know it because it doesn't throw that code. The motor will run fine but will cut out early around 7800 but I forgot exactly what the # . Otherwise if you don't ever use a 5spd ecu then you won't know the diff.
That is why people started to open them up...right...they wouldn't be doing that if it threw a code.
[Modified by 89civicdx, 6:40 AM 3/20/2003]
That is why people started to open them up...right...they wouldn't be doing that if it threw a code.
[Modified by 89civicdx, 6:40 AM 3/20/2003]
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