Hi, I'm just wondering what is the redline for LS integra? Is it 6300 or is it 6500 or something else? Is it different for manuals and automatics? thanks

 

its like 5000

 

wtf... it can't be. the specs for stock LS is 142bp @ 6300 rpm. It's either 6300 rpm or higher b/c my tech shows redline at 7000 rpm but it's an aftermarket one and I saw pictures of stock tech redlining alittle above 6500rpm. If ppl don't know please don't guess.

 

That just means it's max power comes at 6300 rpm... The actual redline or revlimiter is about 7100 rpm... That's what I take my car to at least... HTH...

 

Thanks man, but from what pictures I saw... redline starts from 6900 rpm. Aren't you suppose to shift right on or before you hit red line? Or does it just depend on the driver?

 

ya 5000 is really low for any 4 cylinder car most 4 bangers redline in6100 to 7000. b/c thats where 4 cyl make all there power is at high rpm b/c it has a longer spark intervals.

 

it was a joke guys. calm down please.

 

redline is 6800 on b18b1

 

Fuel cutoff is 7100rpm.

 

so if i'm dynoing my car, do I shift it at redline or do I shift it at fuel cutoff?

 

Shift??? in your sig it says you have an auto! why would you need to shift if you got and auto??

 

that's how u dyno a car. U shift it in each gear like you do with stick. D1, d2 , d3, etc. When I dyno my car I shift around 6500 rpm so next time I'll shift it around 6900 to 7100 rpm to get an accurate hp to rpm ratio.

 

haha i got it! and being an ls owner, it damn sure seems true


[Modified by lshobo, 7:41 AM 2/10/2003]

 

With an auto, the objective is to get in third gear as quick as possible. In third gear, go WOT and wait to you hit the fuel cutoff, then realease the throttle.

Shadowdawn dynod his own auto teg.

 

When I dyno my car I had to press a button for each time I shift. On stick that's a lot ezier but on auto, we have to shift it in each gear. We cant just go d3 all the way b/c it wont give a hi enough rpm. Therefore using 1 to reline, then 2 to reline, and finally d3 to reline and shutting her down.

 

mine was redline at 6500 and fuel cut was 6800

 

You have a turbo integra, but don't know the redline?

 

Don't mean to **** on your parade but thats false, at a dyno with auto you put it in D3, step on the gas, once it hits third just throttle it up to redline, there is NO point to shift it manually, more room for human error, and on a dyno its just pointless.

6900 is technically our redline and 7100 is fuel cutoff, however are autos will shift at no higher then 69xx no matter what, which is good and bad, good because we can't hit our fuel cut off (REALLY dont wanna hit that when boosting hard with turbo for even a split second). Bad because, well thats obvious.

Btw same goes for the track, keep it in d3 and get your launching technique down, no stupid shifting it yourself, just keep it at WOT and remember the stock tach is off by a few hundred rpms when its in the high rpm band (off as in it reads higher then it actually is, so 7100rpms is really like 6800 normally at least for my car.)

 

Sup Eric, ya I remember you telling me to just leave it in D3 all the way for the dyno. But at the place where I dynoed the car, they just shifted in each gear and rev it to around 6500rpm before switching gears up to d3. I guess later on i'll just leave it on d3 like you recommanded and see if I get better numbers. My A/F ratio really sucks and I'm already around -44% hi/lo around 5-7rpm. Not sure if I'll be able to get around 12 even with the hack. Hey, when ever u get a chance to redyno your car look me up and maybe you can see what I might be doing wrong with my afc settings.


-Danny

 

I don't understand why you can't tune your car to a good ratio, its confusing to me. I doubt you will get better numbers, its just purely pointless to shift like they did thats all, the shifting won't affect your numbers. I'd be more then happy to share my experiences next time I goto the dyno.

 

agreed!

 

dude, he came in soo rich it wouldnt even read, he was in the 9's, we got him evetually into mid -high 11's mid range and low 11-high 10's up top , hes got wayy ytoo much fuel and the vafc will only do soo much for him .
get a stadnalone and we could got you there in 10 min rather thna 2 hrs and could got you better than what you left with.

 

Sup Pete, ya I would consider using the hondata but the problem is that they don't work right with automatics and I'm not willing to spend 900 dollars unless it's a sure thing. Beside, I heard it takes twice as long to tune a hondata but I could be wrong. If you actually found a place that knows how to tune a hondata then I might consider it as the last option if I can't tune my a/f ratio any better with my afc.

 

my friend Boosted Hybrid tunes mine . he'be there with us at the dyno day working on mine again for full power. . . well if that doesnt work what about AEM ? i dunno man , vafc hacks are **** and are a headache and limited to what you can do , Hondata 's take a little longer beucase you have to burn chips, but trust me, on the dyno we could gotten where your car was in 2 hrs , in 10-15 min with a hondata ,

 

Ya, I believe that.. afc is just a guessing game, a little fuel here and there. I was also looking into the AEM but they only make it for stick. I wish there was acutally someone out there with an automatic and an older version of hondata (2b) on their car. I believe 2b will work with automatics but do I still use an automatic obd1 ecu or a stick ecu? Anyway, did you get your hondata tuned yet? I'm really curious in the hp and torque for your car. Also, do you know which day Nate is trying to set for another dyno day? I might just give it one more shot.