I'm probly gonna be buying another mod for my car soon... but I have NO idea what to get. You can see my mods underneath.


I'm running STOCK Intake Manifold with GS-R AEM CAI.
I'm running STOCK cat. converter with a USDM DC Sports 4-1 Header.
I'm running STOCK valvetrain with STOCK Redline.

With that in mind, let me know what you think I should get next for my car, and your reason. Thanks alot. Appreciate it!

 

is it already tuned? Um if you got stock compression, you could always get a thin head gasket or racing valves to up the cr and tune that thing. Then get the valvetrain and up the redline. By the way, your video is honestly one of the sweetest vtec videos I have! You should make some more!!!

 

I would upgrade the valvetrain and raise the redline. Since you've got those headers and cams, you've got more power past stock redline, so you should use all you can

 

I agree, might wanna consider that skunk2 IM with type-r 3" CAI, after the valve train update... Im pretty sure the stock GSR IM is holding some hidden power in there..

 

I'd complete the whole exhaust system just to get that out of the way...

 

driving lessons

 

What is there to tune? Do you mean a tune-up cause he has nothing that is adjustable (i.e. cam gears or FPR)? And how do "racing valves" up the CR? Yes, a thinner head gasket will raise it, but you said "or", so that implies that valves will raise it alone. Please explain.

 

oh damn skunk2nr --- well ill tell you what. i put in my kenji ecu last night, and holy god...im not sure what to tell you except...get the valvetrain, and ecu.

im running stock intake manifold right now, and you hardly lose any low end power with the secondaries open all the time (running kenji's p28)...so i highly reccomend, seeing as we have a similar (identical) setup, to get the skunk valvetrain and ecu. period.

 

that header? its a USDM dc 4 to 1..the car might make power past the redline, but it might not be linearly positive...it might just plateau after stock redline....i would definitely open up the exhaust side of things w/ a dc JDM 4 to 1 and a 2.5 cat by SMSP.

 

and definetly look into getting a cat.

If you want the JDM 4-1 (ie: 2.5" collector), you might want to consider getting a larger catback as well.

Otherwise you will be going from 2.5" collector, to a 2.5" cat (hopefully you replace this too, and not run the 2" stock cat) to a 60mm exhaust.

If anything you want to get larger the further from the engine, which will help prevent reverse exhaust flow.

But at this point I say either a highflow cat (2.25" ID) or driving lessons/suspension.

 

 

Fuzzy Dice or really big stickers all over your car.

 

If you read my Signature, you can see that I have Skunk2 Cam Gears, VAFC, and a B&M FPR. Very adjustable...

 

What size piping is ur Tanabe?

 

 

I was told its a 60mm pipe size... around 2.36 inches??

 

First off, if you read his sig, he has adjustable cam gears.... Anyways if you've ever looked at the stock valves, you would notice that they have a slight bowl in it. Racing valves are flat, which ups the compression. Here is a picture to show you the regular valves with the bowl in it, and the racing flat vavles which up the compression.

 

I'm not sure how much of a difference it'd make...but I like the idea of 2.5'' all the way through.

-Rod

 

don't go withthe ti retainers the heads mushroom and also require a valve adjustment every 5-10,000 miles. i would suggest getting your stock set of steel retainers nitrade coated. this will allow you to take the car up to about 9000 rpm but not all day long. i've read and heard too many stories about retainers causing spring bind and bent valves because the retainer shifts around. ti is not a good metal to use in an engine if it is a daily driver. it you were runing a race engine then i coudl see it but as far as my personal preference goes i am sticking with stock retainers. you should go for the intake manifold and aem CAI. you can get the 2.5" header and cat later because the 2.5 to 2.36 would cause a bottleneck which would dampend the performance of ht eexhaust peices. you'll needa full 2.5 from the collector of the headar back tot he exhaust. at the smae time you do the skunk manifold get a hold of one of those hondata gaskets. it would be worth it in my opinion because it drastically reduces the air's temperature going into the block. hope that helps

 

and those valves won't do anything for the upper block until you get it ported and polished which is why the skunk2 valves are slightly larger than stock. they are meant for a larger ported valve hole than stock and won't line up properly.

 

If you want to continue on the path you are going...I would swap out the DC header for a JDM 4-1 and get a 2.5'' carsound, w/ your choice of exhaust depending on what you like.

 

What combo would I get the most gains out of??

 

i saw get the IM, and hold the deep engine work for later

 

i wouldnt really call valvesprings and retainers "deep" engine work....exhaust and cat is DEFINITELY not deep engine work.

 

I think I'm gonna get the Skunk2 Intake Manifold first. No matter what, I would need that sooner or later, so I want to get that and get it out of the way.

My last step would be Valvesprings and Retainers since I would NEED Tuning after that.


In order to save some money, I guess i'll take these steps.


1. Skunk2 IM, ITR CAI
2. JDM 4-1 Header, 2.5" inch cat.
3. Skunk2 Valvesprings, Retainers, and ECU
4. Dyno Tuning.