Long story short my old LS block had A LOT of miles on it and it was time for a rebuild. I had the LS/Vtec conversion for a while and it ran great but wasn't everything that I thought it would be, so this winter I have made a few upgrades.

First I bought a low mileage LS block to replace the old worn out piece. I had JE Forged pistons installed 11.5:1 intalled.

The pistons are connected with Eagle Rods:

Above you can see the balancing marks on the crank since the rotating assembly was fully balanced.
All of this is mated with a Integra Type R flywheel:

I had the GSR cylinder head cleaned up a bit with new valve guides and valve job.


I cleaned up my old RS*R header that i have been using:

And here is a shot of the car and all the parts:

The front end is sitting a little high because the motor is gone..duh

later.

 

Those edges on the pistons still look sharp to me.

 

Anybody know what the ARP bolts on the Eagle rods are supposed to be torqued to?....thanks.

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=236258

But, don't simply take his word for it. I'd call Eagle or even GE to get the maximum torque specs and optimum rod bolt stretch.

 

Yeah the numbers i have been finding are 30 ft lbs. that is what they are put at right now.

thanks

 

mmm yummy... I'd love to assemble and work on a nice clean motor out of the car. But oh well, looks like fun.

 

 

looks sweet

someone is going to have a nice spring

 

Damn, that's sweet. Wish I had someone to work with and do some
serious engine tuning..

 

how did you clean your header like that i have a DC sports stainless header and i want to clean in

 

how well do LS blocks hold up without a vtec head with high compression like that?

good hp numbers & high end?

 

I used a technique called wet sanding...

if you are not familiar with it, it is really simple. I just used wet/dry sandpaper 1000-2500 grit and kept a hose with water running while i sanded it to remove the metal that was coming off. Before you start soak the sand paper for about 2 mins and then get ready to use some elbow grease. It took me about 4-5 hours of sanding and then i put a little metal polish on it to help seal it up and make it really shine.

 

The block itself should have no problems as long as I stay NA and no turbo. More than likely you would want sleeves or a block guard for a high psi turbo system.

I really don't see why there would be any problems with non vtec high compression motor. You just would need some real cams to get some nice power with the compression. I don't have cams yet but hope to find a good set soon.

I also have ordered a set of head studs from ARP to make sure everything stays in place if i decide to add some more "juice" later.

 

Oh ok, i wasnt sure if you would still produce nice numbers without extra help from vtec..

But anyway gl man

 

how much did all that cost you?

 

nice work

 

Looks like you were pretty busy this winter...Looks really good. Give yourself a pat on the back for your buildup. Do me a favor, after the motor is broken in, get that thing to a dyno and report back the number to HT.

 

i call it the money pit for a reason.

machine work...balancing, installing pistons, rings and rods, cleaning, specing the measurements, decking cylinder head, valve job, valve guides and all new gaskets
-$650

parts...pistons:500
rods:300
VAFC:250
flywheel/clutch package:150
AEM fuel riser: forget.
B&M fuel gauge: forget.

motor removal: free.
motor installation and reassembly: free

 

trust me, i'll have it all back here on H-T for you guys. i'll just need to find a place that can tune this with the VAFC and AEM FPR. Any suggestions in the Atlanta area?


[Modified by Four Door LS VTEC, 11:11 PM 2/6/2003]

 

damn, someones been puttin in work dis winter. can't wait 2 see those numbers!

 

Make sure you use that grey molly compound on the head studs. Cover those with the moly compound. And torque them to the ARP specks. Not original specs, they should be on the orignal package.

 

let us know how the motor runs when you finish. I want to get a spare b16 bottom end and build it out side the car myself, I think it would be a good positive project.

 

Check out Balancedperformance.com . I haven't been there yet but I am going to have my car dynoed there soon. I'm pretty sure they can fine tune your VAFC. I'll can let you know for sure but it will have to be after Mar. 8th because thats when I'm going there.

 

I have heard pretty good things about Balanced performance...they seem to be the place around here. Hopefully everything will be pulled together by next weekend so that the break-in process can begin.

 

I've also heard good things about balanced performance, I know there is a shop in Smyrna with a dyno, but I've heard that there not that good at tuning as they used to be. I can't remember what the name is though sorry