Rounded off tensioner bolt?
I'd appreciate any help on this...
I'm lookin at an '88 CRX Si, which i'd really like to pick up. Only problem is, the owner took the car to Honda to be emissions tested, and they told her she needed a new timing belt cause it wasn't sitting well. They can't remove it to replace it, because the tensioner bolt is ROUNDED off. Honda was the last ones to mess with this... They told her it would be quite expensive, so she didn't do anything. Her boyfriend (who i'm dealing with), called a local shop, and they told him they'd fix it for around $180CAD.
What do you think? Is this an expensive fix, or just what he told me? A $180 job...
Thanks for the read!
Really appreciate it
*Edit: I also forgot... this is a ZC so what timing belt would I buy?? Thanks again
[Modified by slr, 12:24 PM 2/6/2003]
I'm lookin at an '88 CRX Si, which i'd really like to pick up. Only problem is, the owner took the car to Honda to be emissions tested, and they told her she needed a new timing belt cause it wasn't sitting well. They can't remove it to replace it, because the tensioner bolt is ROUNDED off. Honda was the last ones to mess with this... They told her it would be quite expensive, so she didn't do anything. Her boyfriend (who i'm dealing with), called a local shop, and they told him they'd fix it for around $180CAD.
What do you think? Is this an expensive fix, or just what he told me? A $180 job...
Thanks for the read!
Really appreciate it

*Edit: I also forgot... this is a ZC so what timing belt would I buy?? Thanks again
[Modified by slr, 12:24 PM 2/6/2003]
I stripped mine, still never got it off. I had to reset my cam gear. I know replacing it isn't too hard have access to it while replacing the belt in normal circumstance, remove the crank pulley, timing belt cover, loosen driver side motor mount, slide belt off reverse for install. Now the tensioner is right under the cover, they may have to pull the motor to get some thing there that can extract it, drill a hole in the bolt and use a bolt extractor, then replace with the new one. Just cann't get a drill between the motor and front inner fender thats the bitch of it
If you remove the motor mount on that side and drop the engine down with a jack you can get a drill to that bolt. It's still not an easy bolt to drill though.
grind some new sides onto it.. that doesnt work then get out the sawzall and cut the bitch off. then u gotta get the stud outta the block.. woo
uhm can i ask how u guys round off heads on bolts. with metric bolts the socket fits so tite i have never done it in my life.. or are you using the wrong socket?
uhm can i ask how u guys round off heads on bolts. with metric bolts the socket fits so tite i have never done it in my life.. or are you using the wrong socket?
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When I stripped mine I had the rachet on it at an angle, it was my fault it stripped, but I did as you suggested, tried to cut a new head on the bolt, that didn't work so I cut it off. The stud came out very easily with some vice grips.
Overtightened it in the first place and used a 12pt socket that come to find out was cracked and stripped itself and it rounded it too bad with that one fatal slip....
HAHAHAHAHAHAAHAHA!!!!
i did that like a month ago!!! it ******* sucked!!! so funny!!!!
i used a dremal tool and cut a new edge on it and took vice grips and grabs on it as hard as i ******* could. and it came off. damn that was a pain in the ***!!!
i did that like a month ago!!! it ******* sucked!!! so funny!!!!
i used a dremal tool and cut a new edge on it and took vice grips and grabs on it as hard as i ******* could. and it came off. damn that was a pain in the ***!!!
If everything else fails, you could drill a hole into the side of the head, then stick a screw driver threw it and turn. I saw someone do it this way.
I had this exact problem this week
But I just used a bolt extractor and it came right out. Was the easiest way to get the thing off and I then happened to have another one of the bolts around so hopefully next time that one doesn't strip.
But I just used a bolt extractor and it came right out. Was the easiest way to get the thing off and I then happened to have another one of the bolts around so hopefully next time that one doesn't strip.
Overtightened it in the first place and used a 12pt socket that come to find out was cracked and stripped itself and it rounded it too bad with that one fatal slip....
[Modified by TurboB16aEG, 9:55 AM 2/24/2003]
actually goto sears,
they make this sweet *** tool that goes onto stripped bolts, anyways it cuts through the bolt and makes it easy to undo. i will try to find a picture of it, its made by craftsmen.
check it out
http://www.sears.com/sr/product/summ...id=00952160000
they make this sweet *** tool that goes onto stripped bolts, anyways it cuts through the bolt and makes it easy to undo. i will try to find a picture of it, its made by craftsmen.
check it out
http://www.sears.com/sr/product/summ...id=00952160000
Word, use Craftsman bolt out. It has like metal blades inside them that dig into the bolt. I had to use it to take off completely stripped nuts from my Brothers Mazda and it worked great! Beware though as the bolt-outs fit into sockets, they aren't sockets themselves, so make sure you have a big enough socket for it.
Same thing happend to me, i think its a 21 mm bolt for the 14mm bolt out, and the tensioner is 14mm ,you can open the package at sears and find the one that fits.
oh thats cool my girlfiend works at sears....sweet i thought only mac or snap on had them....thanks
[Modified by TurboB16aEG, 11:03 PM 2/26/2003]
[Modified by TurboB16aEG, 11:03 PM 2/26/2003]
I got the bolt off...i took the motor out of the car (rebuilding anyway) and beat a 13mm on it and put a BIG jack handle on the wrench and it broke it loose...
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