Trying to change timing belt on a Honda. Anything I should know in advance? Any tricks or tools that I should have? I know that I need to change water pump while I'm at it...

-Sean

 

change the tensioner as well

 

How about tips on how to line up the new belt?
I remember missing a tooth each time I did the timing belt on my civic even though I thought I line it up exactly.

 

I have Helms, but could some of the professionals guide us through step-by-step? Thanks.

 

Honda crank pulley bolts suck. A good tip is to warm up the engine, and then immediately attack the crank pulley bolt while it's warm.

I also like to index the old belt against the camshaft pulleys. When you remove the old belt, hold it up against the new one, and make the same index marks on the new belt. This way you don't have to worry about mis-aligning the teeth.

 

Good tip.

Might take it somewhere and have them hit it with an air gun.

Trey

 

Belt misalignment and the resulting timing marks misalignment is a result of not having the timing marks properly aligned in the first place.

Viewing angle can be very deceiving. Look at the marks straight on and level, or use known reference points. Kinda like misinterpreting the meniscus in chem lab.

 

make sure you use a OEM honda belt or a very high quality after market belt, no NAPA crap. And yes, i would do the waterpump while you are at it (NEW)...

 

This is a very good tip. If I would have marked the new belt against the old belt, it would have made things so much easier. My dad and I would line everything up and get the belt on with the TDC marks all correct and then rotated the belt CCW and then somehow the timing marks were off. It took us a couple of tries to get it right.

 

Sean, I've got some tools and tips for you... too much for me to say right now, but hit me up and I'll give you the details.

Here's when I did mine (by myself I might add...)

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=248455

 

Install a thin headgasket while you're at it.

 

Ya, a timing belt install and headgasket install are closely related

You can always shove a screw driver in the flywheel to keep the crank from turning when removing the crank pulley bolt (requires taking off the metal plate) if you don't have a strong airgun. Also i recommend setting the motor to TDC before removing the old belt. After doing that, lining up the new one shouldn't be a problem what so ever. After doing tons of timing belt installs, one hint i can recommend is having the cams set at TDC, and the crank pulley about an 1/8 turn clockwise to TDC before installing the belt. When you put the belt on, the left side will have slack, when you then set the crank pulley to TDC, it should have the proper tension on the left side, as well as the top. Then the tensioner bolt will take care of the right sides tension.

Also remember not to make the tension to tight. I would replace the water pump while your in there and use some honda-bond for sealant. Your supposed to replace the tensioner pulley, however i never do as i have never once had a problem with it. Plus that pulley is quite expensive and you should save a couple bucks that way. Final not, when lining up the cam gears, use the little hash marks on the outside edges to set them straight. There is also holes in the oil rails on the head that are supposed to be used for lining up the cams as well. Not necessary, but helpful if your uncertain.


[Modified by GZR4DR, 12:57 AM 2/6/2003]

 

I was just going to make a similar reply..

Is it just me, or is there always people saying "you should probably replace _____ while you're at it". lol.

Not that it's a bad thing.. just funny..

 

What does a new headgasket have to do w/a timing belt? You don't have to pull the head when you change the belt.

 

Nope but you have to pull the timing belt to pull the head. See the correlation?

 

One is about an hours worth of work, the other is 3+ hours worth of work. See the correlation?

Also this guy is asking how to change a timing belt, do you think its wise he try and change a headgasket?

 

What is 3 hours if you are down in there anyway is kind of the point. Once you dig in don't stop. Some of you guys kinda miss the sense of humor that goes on with the comments around here.

I was answering his question and Sean (Cosworth) isn't going to do it (headgasket) anyway.

 

I personally think getting a timing belt off and back on right (lined up) is harder than pulling cams and the head. But again just discussion and Sean isn't really asking how he was asking for tips.

 

Im scared to F with my timing belt

Good luck Sean

 

Lots of great tips!

I H-T!

 

You should try it with a piston stop and a degree wheel. Gets me dead-on every time.

I've used it so much, it's becoming a crutch tool, and making it harder for me to just eyeball everything on there.

 

Don't strip the tensioner bolt.

Use a VERY strong impact gun to remove the crank pulley bolt.

Have a Helms manual handy and follow the instructions.

Don't punch yourself in the nuts.

Good luck.

-kenji

 

Never used either. Always eyeballed it. i actually had an easier time with it last night when we replaced my cam seals.

having and being able to use a degre wheel is one thing keeping me from changing my headgasket.

 

http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/timingbelt/tbelt.php

 

I would also replace the crankshaft seal just behind the crankshaft positioning sensor. This is an 8$ part that is worth the piece of mind.