I recently bought this unit , the mods made to my car are , cold air intake + skunk2 stage 2 cams , spoon exhaust manifold + full SS line , no Catalitic converter.
The APEXI is pretty new for me , can any one help me and give me some information on the settings , and installation.

thanks

Douglas

 

your best bet is to take it to a tuner..every motor reacts different to thier mods therefor we cant really tell you what to set anything at to see peak performance..

adaM

 

dont make any positive adjustments and you are fine

 

Please let me know what you mean by positive adjustments ?
By the way , I am fron Belgium an we don't have a tuner around every corner here , not for Japanese cars anyway.
please help

thanks

Douglas

 

you can go + or - in the correction field. dont use + only use -

 

a dyno can help you program your VAFC.

 

Again, question for mr sgT:

Why wouldnt he go positive? DOesnt he need more fuel in certain areas? And other than that, what else would he change other than his VTEC engagement.

<------ HOpes to learn much from sgT-san

 

Most Hondas run rich to begin with. If you add to much fuel, not all the fuel will be combusted, and it will run down the cylinder walls. This will eventually lead to blow by on from the piston rings because it will no longer seal properly. Had a customer that ran his 2000 integra GSR with a straight pipe for about 4 months. He didn't have a harness converter with a OBD1 ecu, so he had a check engine light. Running in limp mode dumps excessive fuel into the combustion chamber which eventually led to blow by on the piston rings.

That should answer your question as to why you should only subtract fuel instead of add fuel until you get on a dyno.

 

try
-1@7000 -2@8000

 

So will reducing fuel add power to your system? I severely doubt that...but when DO you add more fuel? For more fuel intensive upgrades? Like cams? or other internal work?

 

Great advice.

 

Dyno check the A/F ratio and make adjustments from there.

The WOT settings are one thing the part throttel settings are very important as well for daily driving.

If you shelled out the money for cams, vafc and other **** take the time to go to the dyno and tune it to make sure your getting your money's worth.

2 hours may find you some HP and peace of mind. I dont know how much peace of mind is worth to you though

 

Hi,
Thanks for all the relies . WHAT I AM REALY LOOKING FOE IS AND VERY WELL EXPLAINED ANSWER OR WEB-PAGE THAT TELLS ME HOW TO PROGRAM THE APEXI . STEP-BY-STEM. I found such a page on the web but is was in Russian. I am from Europe but I don't speak or understand Russian.
I also will install an air/feul gauge (ATM-4375) and I will go to a DYNA after installation , but I want to learn more abouth that APEXI unit. I Allready know by now to leave the SPOON venturi plate out and I will try to sell it on the internet.
So if any one know where I can finde a step-by-step instructions on the web please let me know.

Thanks

Douglas Verbanck

 

Yes leaning out the mixture will add more power to your car because you are getting a more efficient burn. However you have to worry about predetonation when you do this aka pinging. Put the car on a dyno to properly tune the vehicle. On my setup i was running stock injectors when i made the 216. However i was running at peak duty cycle. I really needed to upgrade to a larger injector. Increasing the fuel pressure generally makes for a better fuel spray into the cumbustion chamber. Remember though, increasing pressure doesn't increase the ammount of fuel being dumped in. Fuel being dumped in is regulated by the injectors. Also running to high of pressure can wear out the fuel pump much faster than it is supposed to wear.

If you were to upgrade to larger cams (Jun, toda, skunk2, etc), then yes i would recommend larger cams to compensate for the increased amount of air you are letting in. I can't remember the optimum air/fuel ratio off the top of my head, but you always want to be at the otimum ratio. Its around 12:1, but i'd have to look it up as i can't remember. This is why you use a dyno and a wideband O2 sensor when you are changing the fuel settings on your car.

 

I think increasing fuel pressure does increase the amount of fuel infected...

When I put my FPR to 58 psi (calculated with the B&M Formula ), I was almost litteraly able to see my fuel gauge decrease as I was driving...

Don't need to say I put it back to 50 psi

 

This guy didn't know he was in limp mode? Isn't the rev limiter 6000 rpm in limp mode?

 

yea the leaner tyou are makes more power, just dont wanna be dangerously lean . . and you will need to richen it up right before vtec more thna likely. mine was maxed out ebfore vtec and still leasner thna the tuner wanted. but my car made great power.
tkae it to a tuner and dont mess w3ith it until its on a wideband .

 

You cannot really add any fuel with an AFC. At WOT the map sensor is at or near
maximum voltage(or 0 vacuum) which means you have no more real adjustment
area left or else the ecu will throw a check engine light citing a bad map sensor.
Instead you have to use an adjustable fuel pressure regulator to increase fuel
pressure and use the afc to back the fuel down where necessary.

 

Doesn't the AFC adjust air flow and not fuel flow?

 

it adjusts map sensor voltage.

on cars with MAF sensors you can go positive without problems.
not on a honda

 

what about adding fuel at partial throttle. mine seemed to do that fine

Brian

 

partial throttle is fine because the vacuum isnt near 0 so you have more room
for adjustment.

 

Remember what I told you ?

 

Thanks for the tip

Looks like the fpr was a good investment

OT: Whats the highest psi setting you can go on a DX fuel pump?

 

not very high. get a fuel pump from a dohc vtec or a walbro