do you guys think that toda b's will do the trick for me??????? i have a 92 hatch si with a b18c, its got jdm itr pistons, 4-1 header, skunk2 IM, and aem cai. My best time so far is a 14.13 with the header , piston and some really bad struts. From what i have heard the B's will sacrifice some low end power for some sweet top end gain. i race the car every weekend and it is a daily driver so i'm wondering if the B's are gonna make my ride gutless on the street and only make power during high rev's when i'm racing. I need some serious info guys so please help me out. tried to search and nothing came up
later
(or should i just get a set of 00/01 itr cams)

 

With the right tuning, you'll get good gains from that cam. but you need more than that. valsprins retainers and a higher rev limit. about 9000rpm.

 

well i'm running a chipped p28 right now which has my vtec crossover at 5000rpm and the rev limit is i think 9500(not sure but i know i have never the limiter with this ecu.) Now in terms of tuning are you suggesting a v-afc or just cam gears????? also from what you have seen do you really think i need to do the valvespring and retainers??? i have type r valvesprings in there right now. thanks for your help

 

With a type B, Toda suggest their own valvesprings. Ti retainers would be great. V-afc is fine. and camgears too.

Friend of mine wrecked his engine because of revving it witout the right parts.

 

I would definately recommend the Toda valvesprings with the "B's". I would also recommend the Toda or PE timing belt with these cams.

 

You can run ITR outter springs and Portflow inners for the spec Bs. THe TODA valve train will be more than ample to work with the Bs, but the ITR outters and Portflow inners will do fine.
As for revlimit, have not seen anyone I have tuned with still gaining power after 8200 RPMs. That has a lot to do with the parts chosen, but just a note that you may not have to take it to 9000 to reach peak power.
As for no low end. I would expect a little more low end than stock. If tuned right, the cams should show a gain across the board.
Tuning, yes, cam gears. V-AFC at the least, a Hondata and slightly larger injectors would be best. Have seen Spec B cars with no cat max out the stock Honda injector with a V-AFC. 310s and an ECU program to go with the setup would be best.
You can get by with stock injectors, ECU and V-AFC and make decent power. But to make the best of them, you need more than the stock ECU/injectors and V-AFC.

Jason

 

16 of the ITR intake side outer springs and portflow inners .. color on springs are gold (as opposed to blue on exhaust side).

with spec B, switch cam around 6300rpm ... you can buy a VAFC whcih is a good investment to fine tune your car on the dyno or if local one of my street wideband tuning sessions (visit gbrtuning.com) ... I can also burn a p28 chip with ~6300 rpm crossover and decent rev limiter and appropriate fuel and timing curves for spec B cams.


greg

 

what are the 310's????

 

310cc injectors.

 

If the Spec B's peak out at 8200 RPM's then what is the best shifting point for drag racing if your ECU cuts out at 9K RPM's?

 

where your ecu's rev limit is has nothing to do with your shifting points.

 

It would if he was making power past 8000 and his revlimit was lower than his peak power point.

After tuning youll see where your making power if its starting to trail off at 8-8200 shift a little higher say 84-8600 to keep you up in the fatter part of your power band and above your VTEC cross-over point.

I would suggest retarding the intake cam a degree and advancing your exhaust cam a few degree's to maintain power past 8000....it may sacrifice a little bottom end response but if your drag racing youll want to make sure your settings are optimized for 6-9K and you stay in that band when racing.

Your tranny will be a major player in this as well. ITR and B16 trannies will drop you from 8K to about 5.6K-6K when shifting at 8K. So you will need to rev higher and shift higher if your power band starts at 6K.

For a stock rev limit Skunk Stage 1's wrok really well. They have a little more duration than CTR's and just a tad more lift. They make more mid range and a little more top end than those cams and run on ITR valvetrain. I would run a standard ITR revlimit (8400/8600) on those cams and shift maybe 100 rpm before fuel cut.

Those cams would feel nice and offer a power band that starts at 45-4800 and tapers off at 78-8200 rpm. With a little more compression they might make power a little higher but they are a really nice street grind IMO.


[Modified by SergEK, 2:45 PM 2/5/2003]

 

I'd go with the Toda B's, portflow innner and itr outer can "do the trick" but the only person I've ever seen with abnormally low hp numbers was using portflow springs with his B's. So i'd go with the Toda springs, and the Toda belt. PE makes it and yes the PE would be just as fine but the two belts are not EXACTLY the same.......

Toda spec B's are not going to make your ride gutless at all. They add more midrange power than almost any cam. Thats the only reason people go for these cams usually, the mid range power.

You can't compare them to 01 itr/ctr cams, that'd just be a joke. Toda spec A's would be alot better than itr's.......and B's?!

 

Who's comparing 01itr/ctr cams to Toda B's?

The Toda A's are almost identical to the Skunk stage 1's
Toda Spec B 12 mm,duration - 255 @ 1mm 12 mm, duration - 245 @ 1mm
Toda Spec A 11.6 mm, duration - 250 @ 1mm 11.2mm, duration - 240 @ 1mm

Skunk 2 stage1 11.58 mm, duration 252 @ 1mm 10.9 mm, duration 249 @ 1mm
Skunk2 stage 2 12.3 mm, duration 266 @ 1mm 11.8 mm, duration 262 @ 1mm

Civic Type R 11.5mm, duration - 243 @ 1mm 10.5 mm, duration - 235 @ 1mm

Yeah I can see how HUGE the difference's are between CTR and Toda A's Wow what a joke

 

In my DPR stage 6 head I'm running ITR valesprings, DPR titanium retainers, DPR titanium vtec-xover pins, DPR lightened stainless steel, swirl-polished, ceramic coated valves with my Toda B's have revved it to 9K and never had a problem.

 

I figured something like that so I switched my VTEC X-over point from 6700 to 6300, and will set my RAZO shift lite to lite off at a 8400 RPM's

I'll have to exeriment with this