My g2 needs some weight reduction what are some of the biggest things to remove? I took out the a/c compressor and the motorized seat belts and fabricated a bracket to bolt just the buckle back up... saved like 10-15 lbs estimated... Moved the battery to the back (I know... illegal in some races) other than that I'm at a loss of ideas on things to remove. lol. Help me rip apart my nice car. ;-)

Harry

 

Have you stripped the interior and taken the sound deadening out? Alot of Sparco non-reclinable seats only weigh 15 lbs a piece. Gutting the doors and taking off the bumper supports also works. I don't think I'd do the last two unless I only took the car out on the weekends though.

 

Heres a few i did when my car was street legal

Most hondas you can take the window regualtors out and they have stops to keep the window up.

take any rear wipers off the car along with the stereo and antenea

remove the wing if it has one

remove the sunroof glass and brackets and use a fiberglass panel

who needs carpet and door panels or any panels for that matter

take the glove box out, it serves no purpose

the center console can go along with the heater controls since you have no heater

strut tower braces and sway bars, yes they are a waste for a drag racer

and remember lexan windows behind the drivers compartment is legal

 

Cool. I do have a heater tho should I take it out in the springtime?

Also, what kind of sound deadening is this and where is it at? I took apart an MR2 the other day and it was like some kind of epoxy like JB Weld only white... Tough stuff the only way I saw to get it off was a grinder and forget that. lol.

Harry

 

It'll be in the trunk, under the back seats, and under the front foot wells. Get some dry ice, a scrapper, and a hammer. I've been taking a portion of mine out gradually since the fall. If I get bored or pissed I go to the garage and shave a few pounds off of the car.

 

I got a load of water in the boot of my CRX and when I came to sponge it up the whole bit of sound deadining lifted out with great ease, so I ripped the stuff over the fuel tank off too

 

replace those doors and rear hatch...my CRX doors were heavy as ****, and that's with it all cut up and gutted out. The rear hatch is pretty heavy too

 

Does someone by chance make such a panel? I'd like to do this... the sunroof is heavy in my '93 si

 

yeah, check here: http://www.andrewsimportperformance.com they sell all sorts of fiberglass parts for honda's from MB Products.

 

Is this something I can do at home w/o and body work (I've never pulled a sunroof before)? Could I simply remove the glass and rails/motor/etc with hand-tools and then drop this piece in?

How much does the sunroof/all its components weigh?


[Modified by servion, 4:11 PM 2/3/2003]

 

I wonder where I can get Fiberglass Doors and/or a one piece front end... it's a g2 teg (90-93)
if anybody finds one let me know ASAP I need new doors cuz one of mine got dented in by some idiot in the shop.

Harry


[Modified by aut0tek, 5:02 AM 2/4/2003]

 

don't forget to have a 1/4 tank of gas

 

Yes, you can just remove the entire sunroof assembly... then just drop the MB fiberglass piece in there... You'll need to either rivet it in or use screws to hold it in the hole... But it is a very easy process, as long as you are comfortable removing the headliner....

The entire sunroof assembly does weigh a lot in the 93 Si's I dont have a scale, otherwise I could tell you exactly how much...

But the MB piece fits like a glove.

 

Oh yeah,

you can do this without any body work if you have the part painted first. But if this is a daily driver, you will have to figure out a way to seal it from the rain etc...

 

i drive this car on the streets although it sees more track time than anything lately.....

http://hometown.aol.com/conaire/index.html


[Modified by kentucky accord, 1:41 PM 2/4/2003]

 

im not trying to falme anyone... but:

some of the stuff your talking about removing is a big part of the structure of the car. If the car is a track only car.. fine, bu im seeing some of these guys say they drive these cars on teh street...

thats scary. Your not only reducing the weight of your car, but reducing your chances of survival if soeoen hits you on the street. Door panels stop meatl thats begingbent from comming inside the car and scutting your arms off... the rear hatch, its a big heavy peice for a reason, it will aid in the flex and holding the car togehter incase you get rear ended.

Id hate to read about one of you guys getting killed becasue you wanted to shed a few extra punds off the car.

Heres a good idea, ( and im not saying anyone is fat , im the last person to call soeone fat) why dont you go on personal diets, shed 20lbs from you, instead of taking a chance youll end up being a 150lb rock buried in the ground after a car crash.

track only cars... go nuts... there is rules there, just like the street.

 

well, i just drive mine to the grocery store and thats about it. i cant go much farther becuase i am running open header and it attracks cops like whoa.

 

Well that, and I never saw a piece of plastic stop a 40 mph moving 1.5 ton vehicle either. :-/ If I wanted more padding I would've bought a cadillac.

Harry

 

LOL! this struck me as funny. but i do have to agree that in my case, i have less protection although the protection to begin with was inadequate.

 

Get a full roll cage, then worry about lightening it. You should work on chassis stability and suspension geomaetry before making your car light and ruining your chances of survival during a crash. You can always make more power too. You can always race NEKKID.

 

im not putting a cage in until im going fast enough to warrant one and the track officials are booting me outta there.......

 

like i said, it sees mostly track time now except for the occasional grocery getting. i can haul the **** outta some groceries with no interior...hell, i have more cargo space than my full size pickup!
BTW, im not running 14s. i run 13s all motor with just headwork, bolt ons, and with the ORIGINAL SOHC motor.....

i like to do things differently and that no one else wants to do and/or knows better than to try, lol.

 

Umm yea If I were gutted like you say I'd be well under the 14s I already run.

Thanks.

harry

 

That's cool your car is gutted now, and you wonder why traction is a problem when you take off your chassis flexs like Arnold. I'm sure your suspension is just as nice too. If you set-up your chassis right you won't need as much power to be fast. I understand it's not nessesary because your not going that fast, but it's easier to get it to hookup right if it's not flexing and twisting. One of the reasons Jimfab and Z-10 crossmembers work so well. They prevent flexing. All racing is like this BTW. Your chassis is more important than your engine.

 

mmm... okay once again, plastic is not going to stop any chassis twist with an awesome 150 or so ft/lbs of torque anyways... what little twist I get will not be stoppoed by a piece of plastic with carpet glued on top. I do appreciate your opinion however I disagree. ;-)

Harry

Edit: It would be nice if I could lern 2 spell the word "stopped". fonix n stuf.


[Modified by aut0tek, 1:21 AM 2/9/2003]