B16 idiling at 2,000+ RPM's!!!!
Hey guys, I don't know what's wrong with my motor, its idling at 2,000 and sometimes 2500. Its really loud as well. And i know its not because of the cold because i was parked underground and it was very well heated, all my ice/snow was melted and you can practically walk naked down there and be as warm as a whistile. And it still idle's high. I've tried resetting the ECU. but it still doesn't work. I'm thinking its the TPS sensor, but that's the only thing i can think of. Any help would be nice. thanks guys.
First make sure you have full coolant level in the system, this sometimes causes high idle problems. Next make sure your car is at the correct ignition timing(16 degrees +/-1) this could cause it also. Next if all else fails, take the IAC(idle air control) off the back of the intake manifold(should be like 3 or 4 10mm bolts holding it on and a sensor plugged into it. There should be screen on it when you take it off, spray some brake parts cleaner and clean the screen off. Replace it back on the intake manifold turn the car on and adjust the idle screw to the correct RPMs with the IAC plug unplugged and after you do plug the IAC back in. Next reset the battery and see if this helps. If not you may have a vacuum unplugged or an intake leak in the manifold somewhere, take some brake parts cleaner and spray on the intake manifold(when cold) and see if the idle fluctuates if so you may have a leak. Just my .02
so if i spray that break cleaner when its cold it should flucuate the rpms?? and that well check to see if i have any leaks. okay, so the screen on my sensor is probably dirty in other words?
and how do you adjust the idle speed? can you tell me roughly where its located??
thanks for the .02 though, i will try as soon as i am done school
and how do you adjust the idle speed? can you tell me roughly where its located??
thanks for the .02 though, i will try as soon as i am done school
yes spray it on top of the manifold not in the throttle body, but its probably just the IAC thats dirty. On the Throttle body there is a small hole with a flat head screwdriver screw in it, turning it left makes the idle go up, and turning it right makes the idle go down.
cool
but there is another question, i also think that VTEC doesn't kick in, and i hit rev limiter at 7800.
vtec is not effected from the IAC is it???
but there is another question, i also think that VTEC doesn't kick in, and i hit rev limiter at 7800.
vtec is not effected from the IAC is it???
my b16 in my crx was doing the exact same thing. turns out the IAC got damaged somehow. it's fixed and the idle is right where it's suppose to be once the car warms up.
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I had a high idle problem when I first started up my B16A1, and it turned out that the cause was that little diaphram bolted to the throttle body. You can disconnect the pin that holds the arm from the diaphram to the cam for your throttle cable.
My idle was 2500-3000rpm in neutral. HTH if the above suggestions don't work.
My idle was 2500-3000rpm in neutral. HTH if the above suggestions don't work.
Rexman
i'm using a PR3 computer that is chipped with skunk2
my revlimiter is usually 8200. like it bounces off the tach.
hmm
okay i wil check my IAC valve than. thanks guys
still haven't got time to check it though, still in class.
i'm using a PR3 computer that is chipped with skunk2
my revlimiter is usually 8200. like it bounces off the tach.
hmm
okay i wil check my IAC valve than. thanks guys
still haven't got time to check it though, still in class.
okay, it does not idle at 2000 no more
it idles like 700-800 now, but VTEC doens't kick in no more, i know this because of 2 reasons, 1 it doesn't sound like it and 2 my light doesn't come on. Seems like this light actually did some good other than blind my passensgers :D
but that's besides teh point, what could be wrong now?? and i hit my limiter at 7800 and i could usually hit rev limiter at 8200..
can anyone tell me what's wrong?? Btw, i ddin't fiddle with any of the sensors yet, i just drove home one day and next thing you know i looked and it was sitting at my normal revs. thanks for those who did reply though, if does happen in the fure i will approach it those fashions. thanks. but not another arise and i need your help...
it idles like 700-800 now, but VTEC doens't kick in no more, i know this because of 2 reasons, 1 it doesn't sound like it and 2 my light doesn't come on. Seems like this light actually did some good other than blind my passensgers :D
but that's besides teh point, what could be wrong now?? and i hit my limiter at 7800 and i could usually hit rev limiter at 8200..
can anyone tell me what's wrong?? Btw, i ddin't fiddle with any of the sensors yet, i just drove home one day and next thing you know i looked and it was sitting at my normal revs. thanks for those who did reply though, if does happen in the fure i will approach it those fashions. thanks. but not another arise and i need your help...
usually if u got a code vtec wont kick in
and vtec wont kick on idle.. u need input from the VSS....
check for codes...reset ecu a few times...
make sure u got everything doble checked and workin and try again
and vtec wont kick on idle.. u need input from the VSS....
check for codes...reset ecu a few times...
make sure u got everything doble checked and workin and try again
Jake, I don't know actually it just stopped i guess you could say. I can't explain it nor would i be able to tell you what's wrong. But i have tried resetting the ecu, but vtec still does not work.
If i cleaned the eacv would that work?? like allow my vtec to kick in again?
If i cleaned the eacv would that work?? like allow my vtec to kick in again?
reason vtec doesn't work right:
1. Sounds simple but check your oil level if its too low the car won't rev as high and vtec won't work.
2. I know you did this but i have to add this vtec won't engage when the car isn't fully to operating temperature most of the time, unless you have a controller.
3.Check engine lights will lower rev limit and deter vtec in most cases, especially if it is one of the sensors required to activate vtec(VSS, vtec solenoid, vtec oil pressure, etc)
4. The IAC should not effect vtec unless the ecu is throwing code for the sensor not being plugged in.
5. Is the car acting normal other wise? If the wiring for the vtec was not plugged in it would give a signal to the ecu and throw a code. Check the oil because mine did that once before also. You can also check to see if the vtec solenoid is working by placing a wire to the vtec solenoid from the battery + terminal but don't hold it on there just lightly and quickly touch it and you should hear a click, if not you have a bad solenoid, never really heard of a bad vtec solenoid but it could happen. BTW are you activating the vtec via the shift light or is the light just wired into the solenoid to show you when it comes on. Oh yeah one more thing make sure your ground on the vtec is properly grounded and is getting a good ground, this is important. Good luck
1. Sounds simple but check your oil level if its too low the car won't rev as high and vtec won't work.
2. I know you did this but i have to add this vtec won't engage when the car isn't fully to operating temperature most of the time, unless you have a controller.
3.Check engine lights will lower rev limit and deter vtec in most cases, especially if it is one of the sensors required to activate vtec(VSS, vtec solenoid, vtec oil pressure, etc)
4. The IAC should not effect vtec unless the ecu is throwing code for the sensor not being plugged in.
5. Is the car acting normal other wise? If the wiring for the vtec was not plugged in it would give a signal to the ecu and throw a code. Check the oil because mine did that once before also. You can also check to see if the vtec solenoid is working by placing a wire to the vtec solenoid from the battery + terminal but don't hold it on there just lightly and quickly touch it and you should hear a click, if not you have a bad solenoid, never really heard of a bad vtec solenoid but it could happen. BTW are you activating the vtec via the shift light or is the light just wired into the solenoid to show you when it comes on. Oh yeah one more thing make sure your ground on the vtec is properly grounded and is getting a good ground, this is important. Good luck
the light is just to see when vtec is engauged. hmm
i will check my oil levels and than i will proceed to the solenoid and check to see if it clicks. Yeah i remeber doing that a long period time ago when i first had the motor dropped in.
-> as for normal..seems pretty normal, no high idiling except for in the morning but drops down a couple minutes later after driving. i even waited 30 mins before actually trying to engauge vtec on the highway. but to no avail it did not engauge but hit my rev limiter early. okay thanks guy, i will proceed to try those things out. but any other info is always good. t hanks
i will check my oil levels and than i will proceed to the solenoid and check to see if it clicks. Yeah i remeber doing that a long period time ago when i first had the motor dropped in.
-> as for normal..seems pretty normal, no high idiling except for in the morning but drops down a couple minutes later after driving. i even waited 30 mins before actually trying to engauge vtec on the highway. but to no avail it did not engauge but hit my rev limiter early. okay thanks guy, i will proceed to try those things out. but any other info is always good. t hanks
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jess6369
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
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Oct 27, 2013 03:14 PM





