running speaker wire thru your door
been contemplating putting in a system into my integra r...
however, gauging from my past experience with my '93 teg and putting in better speaker wire for the front satellite speakers, i'm not sure if i wanna go through it again.
anyone know how to run your wires *cleanly* through the door conduit without cuting up your hands and arms? or will i just have to go through it? please help!
t.i.a.
however, gauging from my past experience with my '93 teg and putting in better speaker wire for the front satellite speakers, i'm not sure if i wanna go through it again.
anyone know how to run your wires *cleanly* through the door conduit without cuting up your hands and arms? or will i just have to go through it? please help!
t.i.a.
I had the same problem. Just drilled holes in the door (inside of the weather seals) and body, then used rubber grommets-30 minutes. Email me if you want pics. But yeah, using the factory holes is a huge PITA.
electricians use wire pulling compund to pull wires thru conduit. It basically lubricates the wire so it pulls easier. You can use grease or vaseline or something like that too. Kinda messy, but it should help
Oh man, the door wiring is a bit@h, I just spent my whole 3 day weekend dealing w/ my new setup. Creating the hole is only the first challenge, the finding the speaker wire once you thread it through the whole is a serious b@#tch. You have to remove the cruise control box under the dash on the drivers side (GSR), and on the passenger side I foud it was best to remove the glovebox to get to the wire.
Question, has anyone had any problems w/ not runnung, or running ripped and torn plastic weather protecton in thier doors? Mine where faded as hell, and I dident want to deal w/ tracking down new ones.
Question, has anyone had any problems w/ not runnung, or running ripped and torn plastic weather protecton in thier doors? Mine where faded as hell, and I dident want to deal w/ tracking down new ones.
Why don't you use the stock wiring and buy a component set of speakers with a seperate tweeter. Just get the signal from the factory wiring and hide the crossover inside your door so you won't have to run any wire..
That would definitely be easier!
But from what I've heard from a few people, they recommend running slightly lower gauge wire to your speakers. Especially if the separates are being amplified by a separate amp (not deck power), which is what i'm planning on doing.
Would there still be any problems? I'm assuming you were/are powering your speakers off of the deck.
I definitely like the idea of not having to re-run wire through the doors.
But from what I've heard from a few people, they recommend running slightly lower gauge wire to your speakers. Especially if the separates are being amplified by a separate amp (not deck power), which is what i'm planning on doing.
Would there still be any problems? I'm assuming you were/are powering your speakers off of the deck.
I definitely like the idea of not having to re-run wire through the doors.
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The "hardcore" way to do it would be to run new 18-16 ga speaker wires. This is a lot of work b/c you usually have to make some new holes and this usually requires taking your doors off to drill the holes and put in grommits and flexloom. Warning: taking your doors off is easy, putting back and tweaking em' straight like original requires extra time.
The advantage (besides having good quality wiring vs. dinky small factory wire) is you get a perfect run all the way back to your trunk, and you can also mount your passive cross-overs externally (which allows for adjustments and COOL viewing). Mounting the cross-overs in the trunk entails running two pairs of wires to each door. Try inwall speaker wire which has 4 x 16 ga wires in a tight single loom.
Tap into the pre-run factory speaker wire or run your own new wire?...depends on how much time you want to put into your audio system and the quality of the components.
Just remember that if you tap in your factory wires, than you have to mount your passive cross-over in your door, which is fine if it's one of the lesser kind.
If your using a killer component set that uses huge adjustable cross-over networks, than go the extra mile and put in some good wire.
The advantage (besides having good quality wiring vs. dinky small factory wire) is you get a perfect run all the way back to your trunk, and you can also mount your passive cross-overs externally (which allows for adjustments and COOL viewing). Mounting the cross-overs in the trunk entails running two pairs of wires to each door. Try inwall speaker wire which has 4 x 16 ga wires in a tight single loom.
Tap into the pre-run factory speaker wire or run your own new wire?...depends on how much time you want to put into your audio system and the quality of the components.
Just remember that if you tap in your factory wires, than you have to mount your passive cross-over in your door, which is fine if it's one of the lesser kind.
If your using a killer component set that uses huge adjustable cross-over networks, than go the extra mile and put in some good wire.
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