How to paint you IC piping?
Currently my intercooler piping is black but I want to paint it bright red to match my car. What brand of paint is best to use for this application? I would like it to be glossy if possible. If anyones got pics of any projects that they have done themselves please post 'em !
sand the piping down to bare metal, then prime it with hi engine temp paint 500deg, sand them down with 600 grit sandpaper, wetsand only...
let it dry then paint with hi temp engien paint...a few coats at a time then clear coat it..
stan
let it dry then paint with hi temp engien paint...a few coats at a time then clear coat it..
stan
sand the piping down to bare metal, then prime it with hi engine temp paint 500deg, sand them down with 600 grit sandpaper, wetsand only...
let it dry then paint with hi temp engien paint...a few coats at a time then clear coat it..
stan
let it dry then paint with hi temp engien paint...a few coats at a time then clear coat it..
stan
My IC piping has a powder-coat finish but I might have it re-done before the install.
whats wet-sand?
it's when you sand it with water and basically keeps the sandpaper surface clean from the dirt and junk that builds up on the sandpaper surface (my theory though
) there's more to it though, I forgot. I only wet sand when I use sandpaper with a grit of 600 or more.[Modified by sleeperciv, 12:37 AM 1/19/2003]
I sanded mine down, with 600, then wet sanded it. Clean it thouroughly with some laquer thinner to get all grease and oils off it. Then paint with high temp paint until you get what you want.
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whats wet-sand?
it's when you sand it with water and basically keeps the sandpaper surface clean from the dirt and junk that builds up on the sandpaper surface (my theory though
) there's more to it though, I forgot. I only wet sand when I use sandpaper with a grit of 600 or more.
[Modified by sleeperciv, 12:37 AM 1/19/2003]
it's when you sand it with water and basically keeps the sandpaper surface clean from the dirt and junk that builds up on the sandpaper surface (my theory though
) there's more to it though, I forgot. I only wet sand when I use sandpaper with a grit of 600 or more.[Modified by sleeperciv, 12:37 AM 1/19/2003]
after some winter driving, my IC piping is starting to show rust.. its aluminized steel..
do i just do what mentioned above (wetsandit and repaint)?
i want to use something that will protect better and won't scratch as easily.. any suggestions?
do i just do what mentioned above (wetsandit and repaint)?
i want to use something that will protect better and won't scratch as easily.. any suggestions?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18b1hmtlove »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">jesus christ thats like 20 more steps than i would ever take.
Go to homedepo, find some rustoleum pain that you like. go home, spray paint the piping. you are done.....
I cant see why you would need any more steps</TD></TR></TABLE>
that'll work.. but it'll most likley look like **** and not last for very long.
Go to homedepo, find some rustoleum pain that you like. go home, spray paint the piping. you are done.....
I cant see why you would need any more steps</TD></TR></TABLE>
that'll work.. but it'll most likley look like **** and not last for very long.
there is nothing keeping it from looking just fine and dandy. It has a coating over the piping to "prevent" rusting which shouldnt act against the the paint. if you are suggestiong that the surface will be too smooth to have to paint "grab" onto, i didnt run into any problem of the sort painting my FMIC or my various other metal tubing so i dont think charge pipes would be any different.
Obviously my method isnt for a show car or anything of the sort, but it will work and last as just fine. When it starts chipping a way after a year or whatever its not hard to go in the engine bay and touch up the spots with a brush. and rustoleum is good for 300F, thats plenty strong enough for your engine bay.
Obviously my method isnt for a show car or anything of the sort, but it will work and last as just fine. When it starts chipping a way after a year or whatever its not hard to go in the engine bay and touch up the spots with a brush. and rustoleum is good for 300F, thats plenty strong enough for your engine bay.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18b1hmtlove »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">jesus christ thats like 20 more steps than i would ever take.
Go to homedepo, find some rustoleum pain that you like. go home, spray paint the piping. you are done.....
I cant see why you would need any more steps</TD></TR></TABLE>
some people like to take their time and do it right. some just go to homedepot and then start spraying.....
Go to homedepo, find some rustoleum pain that you like. go home, spray paint the piping. you are done.....
I cant see why you would need any more steps</TD></TR></TABLE>
some people like to take their time and do it right. some just go to homedepot and then start spraying.....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtec.dc2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">after some winter driving, my IC piping is starting to show rust.. its aluminized steel..
do i just do what mentioned above (wetsandit and repaint)?
i want to use something that will protect better and won't scratch as easily.. any suggestions?</TD></TR></TABLE>
i should have started another thread - people aren't seeing my post..
what to do in my case?.. just sand it? wetsand it and repaint? and whats a good paint so it won't rust again.
do i just do what mentioned above (wetsandit and repaint)?
i want to use something that will protect better and won't scratch as easily.. any suggestions?</TD></TR></TABLE>
i should have started another thread - people aren't seeing my post..
what to do in my case?.. just sand it? wetsand it and repaint? and whats a good paint so it won't rust again.
I had similar problems with the muffler on my old 914. Finally one day I got fed up and took it off to work on it. I dry sanded it down to bare metal by hand using 320 grit [this took some time and patience], then painted it with about 5 LIGHT coats of high temp engine paint. I let it dry for a full 24 hours, then bolted it back on and started it up. It never had a problem with flaking, scratching, or anything after that. I sold the car about 4 months later.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtec.dc2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i should have started another thread - people aren't seeing my post..
what to do in my case?.. just sand it? wetsand it and repaint? and whats a good paint so it won't rust again.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sand with 250 grit to roughen the surface, no reason to go all the way to bare metal.
Find a high temp enamal sprat paint, apply two coats.
Wet sand with 400, then 600 (just enough to get any remaining surface defects out)
Apply two or three more coats of paint.
If you're really **** about the finish, wet sand with 800, then 1000, and then apply a couple coats of clearcoat.
But I'd probably just:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18b1hmtlove »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Go to homedepo, find some rustoleum pain that you like. go home, spray paint the piping. you are done.....</TD></TR></TABLE>
i should have started another thread - people aren't seeing my post..
what to do in my case?.. just sand it? wetsand it and repaint? and whats a good paint so it won't rust again.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sand with 250 grit to roughen the surface, no reason to go all the way to bare metal.
Find a high temp enamal sprat paint, apply two coats.
Wet sand with 400, then 600 (just enough to get any remaining surface defects out)
Apply two or three more coats of paint.
If you're really **** about the finish, wet sand with 800, then 1000, and then apply a couple coats of clearcoat.
But I'd probably just:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18b1hmtlove »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Go to homedepo, find some rustoleum pain that you like. go home, spray paint the piping. you are done.....</TD></TR></TABLE>
if you have rust, you should grind, sandblast, or hand sand it all off to bare metal. then spray it with some etching primer to prevent the rust from spreading or re-oxidizing. the rest of the surface area can be either sanded with 320(or finer) grit paper or "scuffed" with a scotchpad to the point where there is no more gloss.
you don't need to go to bare metal or wetsand in order to get good adhesion. going to bare metal only promotes more rust if you let it sit too long and requires more etching primer if you do. wetsanding on the other hand, is only if you absolutely must have the surface flat and smooth for show quality. but if you were going that route, you'd have to wetsand after every paint process to get it perfect.
once you have everything sanded or scuffed, clean the surface with a "wax and grease remover", which you can get at your local auto paint store. don't use lacquer thinner if you have any form of coating left on the surface cause it could eat away at it and make a big mess.
now after all that prepping, you can begin the laying the paint on which is fairly easy. first lay on some primer, then paint, then clearcoat if necessary. lay about 2-3 coats of each with about 5-10 minutes in between and spray at a distance of about 10-12 inches from the surface. i say clearcoat if necessary because some paints already have clear(gloss) in the color.
and lastly, i don't think you'd need to use high temp paint on i/c piping because in my opinion, they just don't get that hot. but whatever you use, just make sure that you get the same brand primer, paint, and clear. hope this helps.
you don't need to go to bare metal or wetsand in order to get good adhesion. going to bare metal only promotes more rust if you let it sit too long and requires more etching primer if you do. wetsanding on the other hand, is only if you absolutely must have the surface flat and smooth for show quality. but if you were going that route, you'd have to wetsand after every paint process to get it perfect.
once you have everything sanded or scuffed, clean the surface with a "wax and grease remover", which you can get at your local auto paint store. don't use lacquer thinner if you have any form of coating left on the surface cause it could eat away at it and make a big mess.
now after all that prepping, you can begin the laying the paint on which is fairly easy. first lay on some primer, then paint, then clearcoat if necessary. lay about 2-3 coats of each with about 5-10 minutes in between and spray at a distance of about 10-12 inches from the surface. i say clearcoat if necessary because some paints already have clear(gloss) in the color.
and lastly, i don't think you'd need to use high temp paint on i/c piping because in my opinion, they just don't get that hot. but whatever you use, just make sure that you get the same brand primer, paint, and clear. hope this helps.
Just FYI, normal paint holds up fine. The 500 degree stuff is cheap insurance, but my piping has help up fine except for a few places that I scratched it when installing it.
i dont think you need to sand it down to the bare metal. just rough it up all over and then paint. you just want a good surface for the paint to adhere to, i think down to the metal is a little overkill(did that on a motorcycle tank once, took forever, and just roughing up the old paint would have looked just as good).
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Diego Boost »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Currently my intercooler piping is black but I want to paint it bright red to match my car. What brand of paint is best to use for this application? I would like it to be glossy if possible. If anyones got pics of any projects that they have done themselves please post 'em ! </TD></TR></TABLE>
i know this is off topic but why is the author of this post banned and still has his post count lol.... i have never seen that before. its like hes banned but can still post whatsup with that
i know this is off topic but why is the author of this post banned and still has his post count lol.... i have never seen that before. its like hes banned but can still post whatsup with that
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