i was just wondering if anyone knows what i would have to do to drop a d16y8 into my car. i have a 1991 civic si and i might buy a d16y8 off someone i know but im not sure what mods i will have to do to put it in.

 

first use the searchbutton.

 

You can use a PG7 (1988-1989 Integra) ecu with same year injectors, use your CRX SI tranny, axles and mounts. You will need something like an MSD module to activate your VTEC.... Your CRX SI distributor will work fine and so will your starter and alternator.

That about sums it up.




[Modified by SevS2k, 9:56 PM 1/17/2003]

 

is the d16z6 the same?

 

No, don't do that. Use a P28 ECU, convert the car to OBD-I, and you will have a much better running D16Y8. Do a search in the archived topics, I know I've answered a billion of these questions.

 

What are the benefits of doing that? Sure you have the Vtec maps but the PG7 already runs rich enough for vtec and costs less than a P28.

I have mine set up this way and it runs like a charm, is really fast and I've had 0 problems so far.

Any other reasons to pay extra for the p28?

I have been a lurker here for a long time and read many threads on the subject, still am unsure of the benefits.

Thanks.




[Modified by SevS2k, 12:27 AM 1/18/2003]

 

Look at it this way...

You should always run the right ECU for the engine you're using. PLUS:

OBD-I is much more responsive, and it's an easier system to tune. You have so many more options with the P28 ECU, plus you've already got OBD-I if you want to get an OBD-I B-Series in the future. Plus, you don't have to mess around with it when you're done.

 

I run a P28 with my SOHC VTEC crx. I really noticed a difference when I did my conversion from when I had a pg7/VAFC combo. I think it has to do with the timing changes that the ecu makes when VTEC engages. I would do it right and run OBD1. check my sig also

 

nope.
y8 is lighter and has 127hp

 

also with the z6 you will have to get creative in mounting the distributor(a6 dist.) cause only 2 bolts line up, as opposed to the y8(direct bolt-on)---all this is if your opting to stay OBD-O.

 

Are there any dyno charts I can see of PG7 vs a P28.

Mine is very strong with a PG7, I want to know if there is really a benefit in going to a P28 and see if it is worth it to convert to OBD1.

I searched and couldn't find any.

Thank you.

 

Anyone have real figirues about the differences?

I am really serious, if its worth the swap, I'll do it, from what I have seen and read, seems to me like the time and money is better spent elsewhere.

If it really is better though, I want to do it.

Anyone?

 

Nobody has some real data past butt feeling about this?

I am building a trac car and need to know if there is really a $ worthwile advantage to do this. Any numbers?

 

if its a street car as well you may want to do it to avoid the lopey idle, and degrading gas mileage, not to say a suped up y8 won't guzzle mucho gas. Its worth it only if its a street car, i did hella research on doing a head swap and everything and it was completely not worth it. 130 hp, and miniscule gains for waayyyy too much money. I'd say evaluate what you'll use it for, find out what you're looking for, and figure out how much you're going to spend, and if you like what you end up with, go for it

 

your other option is to use a PR3 or PWO ecu for OBD0 DOHC VTEC 1.6L and get it chipped to P28 fuel/timing and removed knock sensor code, or just get one and get the knock sensor function removed from a place like locashracing. I've run mine for almost a year with no problems and some good 1/4 mile times to boot. I also have a Fields Vtec controller but hardly ever use it because the ecu is chipped for a 5k vtec cut in and runs kinda rich but i figured that would help a little down the road if i ever do the zex street/strip camshaft due to the ecu having a higher fuel cut limit. Plus this ecu will plug right in and you will have to run the vtec wires similar to bseries dohc vtec swap without the knock sensor wiring.


[Modified by DirtySohcs, 9:43 PM 1/20/2003]