check this out... lit's prolly not going to do anything w/ the 4pt installed back in. but i like how it looks in the DC2's and EG+

here's another glary shot

 

i've seen a couple of people with it already, but looks good

 

where did u get it from?? any differences when driving?? looks good IMO

 

I've got one. I got it custom made. I'll try to post i pic up.

But where did you bolt it to? I have mine bolted to the hatch struts bolt.

 

So is that to help you align the hatch properly? Because other than that, that thing ain't doing nothin'.

 

align the hatch?? hahah i wasn't even looking for it to do that! ijust thought the rear looked kinda boring and saw the pillar bars. so i was like, what the hell. and BAM! there you go, some eye candy for the rear rex. 4pt rollbar coming in this weekend.

 

anytime you add a brace to the chassi it does something...maybe not a big difference but it supports the chassi and stiffens it. if the little bars didnt do anything why would DC's come with small trunk braces and front and rear uppers....

 

The chassis will flex hardly anything in that area because the rear of the roof is welded on a thick plate of steel which gives most of the strength of the upper body (along with the windscreen and roof itself). Also I don't really see the point of it since flexing of the body is bad when the suspension angles (camber/toe) are changed (minimal!!) and also tires loose grip because less pressure is put on the outer rotating wheels (that's why they invented LSD)

Therefor it's better to mount a lower and upper strut bar to improve the lower stiffness and handling.. or simply get a rollcage (6 point like I have gives a LOT of stiffness!)

So I guess this is not as good as it looks





[Modified by REX VT, 1:32 AM 1/17/2003]

 

You sure sound like you know your stuff. But I had some parts lying in my garage that I was going to toss away so I spent about 30mins and made that badboy. I do however have a 4pt rollbar going back in this weekend w/ a rear strut and front strut. I'm still looking around for a nice clean looking lower tie bar. I wonder what's the reasoning of the EK and EG pillar bars then? Because they dont' seem to need the upper support. Hey... CAN'T BEAT FREE!

 

Just edited my reply and now it makes sense (it's late for me)

I took apart my car many times including the entire roof panel (welded in DX roof) and was surprised to see how thick and strong this "T"-bar is. The lower strut bars from the EG actually fit 4th gens , along with an upper strut bar and aftermarket 22-24mm swaybar they'll give the cars a really 'feelable' and controlable oversteer which is MUCH wanted in the CRX because the wheelbase is just too short compared with the Civics which are much more gentle.

The biggest difference is the rollcage.. I can open my doors when the car is up on a 4-point carbridge! I still need the A-support frames which will reduce the front torsion. Not that I have much with the near stock B16 but that will definitely change with double the torque!

 

I think it looks good.

That biotch would hurt like heck if you wreched your head across it.

 

looks chill i made mine for my ef hb i think it helped but maybe thats just me but my car feels solid.

 

coo. i think it looks nice even if it doesnt really help that much. at least it looks like it does something

 

only a 4 point? hahahahaa j/k...

anyway, does your hatch rattle anymore?

 

rattle?! it never stops rattling! only sounds better at 1000rpm idle so gotta set that this weekend. it's so quiet in other stock cars..i'm jeolous.

 

the other thing is if u use harnesses mounted tothe floor it would be a high point to loop them over. myself I am doing the same thing but doing it between the bolts for the upper seatbelt mounts just in front of the rear quarter glass.(canadian car doesnt have door mounted seat belts)

 

re: the rattle

1)i doused all the rubber insulation that seals the hatch in armor all (used a sponge)
2) i adjusted the rubber feet at the two corners so that it takes some effort to close the hatch (this helps stabilize the hatch).
3) i covered the metal U-latch with grease (to stop the squeak).

now my hatch doesnt squeak or rattle at all (except over extremely harsh bumps/roads), and i have over 300k miles on my rex.

 

thanks the rattle replys. I'll look into that today. How do you adjust those points anyways? Just unscrew them? As for the dry cleaning.... that's where I had some of my closthes hanging on hangers on my way back to college. hahah Great minds think alike eh..?

 

bah. with my b16a and hasport mounts, it doesn't matter. i think it always will. i tell everyone that it's just my ticked off squirrels in the back under the cargo cover.

 

Wish I could use something like that in my EF9, but it only has lap belts in the rear

 

you could make some pads on that thing for headrests!! that would be funny.

 

hahah in the process of making some headrest pads for the rear seats! hahah, DC2's and EG+ can't have all the glory! and i dont' get the point of having only lapbelts in the back of the EF9. so what, the bar can go ontop!

 

I think this helps more

 

HUH? The EF9 comes with Lap belts only in the rear, the USDM come with shoulder and lap belts in the rear, blame it on the weird Japanese.

 

OMG you win!!! That's the most badass thing I've ever seen in a REX!!! I like the console too. DAMN. *DROOL* Can I get more pics of the bars and console? thanks.