MPFI swap. 3500 RPM revlimiter WTF?...
This is on a friends car we searched the huge achrives for hours and still cant figure it out.
pulling a code 4
Idle is perfect
Tried a new map sensor off Si
Tried my working Si ECU
Tried my working SI Distributor
Wiring seems to be correct to the crank angle sensor.
Engine is perfect Timmed etc. firing well
any ideas?
pulling a code 4
Idle is perfect
Tried a new map sensor off Si
Tried my working Si ECU
Tried my working SI Distributor
Wiring seems to be correct to the crank angle sensor.
Engine is perfect Timmed etc. firing well
any ideas?
Did you re-wire the distributor harness your self? If so visually check that the wires going out of the distributor harness are meeting up with the same colored wires on the car side harness.
Yes we did this was all checked. I am an electronics student and I though for sure that was the problem. We even took the wires and I logic tested them to the back side of plug by putting a pin in the wire. and it is all hooked up form ECU to distributor.
Im thinking maybe the instructions are worng? any idea where the Crank sensor supoosed to go? I think it is in C1 and C2 and those wires that were in there before went to b10 and b12. Im not positve thats where they are cause im at my house now but Im pretty sure. And they arent backwards cause we tried them both ways and they are factory colored wires
THX
Im thinking maybe the instructions are worng? any idea where the Crank sensor supoosed to go? I think it is in C1 and C2 and those wires that were in there before went to b10 and b12. Im not positve thats where they are cause im at my house now but Im pretty sure. And they arent backwards cause we tried them both ways and they are factory colored wires

THX
Did you check to see that the pins are all the way inserted and connections are good. I had this problem after soldering and heat shriking connections and found out a pin was loose. Did you use crimp connectors???
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Check these instructions out. My friend had the same code in his 88 hatch when we swapped in a ZC, and his motor wouldn't rev past 3-4k if i remember correctly. we had one of the sensor wires tapped wrong at the ecu wiring...
Check these instructions out. My friend had the same code in his 88 hatch when we swapped in a ZC, and his motor wouldn't rev past 3-4k if i remember correctly. we had one of the sensor wires tapped wrong at the ecu wiring...
i agree with 88crxvtec check the splices going into the ecu harness i swapped pins and didn't push one in all the way and spent a month and a half replacing EVERYTHING until i realized that was the problem and I had the exact same symptoms
Yes this is all good. we even checked the connection when puished in cause we though maybe when we would go to connect it the pin would pop out.....
Im gonna recheck tonight tho and ill let you guys now.
Keep em coming
Im gonna recheck tonight tho and ill let you guys now.
Keep em coming
Yup. Wheres JDM ahtch when ya need em?.....
Think it could be a sensor??
Think it could be a sensor??
code 4 crank angle...
make sure ur dizzy cables are going to the right spot... make sure u didnt cross them.... make sure u got CKP Pos pin B10 to the white cable off dizzy and CKP Neg B12 to the orange cable off dizzy...(at least this configuration works on my car)
i have had this problem 2 times... first ill tell u to check and make sure 200% that u got those 2 wires conected right... flip them if u have to... my papers said B10 to ORG and B12 to WHT when actually on my car right now its B10 to WHT and B12 to ORG
ok heres some ALL DATA info i got...
check engine lights code 4
turn the ignition swith off
remove hazard fuse in the main fuse box for 10 sec to reset ecu
start engine
if check engine still there then proceed to disconect the 8P conector from dizzy that contains TDC/crank/cyl sensors..measure resistance between orange and white cables (terminals)
is there 350-550 ohms.... if no replace dizzy
cehck for continuity to body to gnd on C terminal and D terminal individually
does continuity exists??? if yes replace dizzy....
reconect the conector
go to ecu harness... disconect..
car harness... measure resistance between B10 and B12 temrinals...
is there 350-550 ohms... if no repair open in ORN and /or WHT wires.
The CRANK angle sensor determines timing for fuel injection and ignition of each cylinder and also detects engine RPMs. The TDC sensor determines the ignition timing at start-up (cranking) and when crank angle signal its abnormal.
The check engine light and ECU LED may come on, indicating a system problem, when in fact, there is a poor or intermittent electrical connection. First check the electrical conectiuons, clean and repair conections if nesesary.
Hope this helps
thanx a lot JDM EF9 ur a huge help and i'll try what u said and see if it works
WOW i did a search myself into it and cant beleive that 5 outta 9 results didnt really help... was mayor BS.... and that my name came up explaining some stuff on some of them... anyways.... good luck and let us know how it goes...
i tryed doin it but didnt work i'll try and do it better i just did it real quick so i do it better tomorro thanx for the help tho
and another thing what do u mean i thought the wires comeing off the dissy are blue/yellow and blue/green not white and orange and i thought they go into C1 and C2 or maybe i just read it wrong
[Modified by CRXBoy, 5:56 AM 1/16/2003]
and another thing what do u mean i thought the wires comeing off the dissy are blue/yellow and blue/green not white and orange and i thought they go into C1 and C2 or maybe i just read it wrong
[Modified by CRXBoy, 5:56 AM 1/16/2003]
OK man i think I got it. I will help CRXBpoy tommrow and we are going to get this....
I think I remeber reading what you said somewhere a few yaers ago..
I think I remeber reading what you said somewhere a few yaers ago..
the blue yel and blue green are for the CYL sensor.
we talking about the crank angle sensor wich are the orange and white cables comming off the dizzy
remember that DX and STD dizzy only has 2 sensors and the Si and etc has 3 sensors...
we talking about the crank angle sensor wich are the orange and white cables comming off the dizzy
remember that DX and STD dizzy only has 2 sensors and the Si and etc has 3 sensors...
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This post is very helpfull..........
I am about to purchase a 91 civ dx hatchback w/ a crx si motor .
The owner obviously failed to do the steps to complete thew swap.
The car also rev limits to 4000rpm......
hopefully i can fix this thing, if not oh well the car is only 600 bucks...
BTW if anyone is in the NYC/NJ/PA area and would like to fix this problem i'll pay u .......
I am about to purchase a 91 civ dx hatchback w/ a crx si motor .
The owner obviously failed to do the steps to complete thew swap.
The car also rev limits to 4000rpm......
hopefully i can fix this thing, if not oh well the car is only 600 bucks...
BTW if anyone is in the NYC/NJ/PA area and would like to fix this problem i'll pay u .......
am finishing swapping motors etc. in my dx and now it doesnt start
, it seems like the starter is bad or low voltage. all the grounds are hooked up and the 2 starters i have are fine. it cranks SLOW and makes a harsh noise. the battery is a few years old but still in good shape. this is sooo frustrating!!! ooh i forgot to mention the motor turns freely with a ratchet on the crank pully.
, it seems like the starter is bad or low voltage. all the grounds are hooked up and the 2 starters i have are fine. it cranks SLOW and makes a harsh noise. the battery is a few years old but still in good shape. this is sooo frustrating!!! ooh i forgot to mention the motor turns freely with a ratchet on the crank pully.
am finishing swapping motors etc. in my dx and now it doesnt start
, it seems like the starter is bad or low voltage. all the grounds are hooked up and the 2 starters i have are fine. it cranks SLOW and makes a harsh noise. the battery is a few years old but still in good shape. this is sooo frustrating!!! ooh i forgot to mention the motor turns freely with a ratchet on the crank pully.
, it seems like the starter is bad or low voltage. all the grounds are hooked up and the 2 starters i have are fine. it cranks SLOW and makes a harsh noise. the battery is a few years old but still in good shape. this is sooo frustrating!!! ooh i forgot to mention the motor turns freely with a ratchet on the crank pully.
OK i followed the diagram off this page. And now it doesnt get a code 4 or any code... but it wont start.
We do have spark tho....
We do have spark tho....
Any one got a pic of the Si distro connector so I can see which wires are TDC , etc... cause i think we dont have this orange and white wire that ppl are talking about. And the distro works on my factory Si car....



