OK, I just did my DPFI to MPFI swap, everything seems correct, but one thing. My car doesn't start.

I'm getting code 15 (Ignition Signal error). Seems like it's getting gas. Distributor seems wired correctly. I'm going to swap the coil in my distributor, maybe that would work.

Anything else it could be? It seems like it's getting fuel.

nyone done this swap and had similar problems?

 

hey been trying to get mine running for the past 3 weeks!!! lol

anyways, i HAD code 15, and i got a new piece inside the distubter.. the ignition coil or something ( little box inside the distributor) ever since its been starting, but dies =P

 

I got mine running in 2 days, only thing now is map sensor. 15 is the ignitor, replace it. Should be fine.

 

i did my mpfi swap on tuesday, everything works perfectly on mine, i always here about people having problems with throwing codes, its all about not using the dx harness. i made one from scratch and it works perfectly, make sure that the crank angle sensor is hooked up right and all the pins to the ecu are correct, and it is a factory warrenty on the ignitor in hondas to go bad.

 

Once the DX harness is modified for mpfi with the four extra wires and the outer TPS are switched, how is it any different from the SI?

 

I double checked my wiring, everything *seems* correct. A 1 - 4 I made my own harness for with the stock injector harness from an Si.. wired the injectors right to the ECU..

Did the C1 to C2 wires to B10 and B12 respectively,and ran the C1 to C2 ECU connectors to the TDC and CYP ofhte Si distributor.

I swapped coil, plugged a vacumm leak, and now I'm throwing 7 (TPS), 9 (CYP, which I think I was throwing before, that'll be the distributor.. I'll take care of that later..) and 14 (IACV)..

I saw one "tutorial" about swapping the yellow and and green wires on the TPS (because the DX runs backwards?), is that true? That doesn't seem correct.. and I haven't seen this anywhere else.

This is turning into a nightmare. I'm hungry and I can't go anywhere!!! hahaha..

 

your a moron using the dx harness is te easiest way. if u use anyother harness u have to change the plugs that connect to the car dumbass

 

you do have to swap the tps wires

 

Try replace the coil and the Ignitor. You can use your old DX ones, they're the same. So, it's a free fix. Also, A common problem with these dizzys is that the wire conections on the Ignitor get loose. Make sure the Ignitor's wires are tight.

Yes, the DX TPS turns the oposite direction from the Si. Open both throtle bodys by hand and you'll see that they open in different directions. Yes, you need to switch the two outside wires to make the MPFI TPS work. And, No, the DX TPS can not be modified to work on the Si throtle body! Believe me, I tried!!

 

 

Sorry to have offended you, but if you would see my setup, then you would also see that I used a modified part of the Si harness which plugs directly into the resistor box and the injector lines. With this, only four wires had to be run to the ECU. Simple, and neat. *THAT* is not the problem.

The problem is the original EACV. I've gotten the TPS problem fixed, that code is gone, and I have narrowed the cynider position sensor code to the sensor actually being bad, which I will replace, but I'm still getting the EACV (Code 14).

I've quaduple checked the wiring. It's correct. In fact, you just extend the original plug about 6". No real "wiring".

Does anyone know of any tests that can be run on the EACV to see if it is actually bad. Maybe some sort of voltage test on the wires or something?

 

Hi what is this swap being done on? how far have you gotten on this? I want to drop my '93 Honda civic lx motor into a '90 civic lx. excuse me for being a little slow but any advise you can give would be much appreciated. I have the compac sports swap from a zc is that basically the same? thanks in advance.

Elmerfudd

 

disconnect the plug from the eacv. there should be two prongs on it. Take a DVOM(multi-meter) and set it to Ohms. Resistance test the sensor. Resistance should be 08 -15 ohms. If not, replace it.

 

The 93 civic engine is OBD1, the 90 is OBD0. You have 3 options:

#1: (Cheapest and easiest, but least power) use the 90lx intake mani, ECU, and dizzy with the new engine - you won't gain any power, you'll just have a newer (more reliable - ?) engine

#2: (Good power and fairly easy) use 88-91 Si ECU, Injectors, Injector resistor box, and Dizzy, and wire everything according to the Sport Compact Article or this one:
http://hybrid2.honda-perf.org/tech/4gdxtozc.html

#3: (Probably the best, but not easy to do) convert the car to OBD1. There are several people that sell OBD1 conversion harnesses on this site. I believe one of them is Blown90hatch. You will also have to perform the MPFI conversion like you do in #2. this way you will be able to run the 93 lx ECU.

 

awesome, thanks that is the general info I was looking for. that is putting me in the right direction. thanks again.
Elmerfudd