I put these in the other day along with replacing my brake fluid with ATE Superblue from Cobalt The speed bleeders really make brake bleeding super easy!

It would've been a quick job except I messed up on the first caliper because I overtightened the screw and broke it off! I was using a torque wrench and I guess for the lower torque values the click was very subtle and I missed it I had to drill and tap that screw out.

Good thing I bought an extra pair for instances like this! Subsequently I had a small leaking problem and ended up with blots of brake fluid on my paint! The paint wasn't too damaged though and I think I fixed the leak now.

some pix:
screw installed on front caliper


screw on rear caliper


the result of my stupidity!


the tool to my salvation


messy!


also a pic of my new jack! Lifts to 22" but weighs like 90+ lbs

 

Good Job!
lol, you looked like you ripped half your car apart to get them in there...I have Speed Bleeders too, and I agree they save tons of time. I also broke a screw in half, in the drum brake wheel cylinder, so I ended up buying another wheel cylinder and replacing the whole thing, less than $20 bucks though...what method do you use to bleed them (as in wheel order, number of pumps, etc.)

 

off topic but what kind/size tires are those? like em?

ez-bleed looks like somethiung that comes in handy!

 

so the installation of the bleeders basically involves unscrewing the old screw, and screwing in the speed bleeder.

sorry, i haven't bleed the brake system before, but i assume its the same as bleeding the clutch system. Is it also safe to assume that the stock screw on the calipers is the same type as the screw on the clutch slave cylinder?

btw, how much does a speed bleeder sell for?

 

Hey Pat,

how many tons does ur jack support, 'n how much did you get it for?

I just picked up my craftsman 3.5 ton jack yesterday (ordered it from sears.ca outlet site for 99 bucks!), and its hella heavy!

 

those are definitely kumhos.

 

I still don't get how these things make bleeding brakes all that much easier, at least not with one person. Don't you still have to have one person pump the brakes while another person watches the fluid that comes out into the tube to tell when all the bubbles are out? If you were by yourself you would have to pump brakes, then run around to the right rear wheel, go pump some more, go back around again, etc etc.

I would rather have a vacuum pump so draw the fluid out while I am right there at that wheel. Seems like that would be the easiest way. IMHO the speedbleeders seem too fragile.

 

u look like u had fun

 

I have that jack. Didn't know it jacked so high.

Christmas presents you haven't played with own.

 

to answer the questions some of you guys asked (sorry for the lateness):

Milano97- I started bleeding from the front driver side and went clockwise from there (this is what the helms specified). It took about 3 pumps to get the old fluid out and see the new blue fluid run through w/out bubbles. I just pumped a few more times just to be sure.

tegasaurus - My tires are 205-50-15 Dunlop SP9000s, much better than my old Yokohama Avids. Excellent in both the dry and wet, though its not known to be the best tire for the dry.

Mt3c - check out http://www.speedbleeder.com , they are about $7 each. I'm not sure if its the same for the clutch cylinder, and yes, installation is just a matter of removing the old screw and putting the new one in

Hexxboy - It's also a 3.5 ton, more expensive at around ~150. I actually saw the craftsman one after I already bought this one, good deal there!

PatrickGSR94 - I had someone watch while I did the first caliper. After 3-4 pumps the old fluid was purged and I was seeing bubble free blue fluid through my clear tube. No sponginess afterwards so I think it works!


PS- I didn't know ATE Superblue smelled sweet!

 

That looked fun. I had thought that when you bleed brake systems, you start bleeding from the farthest point from the master cylinder so you purge all the old fluid from your system. So for the integra, the case would be, passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, then driver front. I guess I could be wrong too though!

 

Pat, what color is your car?? And what color are your wheels?? Do you have any more pics???

 

I think on Integras, I remember reading something about the brakes diagonally across from each other are linked or something? I'm pretty sure you're supposed to do right rear, left front, left rear, then right front.


[Modified by PatrickGSR94, 8:12 PM 1/10/2003]

 

that's what my Haynes manual said but I followed what my Helms manual said instead which seemed like the protocol in the event of discrepancies.

oh yeah integranator, my car is black with bronze wheels. Sorry I don't have any pics, all the ones I had got wiped out with my hard drive!

edit: I still my Helms


[Modified by Pat, 4:05 AM 1/11/2003]

 

My Helms specifies to go diagonally, rear right first, then front left, then rear left, then front right.

 

i just got one of those diy kits from harbor freight for like five bucks. its a little plastic container with a cap connected to a silicon hose. you connect the hose to the bleeder and pump away. inside the bottle, the cap has a hose that goes down to the bottom. therses also a little vent hole on the cap.

is this not as effective, or even effective at all? it seemed to work as i saw the bubbles come out and eventually a smooth flow. i pumped the brakes about 7 times per side as i wanted to flush out as much as i could (used a whole quart of fluid).

the thing im worried about is the helms says to tighten the screw while the brake is depressed, but of course since i was alone i had to release it and tighten it myself. any ideas? brakes seem fine btw.. or however it was like before, if not slightly less soft. i guess it could be firmer.. not sure what people mean by 'spongy' either.

 

XDEp,
It will work to an extent, but if you are doing it yourself without someone to hold the brake and tighten the screw, it won't be as efficient as having Speed Bleeders or a second person, for that matter. When you release the brake without closing the screw, you can draw air back into the system on the upstroke of the brake pedal, totally defeating the purpose of what you want to accomplish, which is having no air in the brake system. When people say spongy...hmm...spongy means that the pedal is "mushy", like you can press it down easily and little to no resistance is felt, resistance which is required for efficient braking to apply pressure on the piston(s) in the brake caliper which in turn squeeze the pads on the rotors to slow down, all hydraulic stuff. The air in the system creates pockets where the fluid cannot compress, creating a lack of hydraulic pressure, which in turn leads to a smushy pedal. I just bled the brakes today on my car, and the pedal is solid. I use Speed Bleeders by the way.