http://www.hondalife.com/articles/navsfimyth.htm

Informative sorry if it is a repost.

 

i still want boost....but can only afford NA...this sucks

 

pretty informative.

 

Pretty much the re-occuring arguement of NA VS Boost in a more intelligent manner.

I blew my car up going N/A (And I did it right). Since I now know I can blow my car up going N/A I might as well go for some real power and blow it up.


[Modified by Apex i ITR, 12:35 PM 1/9/2003]

 

so are you planning on boosting the R spec? or do you have another engine in the car

 

bump ttt for an informative article...re-post or not good info! Thanks

 

Yup. I boosting my R motor. I replaced the JDM ITR motor with a 2001 ITR motor from Acura.

I don't know hiow much boost I'm gonna run so let me just say that I'm going to run as much boost the tuner can get safely on a stock motor.

I need to get a 4 door car (Start another project).

I'll be happy with 250 (In hatch that'll be more then enough). Elated with 270....Happy as a pig i nshit with 300.

 

Boost is for pussies!

Oops, I boost too

 

That's why I want a hair dryer and you have a blender (That what I call SC's because they sound like blenders to me). Boost is for bitches.......I wonder how it will feel to get killed by a bitch

 

yeah. good stuff. bump.

 

Most people don't realize that Turbo is less reliable than all motor, not because it puts more stress on a motor or because you blow motors more easily. A good tune, and conservative timing and fuel should take care of that.. it's more about having all those extra parts that can now break...

turbo seals, cracking manifolds, oil lines, leaks, charge pipes blowing off, boost creep, vacuum leaks, etc. all this great stuff that seams to happen all the time on turbo cars. It's not that the motor explodes it's just all the extra stuff to break, and the much much smaller margin for error..

If you build a n/a motor setup, unless you really go all out like deck plate and ITB's...any other setup is VERY easily made 99% OEM reliable...

Sleeve a GSR block, Pistons, rods, OEM bearings, water pump, timing belt, near OEM quality cams such as Jun, Spoon, Toda, etc...and you have a motor that is almost just as reliable as a stock motor, but makes 200-220+whp and revs to 9500rpms!

God knows my motor has never failed me and I rag on it like there was no tommorrow.. All Motor is great for street cars.. Boost is even better if you can afford to constantly take care of the problems and you can afford the extra money it will cost in the end..

I will concede that boost is the better way if you want to go fast. There's no arguing that at all..But all motor rocks!

 

I went all motor and I have a ruined motor to show for it. I know countless other people that have done the same thing. Boost, NA it doesn't matter. Once you go past bolt on's the potential for anything to happen increases...no matter which avenue you choose.

Yes going boost means more things can go wrong, but when someone cracks their motor open to replace pistons, cams, valves etc then same can be said about going N/A

Like I said before the same potential is there for things to go wrong which ever way you go. There are boosted guys that have never had a problem after they got it tuned right from that day until whenever.

Besides. For an extra 70-100hp a little more effort isn't asking much. It costs about the same to go either N/A or Turbo anyway so...........

Pick your poison. Know that if you are going to try to fore more power out of a engine and start replacing stuff (Internally) or adding parts (Internally/Externally) you can blow **** up regardless if you are N/A or FI.

 

all motor is fun. But boost will always win, period.