As Topic Says, I Have A 1994 Honda Accord EX Coupe, Original Engine, 140k Miles.

alright, today i was trying to relax and clear some stress out so i went to work on my car...

i installed a power inverter for my camera to plug into, it's hardwired to my car via the cig lighter power and ground, and reside's in the glove box.

i moved my v-afc from above the radio to next to the glove box, i unplugged the mid-connector while i re-ran wire, and re-attached the plug once i was done, all settings were retained.

then in the engine bay i was going to install a ported and polished throttle bodie that i have laying in my garage, i took off my intake, took off the vacuum hose on the top of the throttle bodie, disconnected the 2 sensors on the throttle bodie, took the top sensor off the throttle bodie to put it on the new throttle bodie, and right about then i decided i'd wait till i finished w/ the intake manifold i'd been workin on so i re-installed everything on the throttle bodie that was still on there.

so i wrap it all up, piece the car back together and fire it up, all the sudden the car is idling like absolute ****, it's shooting black smoke (burning oil i presume) out of my exhaust, i figure hmm, somthings up, so i listen to the motor, it sounds like it's missing.. i revv it a couple times, it recovers each time @ about 400-500 rpm so it's running really rough, i rev again, doesn't recover this time, stalls.

i start getting worried, i pull the plugs wondering if one's crapped out, they're all coated in some kinda black suit.. i replace them all w/ spares i keep for **** like this... fire back up, car still isn't running right, rev.... stall

start it again, drive it up and down my block once, starts throwing codes.... pull them, 41 & 7, 41 isn't any big news, had it before, it comes and goes... 7's new though... the throttle position sensor, i didn't drop any parts of the throttle bodie, so why would it be throwing a code now? how can i test to see if it's good? i need to get this fixed asap, my car goes to honda monday for the recall, and if it can't make it there... well obviously that's bad.

any ideas folks?

 

Wll the black smoke is caused by a very rich condition. It's excess fuel, not oil. (oil is bluish white). The soot you described on the plugs is also an indication of an overly rich A/F ratio. Sounds like you may have messed up your throttle position sensor. To test it:
Turn the ignition off.
Disconnect the 3pin connector
Turn the ignition on
Measure the voltage between the yell/blue terminal and the grn/blue terminal.
It should be aprox. 5 volts
If not check the voltage between the yell/blue wire and a good ground
Hope this helps

 

that's odd... i'm running rich? this didn't happen before the v-afc was installed, and all the settings on the v-afc are leaned out, nothins richened, so should i lean the mixture out more? as of right now i'm running a progressively leaner mix, i start the low end at -1, and by redline i'm -2.

i'll test the tps tommorow, that is the sensor on top of the throttle bodie and not on the side correct?

 

bump, as of this morning it's throwing a 3, 7, and 41, map/tps/o2

i gotta get this fixed, my car goes to honda monday for the recall, and at this point it won't make it.

 

i belive the accord runs damn well with bolt ons with stock fuel curve(unless you upgrade something to do with fuel..ie: injectors). The only thing i would do with the V-AFC is put vtec at 3500 and then add fuel accordingly. If you have not lowered VTEC then i wouldnt touch the fuel mixture. Just my opionon though.

Did you check your o2 sensor? Did you reset the ecu?

 

reset the ecu, i'm undoing the v-afc tommorow to see if things get cleared up w/ it outta the fuel systems buisness.

if that doesn't do it then i'm replacing the oem F.P.R., filter, spark wires, and distributor.

the car was filled up this afternoon, and i drove to downtown and back tonight, which burned 3/4 of a tank of gas, normally it would consume 1/8th or less. so somthin is WAY off.

the idle is rough, erratic, it sounds like it's missing also, which is why i'm investigating the ignition system to so i can be sure all cylinders are firing.

i've already replaced the following parts currently: the spark plugs, the fuel pressure regulator, and ran sea foam through the system, the reason i'll be replacing the fpr again is because i used one off of a intake manifold i had laying around, but i had to shade tree the connectors to get it to work, so i'm gonna get one from this yearmodel accord and try it as well.

and WhoNeedsVtec, i got your im thing, but it never showed any text so i dunno what's up w/ that.

if all the formentioned repairs don't remedy the problem then i'm gonna make a sound recording of my car to post here so ya'll can hear what i'm hearing.

 

All i said was : Does that thing in your profile really work? Im going to try it out...i used you as a refernce.

 

ohh the powerclick thing, hell if i know, all those services seem like a big scam to me, i outta probally take it outta my sig.

 

4 cel's deep now... 3/7/41/43

i'm loving this

 

Are you sure your ECU is good?

 

I'd put the original TB back on and see if the codes go away. it should at least get rid of the TPS CEL. that way you have one less code to try and troubleshoot.

 

it is the original tb, i changed my mind halfway through installing it wich is why the 3&7 codes have me so confused. dunno about the ecu, were currently trying to track down a spare 94-95 5 speed vtec ecu.