anyone make a rear big brake kit for prelude si? i have the front..

 

you don't need one, save your money...

 

i dunno doing mach 3 on I-26 and comming up on grannies is scary

 

Maybe you shouldn't be doing Mach 3 on public roads, space cowboy. It's irresponsible. Take it to the track (road, drag, auto-x), and try not kill anyone, or yourself on the way.

PS- 70% of your braking power is up front, the rear do a nominal amount of braking; if you want shorter braking distances, get stickier tires.

 

I have taught you well, young apprentice...

 

i hear ya Lee... lots of grannies doing like negative mach 3 on I-26 up on my end too. but, you really don't NEED big brakes on the back, but i guess it would be a good idea, i mean, those rear brakes are f*cking tiny....

 

i was being sarcastic.. i dont speed too much +7 usually..

 

.lets take the time, and defog some of the preconcieved notions surrounding brakes, ok? first and foremost, the brake DO NOT stop the car, the tires do. all the brake system is responsible for is changing one type of energy (kinetic) into another (thermal or heat); that is, the motion of the wheels, and the energy therin is dissipated into thermal energy via the brake system. Therefore, any 'improvments' you make to the brake system of your car (save the tires) wil only improve the systems ability to 1. transform the energy efficently, and 2. be less inclined to fatigue under high load; i.e. stopping over and over again from high speed, etc. Consequently, big brake kits, big rotors, ss lines, better fluid, and pads just make your brakes less succeptible to fade, or, heat fatigue, and w/ regard to bigger/slotted/drilled rotors just increase the bling factor.

with all due candor, if you want better pedal feel and less fade, get quality pads, fluids and ss lines, period. if you want to stop in a shorter distance, get the stickiest, safest street tire out there.

end of story.


ps- with respect to speeding, hey, everyone does it. just realize the risks you run if you drive w/ reckless abandon on public roads. tickets are expensive.



[Modified by bb6h22a, 7:04 PM 1/3/2003]

 

i gotta huge rotors in the front small in the back thats the problem i want looks not function...

 

ok... so, the science master has spoken :rolls eyes:... we know how the damn brakes work man, to put what you said in simpler form, brakes slow down the rotation of the wheels/tires, but if you've got shitty tires that don't grip, brakes won't do ****......


Lee, i hear ya, i know what you mean about the brakes in the back looking all teenie tiny and have the front ones huge as f*ck.... it just looks retarded, especially with some big wheels that show your brakes

 

about the only thing beneficial to a 5th gen would be the tires. If you upgrade the rotors, etc, it's going to be defeated when you need them most anyhow. Think about it. your upgraded calipers will grab tighter, your rotors giving more stopping power etc etc, but all the ABS computer see is "CRAP, THE WHEEL LOCKED!" and release the pressure.. defeating what all those upgrades were ment to do. Now the tires on the other hand, they will improve this setup by hanging on to the road better and not letting the wheel lock as easy. Just a though for those of you who haven't removed the ABS

 

I disagree with most of whats been said. Assuming that you want the handling and balance of the car to be the same at 20 as it is at 80, you'll want your f/r brake ratio to be the same.

If you want looks, Foliatech make fake rotors.

 

I agree with the fact that better tires are what's gonna help you stop ultimately, which becomes especially noticeable on a car w/o abs(not the later ludes obviously.) Anyhow, another point I was considering while reading this post is the ratio of "clamping force" or what have you between the front and the rear brakes. When someone upgrades only the front brakes and not the rear, master cylinder, or proportioning valve couldn't this cause the car to nose dive violently on hard stops, making it very diffcult to control/steer? Kind of off subject I know, but just a random thought for you guys doing the big brake swaps.

I guess what I'm saying is my only recomendations for brake upgrades are: SS lines, a good synthetic brake fluid that's been properly bled through the system(order on a 4th gen is r right,f left,r left,f right), a decent set of pads, and maybe a set of new stock size rotors if your old ones are close to out of spec-not cross drilled or slotted etc etc, just blanks from napa, or brembo if you need the name brand.
-my few cents worth
later all

 

Damn, where were you when I was having a discussion with a certain mod and being called a dumbass when I was saying that.


[Modified by ryanstev, 12:22 PM 1/4/2003]

 

as long as the thickness of the front and rear rotors remain the same everything will be fine. Read that as in you can't for example take brembo blanks and stick them up front, and take the older front rotors and relocate them to the rear. The thickness of the front rotors is greater than the rear (i believe it's something like 1.2 up front, .9 rear?). Anyhow, since the rear would then be THICKER, the calipers in the rear would actually grab first. This is a huge no-no for the performance oriented, as this would do the same thing as pulling your ebrake..... That's what you really have to watch for

 

i have a brake balance controller... i need bigger rears..

 

AEM makes one.

 

not for the rear of my car

 

No, you obviously don't know how the brakes work, or you didn't closely read my post. Probably b/c you were too busy condescending me while you read it. What slows the rotation of the wheel/tire is friction b/w the surface of the road and the tire itself; the stickier the compound, the more friction the interaction will generate. Also, you can have 'shitty' tires, but an upgraded brake system will do something; it'll efficently transform kinetic energy, into thermal, and dissipate it efficently. What I' was attempting to convey was that your meant stopping distance will not decreas UNTIL you start using stickier tires; that is, the only factor that will REDUCE stopping distances are the tires, period. Hence, if boostedh23si wants to avoid slamming into grannies while going mach 3 on the freeway, he needs to get stickier tires to reduce the mean distance. If he wants to consistently stop in the same distance, w/out fade then he should look into upgrading the system as mentioned above. Follow?

Also, there's no need for your eye rolling, this isn't high school, and I'm not arguing about which shade of blush goes better w/ your lipstick; no need for the primadonna attitude. Personally, to solve his braking inadequacies, mr. h23si, should pull off that pos bling bling big brake system and go back to using stock rotors, decent pads, and invest the money in tires.

I'm just trying to clear up misconceptions and, hopefully, save someone from spending money needlessly. If the concept was so self-explanitory, you should have endulged us w/ your oratory.

 

Fact is he's never going to lock up ANY tires going "mach 3" on the highway. Tires will definitly help you going 0-50 MPH, but much more than that and you'll simply need some massive brakes.

Ever try putting stock Prelude front rotors on the back? Maybe not possible but it would be better than stock right?

 

The f/r brake ratio should be the same as the f/r weight distrabution of the car. The same rule aplies to aerodynamics and suspension tuning. This will make the car more stable when braking in a turn and will act the same at 20mph or 80mph.

An idea I was throwing around was to move the front brakes to the rear and adding a balancer. The only problem is that of the parking brake and mounting. I haven't looked at it closly yet, but I was going to make brakets for the calipers. As for the pb, Wilwood suposedly makes mini calipers used for the parking brake.

 

You'll still want good tires. Tires will help at *ANY* speed. If i'm doing 80 and need to slam the brakes.. the calipers WILL stop the rotors easier if I have crappy tires. (I'm talking no ABS). Since the tires are less sticky, it's easier for the wheel to actually lock (IE> The brakes won't have to squeeze as hard to overcome the stickiness of the tires). Now with good tires, I'll have to lock the brakes MORE to get the wheels to slide. Very good at *ANY* speed. Just think about stopping on an icy road. That mimicks really shitty tires.. see how easy it is to lock your wheels up and slide? Now remove the snow or get studs, improves a buttload, and you never touched changing the brakes

 

I thought AEM makes a brake kit for the front and rear for the Prelude??

 

front and rear for new prelude.

 

this is so funny...

Damn Ricers w/ turbos....