I have owned my crx for a couple of years now, and I had the same motor in a civic before the CRX. The whole time that I have owned it it has ran pretty crappy between 2K-4K RPM's during partial throttle, with the exception of the time I had my VAFC. I now have hondata and the wideband checked out good as far as rich and lean goes, it was pretty much stoich the whole time. The only way I got it to run good with the vafc was to increase the fuel up to 14% in these rpm ranges. It seems to stumble and run rough (bogs) unless I give it some more gas. I have tried switching the O2's at the ecu and it just got worse, so I changed it back, I also bought 2 new O2's for it and my guage reads more accurately but it still runs the same. I am running a PR3 ecu with hondata stage 2, I have P&P head with Skunk2 Springs and retainers, type r valves, type r cams, 310 RC injectors, MSD 6AL, blaster 2 coil, and stock FPR. I don't really know what else to try so I am looking for help. Any Ideas?

 

any reason for the 310 cc injectors? sounds like you have too much fuel on tap, at the moment. my car USED to hesitate, when i first swapped it, the problem was solved by:

new o2 sensor
fuel filter
oil change
plugs/ wires

also put on a DC 4-1 that day, the car was faster, but this made no change in smoothness.

 

I have new plugs and wires also, new cap and rotor, DC header. The reason for the larger injectors is that I have my head ported which brings in more air thus needing more fuel. I know I do not necessarily need 310cc injectors, but at least I can run a little more fuel from them at less of a duty cycle as to where the stock ones would run at a higher duty cycle causing them to fail prematurely. Really I was wanting to know if the O2 sensor locations would cause that much of a problem becase they are at the collector now instead of the primary tubes like stock?

 

What happens if you pop back in the OEM injectors?

 

mine is kidda shitty too unless im ***** to the wall especiall from 2-4k, idk i havent changed (swaped) o2s, it seem everyone has these problem, i wonder if its some kinda sensor or vacuum diference in the ef and ed chasis. look at your intake manifold from a stock jdm 1st gen b16a, mad vacuum lines that arent hooked up hun?

i would love to find out how to fix this problem

 

There is no change when the stock injectors are in, I ran it for a year and a half that way and it still did the same thing. As for the vacum lines, I know one guy that eliminated all of the sensors that are on his firewall except for the map, and had a small hole in the vacum line that ran to his FPR, since hed did that and cleaned up all of the vacum lines he says his does not bog, but he also bypassed his charcoal cannister which I do not think is a good idea.

 

ttt

 

nopers...youre just used to the massive amount of power!

 

have you tried switching the o2's

 

I switched them (at the ecu) and replaced them and it made no difference except my A/F meter has a bunch more fluctuation now.

 

sounds like the same problem I have.
car bogs between 2-4k sometimes. once it switches to WOT it is fine.

 

I fixed the problem today! It may not be the best way to fix it but I tried anyway and the bogging stopped. The problem is 02 sensor related, the stock crx/civic comes factory with a 1 single wire 02 sensor, but the b16 requires 2 (1st gen of course) so everybody runs another wire for the second 02 sensor, and most of them probably don't use shielded wire like you should. Well then once you buy an aftermarket header, for instance DC, there is only one 02 hole near the collector, because it is designed for a 93+ B16, because thats when they came to the states, and those only use 1 02 sensor. So in my instance I had one 02 in the header, and the other in the cat, which placed them around a foot apart instead of side by side as stock is. One of the 02's read for cylinders 1&3 and the other reads for cylinders 2&4, but once you move your 02's out of the primary tubes of your manifold they both read all 4. When I was getting my hondata tuned I noticed a difference in reading between the 2 which I think was my problem. There are 2 solutions to this that I can figure out, but I am sure everyones knows them already. The first is to have 2 shielded wires from your ecu pin c8 and c16, these are ran to yor 02 sensors, you must have your 02 sensors located as close to eachother as possible, side by side, so then they get the same reading which reduces differences between the 2 02's causing it to run better. The other way, the way I did, it is to cut both wires down by the ecu, leaving yourself some room to work with at pins c8 and c16 and connect them together and soler them to the wire that runs to your factory 02 sensor that is shielded from the factory. I did it this way, some do not reccomend it but it worked for me, they are both getting the exact same reading and it runs 100% better. If you have any questions let me know. Sorry so long.