I put antiseize on my front wheel studs a week or so ago to ease the operation of removing and putting the lugs back on. Everything was fine and I had my technician properly torque it down.

Now, a week or so later, some of the lugs have backed off so far I was able to catch the wheel wobble before breaking!!!

Could this be due to improper torque spec or is the Anti-Seize just giving it too much "looseness" in there?

TIA

--migs

 

i'd think anti-seize is unesessary. The main thing is not to overtorque the wheels,

i always use torque wrench to make sure everything is in check, and 1-2 times after the wheel has been taken of.


[Modified by vtec.dc2, 8:02 PM 12/27/2002]

 

It is not recommended to put anti-sieze on the lugs because you can either over torque the lugs or the lugs can come loose like you have described.

 

ill tell you why...anti seize causes you to always overtorque..by a lot. think about the nature of what anti seize is...

 

Hmm, time to buy extended lugs and studs now!

 

I've used anti-seize compound for many years on many different cars with no loosening problems whatsoever.

On the other hand, if you do a search here, you'll find countless reports of stripped/broken studs due to not using anti-seize compound.

Your choice.

 

I would also recommend using anti-seize on wheel studs. With all the snow/rain water, wheel studs seize and break easily.

I've been using them for a long time and have not had the problem of the nut backing out.

 

I have been using antiseize on my studs for several years, since i started autocrossing with race tyres (swap at the event). Never broken a stud, always make sure studs are clean (brake cleaner) and apply a dab to each stud. Just be careful when threading the lugnuts and always torque to spec in order. I torque to aboyt 50-60 ft-lbs (by hand) in order, then to spec (80 ft-lbs) in order with a torque wrench, and i always check the torque before each session on the track.

 

jeesh man, you really haven't a clue...

use anti seize! the only thing that sucks about it if you are not paying attention, and get some on your sleeve and not notice, it will be all over the place in no time. i put some on a paper plate and use a small paintbrush to apply it. oh, works great on plugs too.

 

Yes, there is a down-side to using anti-seize on the studs like u mention. It can get damn messy and if ur not careful as it can get to ur clothes anytime ur working around the suspension area.

 

I use ARP moly lube. same kind you use for the headstuds. it doesn't make a complete mess and sticks to the stud very good. I applied it about a year ago and i havent had the need to reapply it.

 

he never does

 

I've been using anti-seize since 1994, when I was working as a mechanics assistant at a repair shop. It's good stuff if you ask me, just dab it on the studs in moderation.

 

Going back to the original question...

My guess: improper torque spec (not using a torque wrench, setting it to other than 80 ft-lb, or a torque wrench that's out of calibration).

 

Anti-seize rules

For anyone who swaps out their rims often, like I do, it makes life easy. Just don't goop it on, a little goes a long way. Never had a nut loosen on me.

Where your rims new? If they were you always have to check them after about 30-50 miles to re-torque.
Was the car on the ground when they were torqued?


[Modified by TodaSi, 1:24 PM 12/28/2002]

 

Just to mention one other possible cause of wheels working loose...

Make sure you're using lug nuts with the same shape seating surface as your wheels. (The seating surface is the area that comes in contact between the two.) Stock Honda wheels and lug nuts have a spherical (acorn) shaped seating surface. Most aftermarket wheels have a tapered (conical) shaped seating surface, and you should use aftermarket lug nuts that match.

 

Thanks for the reply guys.

nsxtcjr

 

Were they? If so which kind? When I first used my Rota wheels (on the track) the new lugs (Kyokugen) with fresh antisieze loosened finger loose all 5 on each front wheel. I too felt the wobble and came off the track. I think that the heat from the brakes caused the paint in the seating surface of the lugnuts to burn/melt/breakdown etc causing the lugs to be loose. I havn't had any problems since that incident.

 

The only bad thing about anti-seize is if you get it on your rotor. Use it and love it.

 

anti-sieze will give you a more accurate torque measurement. the friction between the metal nut and metal wheel stud can cause binding and prevent you from torquing to exactly 80ftlbs. i use permatex anti-sieze everywhere! i put it on wheel studs, brake caliper bolts, etc. a little dab will do ya. you can get it at pep boys and it comes with a little brush applicator in the cap.