So after a long night of work (yes, i know its just a intake manifold) I finally finished the project. It was definitely a learning experience and hopefully some of the stuff i was able to figure out was not in vain. Basically the ITR manifold bolts to the 1st gen B16A head with no complications. With that said, you will need some extra parts to get it working-

You have a choice to make when it comes to the IAT. Either purchase a new fuel rail to clear the location that the ITR manifold places it, or get an ODBII IAT and locate it where the OBDII cars do. I chose to leave the OBD0 IAT in its place, as it does not interfere with the FPR, you just cant plug it in. The donor IAT and harness plug came from a 2000 d16y8 sitting in my garage. It helped that i had a 99-00 Civic Si AEM CAI to use, so i have the hole and the grommet pre-installed - if you do not its off to kragen for a grommet and a unibit. Extended some wires, connected the same colors to each other, fired right up with no CELs. Hopefully nothing bad will come of this, but seems to work for now.




The Fast idle control valve has to be an ODBII one, there is no way around it. Again, thanks to the donor d16y8 i have sitting in the corner of my garage, couldnt have done it without ya

The fuel rail and FPR are both 1st gen b16, it bolted up with a few minor changes. I did not use the spacers like you usually do, if you omit those the injectors fit in perfectly between the manifold and the fuel rail. You will have to get some washers to put on the studs on top of the fuel rail, so the nuts will have something to squeeze onto. If you didnt use any washers the nuts would not have enough threads and the fuel rail would not be held tight.



For the throttle cable bracket, im using an HCP bracket that George @ HCP so graciously included in the mount kit i purchased from their fine establishment (www.hcpengineering.com) and all it needed were a few taps from a hammer to make it line up perfectly.



The initial test drive absolutely floored me. I was expecting to feel nothing, in fact i was dreading doing this even because i thought it would be a waste of 200 + new gaskets. Well was i ever wrong. Throttle response is night and day, and there is an amazing improvement in midrange pull, and even some gains up top. Butt dyno and "Friend hearing my car vtec down the road at midnight in the cold winter air" verified. Ill have to adjust my idle down a smidgeon in the morning, for now its off to bed, a Feel's ECU program awaits me in the morning

More pics in sig for those interested..




-Todd


[Modified by Count Blah, 1:20 AM 12/27/2002]


[Modified by Count Blah, 4:49 PM 12/28/2002]


[Modified by Count Blah, 7:55 PM 12/28/2002]


[Modified by Count Blah, 12:37 PM 12/30/2002]

 

what did you do with the vacumn hose near the idle control sensor? i had to 'T' mines up. overall, nice, what kind of mount kit is that, seems to give you more room to fit a header.

 

Very nice install and write-up. This should come in handy when i finally get around to doing my itr mani..... Are you planning to do a dyno run anytime soon, if so keep us posted.

 

I just capped it off, basically there is no use for it. I guess you could T it also, either way would work.

-Todd

 

Actually, on all 88 models and some 89's, the fast idle control valve is located on the firewall with the map sensor and purge cutoff selenoid. And on a PR3 or PW0, they do not use the fast idle control valve at all anyway, so it really isn't necessary for that situation. Good write up though, just make sure you don't over tighten the intake manifold bolts and snap any off (happened to a guy I know)

 

so your using 1st gen B16a fuel rail? and throttlebody?

 

Yes, that's what I'm doing with my IAT, is to tap to my aem intake tube.. I'm doing a Y8 mani conversion into the A6.. Nice work


[Modified by 4thGSi, 7:16 AM 12/28/2002]

 

i have heard that a skunk2 manifold allows you to use your OBD0 fast idle valve on the back of the manifold. anyone confirm this? a couple of friends have skunk2 manifolds, seems like they both used their stock sensors.

 

Yes the throttle body bolted up fine, used a new throttle body gasket from a 99 Si. The fuel rail and FPR are both 1st gen b16, it bolted up with a few minor changes. I did not use the spacers like you usually do, if you omit those the injectors fit in perfectly between the manifold and the fuel rail. You will have to get some washers to put on the studs on top of the fuel rail, so the nuts will have something to squeeze onto. If you didnt use any washers the nuts would not have enough threads and the fuel rail would not be held tight. Sorry i forgot about that part in the write up. Ill edit it now.

-Todd

 

damn, thats the hoses I want, still waiting for them to come in

Hey can you tale some pics of where you put your battery?? I am going to relocate my battery cause I need space for my big sausage intake

 

What kind of radiator hoses are those? They are phat as hell. Do they come in any other colors?

sean

 

what TB is that? doesnt look like an ITR one. the ITR TB has the MAP sensor right on the top of it. im probably wrong though.

also whats up with the IAT sensor why do you need? im assuming this isnt obb-0.
again i could be wrong.


[Modified by NA CRX Si, 10:22 PM 12/28/2002]

 

Yeah its a stock b16a throttle body, nothing special about it. As far as the IAT, the reason you cant use the stock one is that when you install the fuel rail, there is no way physically to connect the plug into the IAT. Even if you install it before you install the fuel rail, the rail will hit it and not mount correctly. There are 3 fixes, get a new fuel rail that places the FPR on the end over injector #1, make a plate to cover the stock IAT location in the manifold and relocate the stock IAT somewhere, or leave the stock IAT in the manifold and get a ODBII IAT and plug and locate it in the intake tube. Any of those options will work the same.

The hoses are Samco Sport hoses, are available in different colors, and can be bought from a seller on H-T named "bseries" , his name is Benson and he runs a shop in SF, CA. Very good businessman, I have sung his praises before

-Todd




[Modified by Count Blah, 3:44 PM 12/28/2002]

 

-Todd

 

Hey did you bolt it onto the spare tire bracket? What kind of battery bow is that? Looks like a tool box.

 

I kind of McGuyver'd it. The battery box is from Kragen, its $12. Also at kragen they have a battery bolt-down kit for like $4. Then i went to the local Rice shop and got a cheap battery tie down bar for 10 bucks, for a 99-00 Civic Si style application. I used the spare tire screw-down hole to secure the front tie down, and then drilled a small hole in the floorboard for the rear tie-down. Put the battery bar across the battery and secure it down. Pretty simple install. The wiring is just standard 4ga amp power wire from a local stereo shop. Ran it straight to the starter, and then from the starter to the fust box.

-Todd

 

yeah its good, but if you compete at the track its not legal. you need a sealed box with a cutoff switch or a aluminum box with a certain thickness wall.

 

Yeah im not into sanctioned road racing, until the WC Honda Challenge comes over if it ever does. Autocross and HPDEs basically, this will work fine for what i need it for.

 

I know this sounds stupid, but what happens if you have a flat tire? and can you put stuff on the battery box? Sorry if this isn't your daily driver, i just wanted to relocate, but i didnt know if it would interfere with things.

 

I guess you can put the cardboard back on top of the battery and put the spare on top of the board

nice job, I am going to do mine next

 

Good writeup and helpful (if blury) photos. Now I've just got to find an IM in Australia.........

 

Fixed all but one pic

HTH

-Todd

 

What about the extra radiator hose metel line thing coming out of the left bottom side of the manifold if your looking at the motor from the front.. Its a small one like 1/2 wide.. I herd you have to plug it i may be wrong though.