Battery draining, what could be symptons..
Well it could have an open somewhere, but how can i go about finding the open. Like its not my daily but whenever i go out to start the car the battery is dead. I ahve went through 3 batterys in the last 3 months. I dont know what it could be or where it could be at... Any suggestions?
[Modified by CimorelliCRX, 9:59 AM 12/27/2002]
[Modified by CimorelliCRX, 9:59 AM 12/27/2002]
Tested alternator its good, i mean like if i start the car and run it all day, but let it sit for more than a 10 hour span, its dead, and its not my daily so sometimes it can go 2-3 days without being started... And its not normal, i got a drain somewhere, i got this brand new battery sunday and it was dead on tuesday...
check your fuse box under the hood and make sure that you have both of the small connections on the box and dont have one of them grounded.
this is a very good thread:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=330512
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=330512
well what happend to me before:
the sensor that turns the brake light on wasnt in the correct place causing the lights to stay on at all times...... not that this would be your problem, but check for anything that might be on...
the sensor that turns the brake light on wasnt in the correct place causing the lights to stay on at all times...... not that this would be your problem, but check for anything that might be on...
if your battery was drained one long cold day most likely it allowed the plates to freeze in your battery and making your battery work like shtuff. So if thats the case, buy a new battery, they aren't that expensive and its better than having a dead car.
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Haha i just noticed in the subject i put syptoms, the symtoms are battery is draining, i know that haha.
Anyway, the only electrical thing I have in my car is my tach(no stereo, no nothing else). The Tach is hooked up to the key on wire of the stereo. And its grounded to the stereo too.
I dont even have a dash clock. There are a few electrical connections that go to some of the harnesses that are ripped off, from when the car was stolen, but it ran fine for a while, but..
[Modified by CimorelliCRX, 9:59 AM 12/27/2002]
Anyway, the only electrical thing I have in my car is my tach(no stereo, no nothing else). The Tach is hooked up to the key on wire of the stereo. And its grounded to the stereo too.
I dont even have a dash clock. There are a few electrical connections that go to some of the harnesses that are ripped off, from when the car was stolen, but it ran fine for a while, but..
[Modified by CimorelliCRX, 9:59 AM 12/27/2002]
like they said on the other post... use a multimeter on the ampmeter reading...
check to see if ur alternator voltage regulator its causing the drain.....
there is a lot of stuff that can go wrong and cause a drain...
u can have bad gnds...
bad electronic component that significantly sucks juice (alternator, voltage regulator, instruments inside car, starter, .. maybe u got a load1... but i dont think so since u havent said anything about a code 20...
maybe a cable its being pinched... or just some cable got melted, or so... batttery terminals that are acid nasty.. cause bad conections wich cause a lot of resistance.....
anyways.... best best its to try with an ammeter and see if it sucks juice , and start disconecting fuses one by one until u see a drop of drain...
check to see if ur alternator voltage regulator its causing the drain.....
there is a lot of stuff that can go wrong and cause a drain...
u can have bad gnds...
bad electronic component that significantly sucks juice (alternator, voltage regulator, instruments inside car, starter, .. maybe u got a load1... but i dont think so since u havent said anything about a code 20...
maybe a cable its being pinched... or just some cable got melted, or so... batttery terminals that are acid nasty.. cause bad conections wich cause a lot of resistance.....
anyways.... best best its to try with an ammeter and see if it sucks juice , and start disconecting fuses one by one until u see a drop of drain...
YOu do have a short somewhere. Here is one to check-the e-brake has a switch under the handle or for that matter one of the seatbelt switches. To test with the ammeter-take the p[ositive lead off the battery (very carefully) and connect that lead to the ammeter red wire and the black ammeter to the batter. Now take out each fuse-one at a time-until there is no reading. I seriously doubt that either the computer or alternator power from the Ignition switch are active-but if that is the case that is the switch that needs replaced.
well i will be messing with this in a few days, hopefully i could get it now, i figured to check the power loss through the battery but didnt know what to do after that, but now i got the idea..
Funny that this subject came up. I have a tach in my car and that is all. And I have been having the same problem that you are having. I came to find out that it was my tach that was draining the battery! I used a ohnmeter and a test light to find the drall on the battery. The red wire on my tach was going to my fuse box underneath the dash I think its fuse number "8" it runs to the tailights and headheadlights. Soon as I pulled the wire out the drall went away on the ohnmeter and the test light went out. First I pulled every fuse on the car first. Sometimes the drall will be so small that the test light won't even come on. To make a long story short I ended up taking out my autometer tech. And waiting for a email from autometer. If it is your tach that is draining you battery you can just hooked up a swithch to it and shut it off whenever you get out of the car, just a suggestion if you want to do that.
thats crazy, its the only other electrical thing that can cause it other than my ecu, or gauge cluster, lol. I mean it could be a switch or something that went bad but. I gotta find the the problem. Ill get it sometime next week, maybe tomorrow if the weather is nice. Thanks guys for the help.
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djrubio
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