How hard is it to install new Door Glass?
Ive got the door completely stripped down and cleaned out all the old broken glass. I see the rails and sliders that the window sits on and slides up and down in. There are two tabs on the rail that appear to have some sticky glue thing that actually holds the bottom of the window. I imagine I would have to get 2 new tabs and attach those to the window. Only thing Im not too sure about is knowing where to attach the tabs on the bottom of the window and how to make sure they are aligned properly. Im probably gonna end up taking it to a dealer to have them do it, but I bought a used window from anothet Teg and thought I could give it a shot depending how difficult it is. Any suggestions?
I was under the impression that the tabs should be pre-installed on the glass. That is how the replacement glass came when I replaced a window on my Civic.
I was under the impression that the tabs should be pre-installed on the glass. That is how the replacement glass came when I replaced a window on my Civic.
Very very easy. Just slide it in there and bolt it to the regulator. It helps to have a freind hold it in place while you bolt it in.
Mike
Mike
Worked like a charm
For those of you that may run into this situation, here is the install process. It is pretty straight forward and only takes some basic common sense after understanding how the window needs to be situated in the door. I was going to take it to the dealer because I had no clue how it was done, but Im glad I took some time to figure it out for myself.
First things first, you will want to remove the door panel. Pretty simple, basically just unscrew the door handle plastic, and the arm rest plastic pieces. Its only one screw for each. Then just pop off the panel starting at the bottom, and the lift it off. Dont forget to unplug the harnesses for the power windows, locks, and mirror control(if replacing driver side) when removing the panel.
Once removed, there is a plastic sheet covering the inside of the door. Not sure if this is really needed or not(probably for dust protection), but I just cut mine off. The glue that holds that on is quite messy though so watch out because it can get all over everything. You may also want to remove the door speaker(phillips screw driver), mirror(3 8mm nuts), and the outside molding(about 8 clips on the lip at the top) at the top of the window, this made it easier for me. But you may be able to do it without removing them.
Clean out all old broken glass from inside the door. There are little holes at the bottom of the door that allow the glass to "drain" out. Takes a little time, but you definitely want to get it all out to avoid rattling noises and/or problems with the new window. BE SURE TO CLEAN OUT THE GUIDES/SLOTS THAT THE WINDOW MOVES IN. I had a TON of glass jammed and stuck in there.
In my case, the car has no power, therefore unable to put the window(whats left of it) all the way down. So I left it all the way at the top of the door where it was when it was broken into. Wiggle and squirm your way through the openings on the inside of the door, and remove the old tabs from the broken window, there are 2 10mm bolts holding them on. Pay attention to how the tabs are attached because you will need to know how to reattach the new window tabs. Now you are set to install the new window.
The new window DOES come with the tabs already attached, something I was NOT aware of before getting the window. Someone stated this earlier in the post, and this is what gave me the confidence to try the install. It really does make the install that much easier.
From the outside of the door, begin to slide the window into place. Dont try this alone, make sure to have someone else on hand to help hold the window. It is important that you get the window into the "slots" that is moves up and down in, as much as possible, when sliding it into place. Make sure the "rail" that is used to hold the bottom of the window and tabs is on the correct side. In my case, the bottom "rail" was all the way up because I had no power to lower it. Not sure if this is the easiest way or not, but it worked well enough.
Once you get the window partly into the slots, you will need to slide it ALL THE WAY DOWN, as far as it goes, until you can get the upper slider guide into the slot. Try not to force it too much. If you are forcing it, try again until it slides down pretty easy. The only way to get that "guide" into the slot is to start at the bottom of the slot where you can manuver the guide into the slot. You will see what I mean when you are installing it.
Once you get that into the slot, slide the window all the way back up as far as you can go, making sure the window is sliding freely in the guides/slots. When you get it to the top, you will have to manuver the bottom "rail" to line up the tabs. Once you line up the tabs, you can then put back in the 2 10mm bolts and viola, you are done.
Reinstall all the panels, outside upper molding, speaker, and mirror(if necessary) and you just saved yourself some cash.
So basically I paid 120 for a used window, and no cost for labor. Not sure how much a new window and labor would be to take it to a dealer, but Im sure it would be over 300 beans. It really isnt as long or difficult a process as I may appear in my steps. Took no more than 30-45min. I just tried to be as detailed as I could.
[Modified by RTW DC2, 1:44 AM 12/25/2002]
[Modified by RTW DC2, 1:45 AM 12/25/2002]
[Modified by RTW DC2, 1:48 AM 12/25/2002]
For those of you that may run into this situation, here is the install process. It is pretty straight forward and only takes some basic common sense after understanding how the window needs to be situated in the door. I was going to take it to the dealer because I had no clue how it was done, but Im glad I took some time to figure it out for myself.
First things first, you will want to remove the door panel. Pretty simple, basically just unscrew the door handle plastic, and the arm rest plastic pieces. Its only one screw for each. Then just pop off the panel starting at the bottom, and the lift it off. Dont forget to unplug the harnesses for the power windows, locks, and mirror control(if replacing driver side) when removing the panel.
Once removed, there is a plastic sheet covering the inside of the door. Not sure if this is really needed or not(probably for dust protection), but I just cut mine off. The glue that holds that on is quite messy though so watch out because it can get all over everything. You may also want to remove the door speaker(phillips screw driver), mirror(3 8mm nuts), and the outside molding(about 8 clips on the lip at the top) at the top of the window, this made it easier for me. But you may be able to do it without removing them.
Clean out all old broken glass from inside the door. There are little holes at the bottom of the door that allow the glass to "drain" out. Takes a little time, but you definitely want to get it all out to avoid rattling noises and/or problems with the new window. BE SURE TO CLEAN OUT THE GUIDES/SLOTS THAT THE WINDOW MOVES IN. I had a TON of glass jammed and stuck in there.
In my case, the car has no power, therefore unable to put the window(whats left of it) all the way down. So I left it all the way at the top of the door where it was when it was broken into. Wiggle and squirm your way through the openings on the inside of the door, and remove the old tabs from the broken window, there are 2 10mm bolts holding them on. Pay attention to how the tabs are attached because you will need to know how to reattach the new window tabs. Now you are set to install the new window.
The new window DOES come with the tabs already attached, something I was NOT aware of before getting the window. Someone stated this earlier in the post, and this is what gave me the confidence to try the install. It really does make the install that much easier.
From the outside of the door, begin to slide the window into place. Dont try this alone, make sure to have someone else on hand to help hold the window. It is important that you get the window into the "slots" that is moves up and down in, as much as possible, when sliding it into place. Make sure the "rail" that is used to hold the bottom of the window and tabs is on the correct side. In my case, the bottom "rail" was all the way up because I had no power to lower it. Not sure if this is the easiest way or not, but it worked well enough.
Once you get the window partly into the slots, you will need to slide it ALL THE WAY DOWN, as far as it goes, until you can get the upper slider guide into the slot. Try not to force it too much. If you are forcing it, try again until it slides down pretty easy. The only way to get that "guide" into the slot is to start at the bottom of the slot where you can manuver the guide into the slot. You will see what I mean when you are installing it.
Once you get that into the slot, slide the window all the way back up as far as you can go, making sure the window is sliding freely in the guides/slots. When you get it to the top, you will have to manuver the bottom "rail" to line up the tabs. Once you line up the tabs, you can then put back in the 2 10mm bolts and viola, you are done.
Reinstall all the panels, outside upper molding, speaker, and mirror(if necessary) and you just saved yourself some cash.
So basically I paid 120 for a used window, and no cost for labor. Not sure how much a new window and labor would be to take it to a dealer, but Im sure it would be over 300 beans. It really isnt as long or difficult a process as I may appear in my steps. Took no more than 30-45min. I just tried to be as detailed as I could.
[Modified by RTW DC2, 1:44 AM 12/25/2002]
[Modified by RTW DC2, 1:45 AM 12/25/2002]
[Modified by RTW DC2, 1:48 AM 12/25/2002]
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