My 93 accord had experienced overheat lately. The cause of it was a big hole on the road when I exit freeway, then the shock from the road broke my radiator pipe. Then I took it to the shop and replaced a new radiator. After I got my car back, it started to overheat after 2-3 days of use. I figured out that the cause of the overheat was the coolen won't go back to the radiator after they goes to the white bottle near the radiator. I took my car back to the shop and they said that they couldn't find the problem until they used a chemical to test the coolen and it showed that it consist of some chemical which should not be found in the coolen. So they told me that the circulation (pressure) of the cooling system had been damaged since my first overheat; therefore, the extra coolen which goes to the white bottle won't go back to the radiator. If I have to fix it, it will cost $1000. $1000 is just too much for my 4th aT accord.... therefore i used a counter solution which is use a pump to pump the coolen from the white bottle back to the radiator when there is too much coolen in there..... Anyone know a better solution to solve this problem or doubt about what the shop told me? Seriously reply only, don't tell me to get a new car.

 

let me get this straight, they are charging you $1000 because coolant will not flow from your overflow tank(white container) back to your radiator? sounds like your shop is trying to rape you

 

i'm not sure how long you won your accord for, but if it's not for long and the service history is incomplete, it maybe the water pump. You see some cheap skates, and used car dealers will often just change the main timing belt on the car.

Proper maintance recommends change of main timing belt and water pump. It's a must! the balance shaft timing belt and the cam and crank seals should be changed also.

my first 4th gen accord I bought was sold to me with the great benefit of a changed timing belt. The guy told me he saved me like $400.00. Meanwhile 10,000 km later my car was overheating. Cause? rusted out properel inside the pump was ineffective at actually doing what it's supposed to -- pumping the water. Hence I had to do pretty much a timing belt change all over just to access the pump. You get the pic.

In order to test the pump, loosen up the clamp on the upper rad hose, at the engine side of it. When the engine warms up (the lower hose will get hot as the thermostat opens up) touch the upper rad hose. If the pump is working properly the pressure of the coolant will make it nice and firm. If your upper rad hose is flacid, remove the upper rad hose and look for the flow of the coolant. If the pump works properly it wll gush out of the engine... If it's failed the watter will trickle out of the engine block.

The $1000.00 repair bill sounds like a bullshit of a shop that things they found an idiot that'll pay it.

 

Damn, 1000 bucks. Definitely go somewhere else. Try replacing the thermostat first. It's very cheap and easy. You could get a new engine for less than 1000 bucks!!

 

wow, 1000$ and you got a nice swap. The water pump thing sounds about right to me. If your pump isn't pumping the water into the engine, would'nt that cause the water in the radiator to heat up and overflow into the overflow bottle?
I'd say try water pump and it never hurts to replace the thermostat...it's an easy replacement and doesn't cost much.
As hard as that knock sounds it could have caused your water pump to take a poop. My pump just went out in my 85 accord adn it killed my motor so try that.

 

Actually I did the repair in 2 different shops. I changed the water pump and timing belt at the shop located @ west covina. Because the shop that I usually go to closed for a month. And it was the first overheat incident which i saw coolen leaking under the engine and my car overheat. After I got my car back from the west covina shop, I experienced the 2nd overheat incident after a few days. Which you all know was caused by a big hole on the freeway exit. I waited a week then take it to the shop near my house where they reopen after they came back from vocation... and that time they changed a new radiator for me. The reason why they charge so much is because they talk about the compression of the whole cooling system was messed up from the last overheat. So air came into the engine and affect the cooling system.

 

That would be bullshit.

 

I second that. What shop told you this? I'm familiar with the SGV area.

 

I went to the one near New and Garvey. Right next to the West... something burger.