Looks like the front shocks' firmness can also be adjusted by rotating the shaft (according to their poor instructions). Is this so? Does this also apply to the rear shocks?

Can't say I'm too excited about this feature, if this is the case.. I'd prefer to have just the **** as the only way to adjust. Now I'm not sure if I'm working off the same base firmness when the **** is all the way "closed".

Someone enlighten me. Thanks.

 

I don't think so.. unless the new Koni Yellows are different.. mine are about 3+ years old... anyway when you insert the **** and turn it.. isn't it a shaft inside the shock rod/shaft that rotates? I don't see how the shaft/shock rod would rotate via the **** after its tightened down and from what I recall (I'm not at my car.. nor can I go out to it right now.. at work)... the rods and thread doesn't move as I rotate the ****..

I think the adjuster is inside/housed by the shock rod/shaft... otherwise if the shaft rotates the jamb nuts and shock rod would move also making it looser or tighter against the top cap as you adjust from firm to soft? that doesn't sound right..

or maybe I'm not understanding what your asking.. but from how I see it.. I think the adjuster is a rotating shaft w/in the outer shock rod/shaft....

how I adjust mine is.. I turn it to all the way soft (it stops) then I notice my hand movements and my turns of the wrist.. and adjust them all this way...

 

yeah, there is the **** and the shaft within the shaft, so to speak, to adjust the firmness.. what's throwing me off is that they included instructions on how to adjust firmness by rotation the entire shaft (as you would adjust koni reds, i believe).

of course, that kind of adjustment can only be done with the shock uninstalled. i don't expect the shaft to be able to rotate once installed.

i'm just hoping they included those other instructions by mistake. i'd like to know that i'm working off the same base setting with the ****.


[Modified by reno96teg, 11:42 AM 12/18/2002]

 

both the front and rear can be adjusted with those lil control ***** they supply-note don't leave em on in the engine bay unless you want dents in your hood. another word of advice -VERY IMPORTANT!!!!!!- DO NOT run with them all the way turned one way or the other. if you have it all the way turned in(right tighty) hte damping characteristcs will get harder but leave at least a half turn from the full stiff setting and the same with the sof t setting. otherwise you will blow the seals and waste the 500+ u spent on em

 

Actually, I'd say 1/4 from either extreme should keep you within a safe margin.

 

a full 360 degree turn from full soft is full firm, correct?

 

On mine, full soft to full firm is 1.75 turns...

 

where are you getting this information? I always turn them to full soft (as far as it will go) when I go on road trips (very often), and I have had them on full stiff (as far as it will go) for racing. I've had these shocks for almost a year now w/ no problems, somehow I think there would be something in the instructions about this if it were true.

BTW The instructions are the way they are so that anyone of any language can use them. I had no problems understanding the instructions that came w/ my Koni shocks.

Reno, maybe you could post a pic of the instructions in question that you were referring to?

 

i ws informed by the people at koni about this. a quarter turn would suffice but they reccommended a half turn. This, they said, is the main reason most koni's are sent back to be fixed. i would definitely listen to what they have to say over hearsay. if you don't believe me call em yourself!!! they are on the web go to google and search for koni. by the way i was a suspension specialist for the trek National mountain bike team and this information corrolates over from my knowledge and background from there. dampers should not be fully opened or fully closed you will have a greater chance of blowing the seals or getting what they call back pressure on the shock. back pressure happens when the shock fully compress and will not return because of a small pocket of air under the dmaper. isf this happens you're pretty much screwed and the shock has to go off for a rebuild. any more questions?

 

patrick, you're right, i spoke too soon.. instructions became clear after examining the diagrams for a bit longer..

anyhow, tonight i'll post a pic of that one sheet that is baffling me (in the sense that i don't think it should apply to koni yellows).

 

if u do mess up the seals is it coverd under warranty by koni? thanks

 

it better be since the instructions say nothing about it.

 

that is usually determined by Koni, you'll probaly have to pay for labor but they will usually cover the parts

 

ok, here is the instruction sheet that i was talking about:



and yes, i know that i'm supposed to adjust them like this (the white ****):


i've concluded that they just accidently included instructions for koni reds.

 

yep, my shocks did not come with any sheet like that. A mistake it was (yoda voice lol).

 

for auto-x i run soft in front, firm in rear

 

hey I got the same instructions with my koni full coilovers....I posted up too but noone knew what I was talking about..I guess they are for the red's...I did what the instructions said tho..hopefully nothing bad happens...had them on for about four months now and no probs...yet..

 

never heard of the full turn either way nonsense about yellows... but i'll take your word for it. Only driven a few times on full firm/full soft.. I usually keep it pretty hard though. My girl likes it haha.

by the way, you'll LOVE them.

//Alex

 

my instructions didn't look anything like that.. it was 1 long rectangular sheet in many diff languages w/ an illustration of the **** on the shock and an arrow towards firm... I'm not at home right now so I can't look it up.. but I know for sure my instructions from my older Koni's (ordered them over 3 yrs ago) looked nothing like that..

 

I think that turning of the shaft is for other cars. On my buddy's Koni Yellows for his 240sx you have to take the strut off the car and turn that to adjust the strut. I think with Hondas though you just turn that ****. So I would disregard those part of the instructions.
I've seen with alot of these companies, especially with Japanese or other countries products, have horrible instructions. Its not very hard to make them coherant and hire an English speaking person who can draw diagrams, instead of these guys half-assing it. . You pay hundreds of dollars for these high qulaity performance struts and they can't make a simple diagram? Dumb asses.