are camber kits good for track racing? if so wat kind should i get im thinking of ingalls or skunk2s? I have a gsr wit H&R racing springs(red) and itz pretty low probably a 2.5 drop in the front!







[Modified by G3gsr, 9:58 AM 12/18/2002]

 

A few people are using the Skunk2 kit. There flaw seems to be the nuts and the gloss finish - you need to replace the nuts in the sliding bit with ones that have a larger head and use a star washer. And also sand off some of the finish. Otherwise the arms will slip if you hit a curb hard.

 

I couldn't get the Ingalls not to slip on the street, much less on the track.

As the monkey mentions, just about everyone running the Skunk2 kit has had it slip. Mine moved once, I cranked it down and it hasn't moved in 5 more events. Upon reading the thread about replacing the bolts, I did go out and buy some good quality hex-head bolts and some star washers and bolts.

I can't remember the bolt needed and cannot find the thread either.

 

It depends too on the rules of the class you are interested in. Replacement arms aren't legal in SCCA Improved Touring.

Kirk

 

i think i remember seeing a petition to get camber arms legal in autox SP class... what are the chances of camber arms being legal in IT?

 

Very not even a little bit at all remotely likely - or something like that.

Kirk

 

negative camber is good! (in the front) toe is bad and is what kills the tires the fastest. imo, leave the front alone except to get more camber and use a camber kit in the rear to get your rear camber about 1 degree less then your front. afaik, totally illegal in IT and Street Prep, legal in street touring.

nate-who has -1.7fr and wants more

 

Kirk mentions a very important point about what is permitted. Ingalls can be used for AutoX but not for IT. My Civic has fully adjustable Ingalls arms in the rear and slide plates up front-this setup has worked perfectly for 3 years daily and autocross. The Prelude has the Ingalls sliding anchor bolts in the rear and Specialty ball joints up front and that setup is perfect even after many hours of HPDE, an off course spin and a lot of road miles. Our CRX is being set up with Specialty "ecentric" bushing camber bolts up front and shims in the rear for Improved Touring (this is a race car only).

What I'm getting at here is that you must plan your install based on the intended (long term) use of the car. As to the suggestion that "camber is better..." there is some truth to that, but again we must look at rule books and see where they draw the line. All of my cars have some negative camber as that is how they were built by Honda. Do I need or want more-for the street - no for the race car maybe.

BTW: unless there is some compelling reason why the assembly from Skunk2 needs to have the surface changed in some way-I would only use high strength star type washers. Has anyone contacted Skunk and advised them of this. I do know that SPC andIngalls have similar products that work without mods.
The combination of incorrect toe-in and excessive negative camber will always be a reason for serious tire wear.

 

The bolt size for the Skunk 2 arms is 6 mm X 16-20mm. It depends on if you want to put nylock type nuts on the exposed bolt threads (to help keep them from loosening) or just want them to end inside the 'plate'. I honestly don't know if you need to remove the powder coating on not. I do know that when mine slipped, the powder coating was damaged. I sanded it smooth. I didn't use a star washer. I replaced the bolt with a flange 10.8 part. I removed the supplied washer & lockwasher. I used a nylock on the bottom of the balljoint 'plate' to keep the bolt from backing out. The supplied soft split type lockwasher is the problem, IMHO.
NO problems for the whole season.