siffredi

i've look at the skunk 2 one and love the idea but theirs only an 1/8 " of material to hold on the 4 allen bolts for ajustment does any one make a good camber kit? similar but better than that!

gents97civ

I have the skunk 2 pro and I'm very happy with it. Just make sure you loctite the allen bolts.

dohcVTECeg2

i have the skunk2 pro series kit aswell and have had no problems whatsoever with it. have been using it for a good while now

siffredi

i'm not too concerend about them coming loose in the treades but tearing out.Like i said i like the idea instead of swivel ball joint and oblong bolts and stuff but i just think that their to weak for the beating i give my car.

suspendedHatch

You are absolutely correct sir. All the front camber kits suck. You take your chances by having them.

I have the SPC upper ball joint and even tightened all the way down (which is a real pain in the *** to do in the wheel well), they give ever so slightly. I'm going to get them welded in.

AutoXer

The Skunk2s have been redesigned to fix those issues. There are some good camber kits, but they're for racing as they mostly add camber, and are pretty expensive. You don't need a camber kit on the street, just get an alignment.

Cain Marko

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AutoXer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The Skunk2s have been redesigned to fix those issues. There are some good camber kits, but they're for racing as they mostly add camber, and are pretty expensive. You don't need a camber kit on the street, just get an alignment.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Mine definitely reduced camber, a lot. I got the newer generation kit and we took camber down to -.5 degrees, which is acceptable for stock, and I am lowered over 3.5 inches.

And an alignment wont do **** without a camber kit, unless you shim the UCA which is kinda risky, you are just better off buying the camber kit.

IHateJDM

you can check out the ingall's kit, its a different design.

AutoXer

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cain Marko &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Mine definitely reduced camber, a lot. I got the newer generation kit and we took camber down to -.5 degrees, which is acceptable for stock, and I am lowered over 3.5 inches.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's what I meant. The 'street' kits he's complaining about are meant to reduce camber to make money on the misconception that camber wears tires.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cain Marko &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
And an alignment wont do **** without a camber kit, unless you shim the UCA which is kinda risky, you are just better off buying the camber kit.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's simply not true. During race season, I run -3* (sometimes more) camber, with zero toe, and have no uneven wear at all on super soft rubber. I even get longer wear on my race tires than some do on the street with the same rubber.

The reason is, when looking down on your car, toe looks like this / \ so your tires aren't pointing straight. With 0* camber, this scrubs the whole surface of the tire down (wearing faster than normal). When you have alot of neg camber and toe (which is what happens when you lower the car without an alignment) the camber exaggerates the wear on the inside edge. So while camber can have an effect on uneven wear, it's not the cause.

When I have my track suspension on, I have to have 0 toe, or I get inside wear because of all the camber I run. When I put on the winter gear, I can run alot more toe, since the camber is within stock limits. I'm at 1/16" total right now, and have had no uneven wear on the snows. Doing that with my summer rubber and suspension would scrub the inside down within a few miles.