I plan on using RevHard's stage 2c Turbo kit on a H22 engine from the Plelude-S. The kit includes the following:
+Cast Iron Manifold
+NUTEC T3/T04E Hybrid Turbo (eff. to 450HP)
+Deltagate (9-12 psi)
+Vortech BOV
+2.5" alum. charge pipe
+2.5" Downpipe
+2.25" bent pipe
+Fuel Regulator
+High Pressure FP
+steel braided oil line
+Oil line return
+high Pressure FL
+High Pressure silicon hose

Taken into consideration I dont want to **** up my engine, clutch, ect, what else should I DEFINITLY buy right away, what Internals?
What gauges are absolutley necessary?
What should I plan to get soon?
What should my biggest concern be when it comes to the safty of the engine?
What do you recommened by the way of an Intercooler or Injectors?

THANKS!

 

one thing i am learning in my quest for positive manifold pressure is that when you think it might be too much or you might be going too far...do it! you cant overbuild a motor epsecially when preparing for boost, definitely get lower compression endyn rollerwave pistons, eagle rods, ACT clutch, larger injectors, bigger fuel pump, adj fpr, some method for tuning the list could go on for days buts its all a matter of how long you want the thing to last under boost, the more you build up the less you have to worry about

 

From what I've been told by quite a few sources (not from experience), there's a learning curve when it comes to turboing an engine. The learning curve a lot of times involves blowing the thing up. The best way to avoid this is to either have someone who's done it before available to help you, or purchase an aftermarket ecu.

Ideally both.

Don't know how much truth there is to all this, but if I was turboiong an engine that I care about, I would definately purchase an aftermarket ecu.

 

I don't work with H22's really but I have with B18C turbos... Running your same kit... For your motor you will have to sleeve it which is probably cool with you if you got the money cuz you can just run more boost... My friend's sleeved GSR turbo EK has a setup that consists of this... B18C sleeved with JE 9.0:1 pistons, Crower rods, Portflow head, Victor X manifold, RC 900's, Hondata 4b, RevHard Stage 2C turbo kit w/ a straight T04 turbocharger, Turbo Innovations 42.5mm wastegate, Blitz SBC and i'm probably missin some stuff but i'm tired right now... It made 505whp on 22lbs... For your motor you will have to sleeve it anyway to run low or lower compression pistons, whatever you choose, aftermarket rods, Port the head (I would go through Portflow, Tom does awesome work), For tuning i would just slap a hondata 2b, 3b, or 4b system and run bigger injectors than you need to... If you wanna run anywhere from 12lbs. to 28lbs. 900's should be fine... Lemme know if you have any other questions... Latez

 

A thing you have to tell us is hoe much boost or power you're planning on running. People here are telling you to sleeve and use low compression pistons and these may be good things, but I highly doubt they are necessary if you're planning on running 4psi or such.

In fact, I'm going to say that while running aftermarket internals might give you less risk of blowing your engine, if you're running very low boost they might be more harmful in the long run and you shouldn't go too crazy with them. I say this because while aftermarket parts may be stronger, I refuse to believe that they last as long as stock factory parts.

Take a Top Fuel dragster for example. It might make 3,4,6k horsepower or god knows how much...but even if you de-tuned it to make 500hp and put it in a street car, it's still probably not going to last a fraction of what a regular engine would.

 

Thanks for all the posts. i do plan on pushing a high boost, so I will be sleeving and putting in Low compression pistons. I want to have a reliable 16-22 lb everyday driver.

 

Here is what i recommend you do. Buy boost and oil pressure gauges, buy a vafc or safc so you can control the fuel, buy arp head studs, buy an ignition system and you can be safe running 10psi. if you want to run anymore than that buy je pistons and maybe like a set of eagle rods, an act xtss clutch kit, rc 310cc injectors, str fuel rail, vortech fmu and a 255 lph in tank fuel pump. let me know if you need any of this stuff.

 

If you plan on running 18+ PSI your going to need one hell of a computer.

A V-AFC just won't cut it, you'll need a standalone management such as Hondata, AEM EMS, etc.

Don't expect the DRAG, GReddy, or F-max turbo to push out 20+ PSI either.

310cc injectors are on the small side. I'd get something 450+.

Don't forget about the enfamous H22 sleves, if you plan on running a forged piston (reccomended), you'll need to re-sleve. This is a bitch in that you have to send your motor off somewhere...

Also going to need:
Clutch of the century
Array of fuel mods including fuel rail, in tank pump, injectors, FPR, etc.
Dyno time out the ***, plan on a few days worth
Cam gears

NOT to mention the motor:
Re-sleve
8 - 9:1 compression FORGED pistons
Strong rods (Eagle IMO)
Big ol' turbo cams
Crazy headwork
Aftermarket IM

Don't forget about that Hondata and the gigantic turbo you'll need. And don't forget to double your funds needed cause you know you'll blow this ****** up at least once.

 

i would have to disagree with that statement about longevity, if you smote the living crap out of a stock engine it wont last very long, but if you smote the same level of crap out of the same motor with endyn pistons, rings and a built valvetrain i have a hard time believeing the built motor wont last longer

it all depends on how you drive and treat the motor, if i have a 300hp B18 and i only open up it up every once in awhile im sure it would last longer than a stock B18C if i test the rev limiter everyday

 

Firstly, i'm assuming everyone drives their built cars like they are meant to be driven...to the max as much as possible.

Secondly...I don't know if I agree with you. I smoted the living crap out of my stock b16 for a good 30-40k miles. I delivered pizza with the thing, dragged it officially ~120 times and unofficially at every stoplight, 8000rpm at all possible times, on top of the fact that it was 10 years old and came out of a Japanese junkyard....absolutely no signs of wear. I heard similar stories about factory Honda motors, raced all the time and still running perfectly after over 100k miles.

From what I understand from an experienced engine builder, an engine with forged aftermarket pistons would start wearing down at 50k miles...just becasue of the fact that the pistons are softer. Someone please correct this information if they've experienced otherwise. I've heard of people breaking aftermarket cams and springs, and titanium retianers wearing down and all sorts of crap like that.

They might be able to take more ****, but I don't think they can take the same level of **** for as long. There's a big difference between strength and endurance, and when upgrading stuff a lot of times you sacrifice one for the other. That's partly the reason why Honda doesn't use low silicon forged pistons, or other technologies that the aftermarket uses. It's not necessarily because Honda's cheap.

Either way, I believe if you're not running power levels where you need to upgrade internals...don't. There comes a point where the power levels are high such that upgraded internals would last longer. I think that's the time to upgrade, and not before. For the guy that started this post...yeah, definately upgrade them.


[Modified by Lsos, 10:41 AM 12/15/2002]

 

Thanks to everyone that posted here. I definitley have major decisions to be made. All this given information gives me a pretty good idea of what I want.

Thanks