Well I went home this weekend and got the head off..




So im ordering **** to build a new valvetrain.

I have had this timing belt for...maybe 10,000 miles, no more. Do I need to get a new one? Do you need to take the crankshaft pulley off to change the belt/put it back on? How do you torque it back down without the crankshaft spinning?

Thanks.

Sebastian

 

Put the car is gear....step on the brake is one way.
Moroso makes a special tool also...very nice. My friend bob has one.
I guess the timing belt could be used again. How many miles are on the water pump? If over like 50k Id do it now because its easier.hat kind of valves are you going to order?

 

what i want to know is, where did the piece go? your pistons and sleeves are ok?

 

water pump is same age as the timing belt.

So I do need to get the crankshaft pulley off to put the belt back on? I know the sequence to install the belt, and it seems like the pulley needs to come off.

Should I use an impact gun, r a torque wrench?

I was looking into skunk2 valves...or for a lil more, ferrea valves. I dont know, im looking around and am open to suggestions.

thanks

 

Good question...

From what I can tell nothing else is harmed...The fins in my turbo are fine, the piston is dandy...****, I was in too much of a hurry to rotate the crank and check down the sleeve...the piston was at TDC.

Ill do that tomorrow

 

If you put a piece that size through your turbo, I suggest you start playing the lotto!

You = 1 lucky ****!!!
hope your sleeves are still good.

 

Yeah..you need to take the pulley off to get to the gear for the belt. There should be a black cover in the way of that gear right now, and that cover is behind the crank pulley.

As far as tightening it back, I always just take the flywheel cover off, jam the flywheel, and then tighten the pulley with a torque wrench. Helps to have a freind there.

 

Thanks a lot...

What valves would be worth getting? I need to buy all new gaskets from honda...stupid little o rings here and there, headgasket, ARP studs, valve cover gasket, cam seals...I dont have thaaaat much loot.

Is it worth it to get say....Ferrea, over Supertech? Will the portflow dual valvespring/retainers work?

Thanks again...I appreciate any input.

 

what cams you run should determine the valvetrain you use. If you have stock then get oem R stuff. Quiet and holds 9k on stock gsr cams or b16 cams. as far as valves go.....it basically is all about how nuts you wanna go at this point

 

Yes I have gsr cams, and dont plan on changing them anytime soon. When you refer to "stock oem r" did you mean valves, springs and retainers? or just springs and retainers?

Haha...crazy...ehh not too much crazier...just enough to support power to run low 12's for now. Will stock R valves be alright for that?

 

damn, a chip broke off.

i would recommend changin the belt... and possibly the waterpump if its been awhile.

 

yeh its only been around 10k miles (both timing belt and water pump)

 

Oh come on,.. it doesn't look that bad. It couldn't have been that! Keep investigating.

 

i got set of valvesprings that i got from rocket. they were shotpeened and are supposed to be great. from my understanding they are good for both h and b series. check out my link below, and talk to rocket for more info. i bought these about 1 or 2 months ago durning a gb, but then went w/ferrea.

good luck w/the sleeves

 

That same thing happened to me!! Turbo 3 cylinder was tight!! What head you have? I have a full valve train for a LS...

You are going to have to get that seat re-cut.

 

I've looked at this picture four or five times now and all I can say is manufacturing flaw to the extreme. Damn your one lucky bastard.

 

Haha....well I checked my cylinders for scratches/cracks...looked over the turbo again...NOTHING. Guess it got shat out through the wastegate??? I dont know.

haha, im not lucky...except in this case