Code 14 (Idle air control), Could a real dirty air filter cause this code?
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 1,240
Likes: 0
From: Couple SW99 40 Cal. For Ya, Do Ya Really Want It.., NJ, U.S.A
Code 14 (Idle air control), Could a real dirty air filter cause this code?
Code 14 (Idle air control), Could a real dirty air filter cause this code? I was driving along at 60mph when my car hesitated a bit and then it threw A code 14. I don't have time for a few weeks to take it to the dealer, so I was just wondering if I should just claen my air filter and reset the computer to see if it solves the problem. Or is it that once this code is thrown it definetly needs a new IAC.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 1,240
Likes: 0
From: Couple SW99 40 Cal. For Ya, Do Ya Really Want It.., NJ, U.S.A
Re: Code 14 (Idle air control), Could a real dirty air filter cause this code? (01PYTypeR#1140)
There has to be someone who can help me with this question.
New User
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 1,326
Likes: 0
From: Washington, DC, US
Re: Code 14 (Idle air control), Could a real dirty air filter cause this code? (01PYTypeR#1140)
The simple answer is no. 
This is most likely related to the Idle Air Control Valve sticking or going bad. Here is a re-post from the FI Hostboard regarding a fluctuating idle and testing the IACV. Some of the best Tech advice I've run across recently.
".
Yes.
Here is a quick test (pay attention Joe, this will save you a phone call):
First, warm the car up to operating temp. Remove the intake tube at the throttle-body end. Now, look inside the lip of the throttle-body: you will see TWO holes about 1 1/2" back from the lip... the lower one is at the 8 O'clock position... the upper one at about the 10 O'clock position. With the car running, place your finger over the lower hole. If the idle drops to normal and stabilizes, then the THERMO valve is the culprit. If there is no change, you must test the IACV. This is a bit more tricky because if you simply cover the upper hole, the car will probably stall. Instead, slowly slide your finger across the hole so as to reduce the open area gradually. Once the hole is about 90-95% covered, the idle quality should be normal. If you can cover this hole completely, and the idle is still "hunting" (going up and down in a rythmic pattern), then the IACV is most likely the spoiler.
Good luck.
Mike
[Modified by 92sleepR, 5:36 PM 12/6/2002]
This is most likely related to the Idle Air Control Valve sticking or going bad. Here is a re-post from the FI Hostboard regarding a fluctuating idle and testing the IACV. Some of the best Tech advice I've run across recently.
".
Yes.
Here is a quick test (pay attention Joe, this will save you a phone call):
First, warm the car up to operating temp. Remove the intake tube at the throttle-body end. Now, look inside the lip of the throttle-body: you will see TWO holes about 1 1/2" back from the lip... the lower one is at the 8 O'clock position... the upper one at about the 10 O'clock position. With the car running, place your finger over the lower hole. If the idle drops to normal and stabilizes, then the THERMO valve is the culprit. If there is no change, you must test the IACV. This is a bit more tricky because if you simply cover the upper hole, the car will probably stall. Instead, slowly slide your finger across the hole so as to reduce the open area gradually. Once the hole is about 90-95% covered, the idle quality should be normal. If you can cover this hole completely, and the idle is still "hunting" (going up and down in a rythmic pattern), then the IACV is most likely the spoiler.
Good luck.
Mike
[Modified by 92sleepR, 5:36 PM 12/6/2002]
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
