help with brakes please
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help with brakes please
Whenever i brake at lower speeds to a complete stop (about 40 to 0) the car feels like its stuttering or shuddering. its hard to explain. its not like the engine is dying but its whenever i brake. kinda feels like something is warped. maybe my rotors? please help. TIA
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Re: help with brakes please (mantic6t9)
it would have nothing to do with bleeding the brakes or my pads? i suppose you cant resurface the rotors, huh? time for new ones i guess. any recommendations? also, you dont need to bleed the brakes if you are just replacing rotors, right? TIA
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Re: help with brakes please (deviant1)
I don't think it has anything to do with your pad or braking system. Yes you can resurface them but rotors are cheap so why not get new ones. Go to AutoZone and pick up a set they are aroung $25 each.
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Re: help with brakes please (vtecvoodoo)
rotors are warped.
SOURCE: http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/...otors_myth.htm
<FONT COLOR="blue"> Myth # 1 - brake judder and vibration is caused by discs that have been warped from excessive heat. </FONT>
The term "warped brake disc" has been in common use in motor racing for decades. When a driver reports a vibration under hard braking, inexperienced crews, after checking for (and not finding) cracks often attribute the vibration to "warped discs". They then measure the disc thickness in various places, find significant variation and the diagnosis is cast in stone.
When disc brakes for high performance cars arrived on the scene we began to hear of "warped brake discs" on road going cars, with the same analyses and diagnoses. Typically, the discs are resurfaced to cure the problem and, equally typically, after a relatively short time the roughness or vibration comes back. Brake roughness has caused a significant number of cars to be bought back by their manufacturers under the "lemon laws". This has been going on for decades now - and, like most things that we have cast in stone, the diagnoses are wrong.
In more than 40 years of professional racing, including the Shelby/Ford GT 40s - the most intense brake development program in history - I have never seen a warped brake disc.... I have seen lots of cracked discs, discs that had turned into shallow cones at operating temperature because they were mounted rigidly to their attachment bells or top hats, a few where the friction surface had collapsed in the area between straight radial interior vanes, and an untold number of discs with pad material unevenly deposited on the friction surfaces - sometimes visible and more often not.
In fact every case of "warped brake disc" that I have investigated, whether on a racing car or a street car, has turned out to be friction pad material transferred unevenly to the surface of the disc. In order to understand what is happening here, we will briefly investigate the nature of the stopping power of the disc brake system...
(Go to the link above for the rest of the story - too long for this thread - BDC)
<FONT COLOR="blue"> Myth # 1 - brake judder and vibration is caused by discs that have been warped from excessive heat. </FONT>
The term "warped brake disc" has been in common use in motor racing for decades. When a driver reports a vibration under hard braking, inexperienced crews, after checking for (and not finding) cracks often attribute the vibration to "warped discs". They then measure the disc thickness in various places, find significant variation and the diagnosis is cast in stone.
When disc brakes for high performance cars arrived on the scene we began to hear of "warped brake discs" on road going cars, with the same analyses and diagnoses. Typically, the discs are resurfaced to cure the problem and, equally typically, after a relatively short time the roughness or vibration comes back. Brake roughness has caused a significant number of cars to be bought back by their manufacturers under the "lemon laws". This has been going on for decades now - and, like most things that we have cast in stone, the diagnoses are wrong.
In more than 40 years of professional racing, including the Shelby/Ford GT 40s - the most intense brake development program in history - I have never seen a warped brake disc.... I have seen lots of cracked discs, discs that had turned into shallow cones at operating temperature because they were mounted rigidly to their attachment bells or top hats, a few where the friction surface had collapsed in the area between straight radial interior vanes, and an untold number of discs with pad material unevenly deposited on the friction surfaces - sometimes visible and more often not.
In fact every case of "warped brake disc" that I have investigated, whether on a racing car or a street car, has turned out to be friction pad material transferred unevenly to the surface of the disc. In order to understand what is happening here, we will briefly investigate the nature of the stopping power of the disc brake system...
(Go to the link above for the rest of the story - too long for this thread - BDC)
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Re: help with brakes please (BlackDeuceCoupe)
More likely cracked rotors and/or pad material build-up. Resurfacing won't do ****...
From your link:
"The only fix for extensive uneven deposits involves dismounting the discs and having them blanchard ground - not expensive, but inconvenient at best."
So, unless it's cracked, according to your posted article, resurfacing WILL fix the problem and a proper break in procedure will prevent it from returning. You might wanna read what you post before you fly off the handle full of ****.
Shawn
[Modified by shawnhayes, 7:54 AM 12/3/2002]
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From: wainding road battlers
Re: help with brakes please (shawnhayes)
i was thinking the same, but if you get the rotors resurfaced, then there really wouldn't be any of the coating left to break in. am i right in my way of thinking here?
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Re: help with brakes please (hanson said)
i was thinking the same, but if you get the rotors resurfaced, then there really wouldn't be any of the coating left to break in. am i right in my way of thinking here?
When people resurface, and the problem goes away briefly, this uneven transfer is probably to blame. "warped" or out of true discs do occur, but they are rarer than most people think.
Resurfacing and rebedding the pads properly may clear up the problem.
Shawn
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From: Somewhere in Virginia, USA
Re: help with brakes please (hanson said)
cool. so the break in procedure would soley be for the pads in a resurfaced-rotor condition?
Shawn
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Re: help with brakes please (DMF)
so i revisited this post because i was about to buy $17 brembo blanks from nopi.com and i read it all again. now my question is, 1)do i need to buy new brake pads as well as new rotors (pad material build up)? and 2)should i just get the rotors i have now resurfaced? which will fix the problem?
[Modified by deviant1, 12:06 AM 12/13/2002]
[Modified by deviant1, 12:06 AM 12/13/2002]
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From: Somewhere in Virginia, USA
Re: help with brakes please (deviant1)
so i revisited this post because i was about to buy $17 brembo blanks from nopi.com and i read it all again. now my question is, 1)do i need to buy new brake pads as well as new rotors (pad material build up)? and 2)should i just get the rotors i have now resurfaced? which will fix the problem?
[Modified by deviant1, 12:06 AM 12/13/2002]
[Modified by deviant1, 12:06 AM 12/13/2002]
Machining the current rotors may fix the problem, but if you are abusing the brakes or not bedding the pad in properly, the problem will come right back.
Shawn
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From: wainding road battlers
Re: help with brakes please (shawnhayes)
i'm just kinda thinkin out loud here, but could not bleeding the brakes lead to uneven pad contact and lead to the build up we all want to avoid? just trying to explore some of the reasons pad build up occurs so it won't be an issue.
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