synthetic mobil1 bad for turbo cars?
nope,its good stuff,good enuff that some car makers put them in their top models right out of the factory.
[Modified by D-Man, 11:12 AM 11/26/2002]
[Modified by D-Man, 11:12 AM 11/26/2002]
Recently, there has been alot of debate regarding Mobil One's Tri-Synth. blend. Supposedly they changed their formula cause another brand was using the same thing, but selling it for alot cheaper. Personally, I've used only the Tri-Synth on my engine/turbo for over 2 years, no problems
I was getting some leaking thru the center shaft of my tdo4 and I called greddy. They said not to use fully synthetic because it doesn't lubricate the turbo seals properly and can cause leaks. They said to use at least a blend but organic is OK too.
I'm using 5w-30 real dynosaur guts and I love it and so does my car.
I'm using 5w-30 real dynosaur guts and I love it and so does my car.
i'm getting a leak between my exhaust side of the turbo.. could it be from the synthetic? should i use 10w30 synthetic? or thats way too thick
i'm getting a leak between my exhaust side of the turbo.. could it be from the synthetic? should i use 10w30 synthetic? or thats way too thick
-deep
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i would like to know how important this is also. I use mobil 1 full synthetic 10w30. Also is there a problem with going from full synthetic back to regular or synthetic blend?
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I don't think it's that big of a deal but all I can say is what greddy told me and that is to use at least a blend because the fully synthetic was too thin and it didn't lubricate the seals properly. Yikes. Just use the good old 5w-30 (blend if you want to spend more money) and be done with it. I can't think of any problem with using what Honda suggests. Sure it may be a bit hotter and more pressurized than Honda anticipated but they usually er to the side of caution and reliability.
i would use dyno for the first 500 miles on the turbo to get the seals set properly.
Then go with syn.
Syn is better with the high temps turbos will add.
Then go with syn.
Syn is better with the high temps turbos will add.
Synthetic is better for reducing coking in the turbo, especially in non-watercooled models.
I take offense at saying synthetic is "too thin". What the hell does that mean?
If your turbo has an oil seal on it, it is SEALED. If something leaks past it, then it is not sealed and therefore faulty. The seal needs to prevent air from bypassing it, is oil thinner than air? how about hot pressurized air? See my point?
Synthetic oil is not too thin, for turbo's as long as your turbo has a proper seal.
Randy
I take offense at saying synthetic is "too thin". What the hell does that mean?
If your turbo has an oil seal on it, it is SEALED. If something leaks past it, then it is not sealed and therefore faulty. The seal needs to prevent air from bypassing it, is oil thinner than air? how about hot pressurized air? See my point?
Synthetic oil is not too thin, for turbo's as long as your turbo has a proper seal.
Randy
I think some people are confusing synthetic's "Thin-ness" with the simple fact that it has very few impurities in it. A 10W-30 oil is a 10W-30 oil, no matter how you slice it. It passes SAE tests that mandate certain viscosities at certain temperatures, thus the "weight rating". Synthetic oil is not much different than dyno oil, other than since it is man-made, it is pure good stuff. AKA, you're not having to refine crude oil/sludge to get an end-product that has the lubricating properties for your application. Hope this helps. I don't know whether synthetic is actually worth the extra money, but with all the aftermarket junk on my engine, the peace of mind alone is worth the bucks, IMO.
Nick
Nick
Well, all I've been reading above is speculation. I don't see any proof or references at all. I could be trusting the folks at Greddy too much and we all know how crapy their parts fit and finish but they said Dyno juice is the best for the seals. The only thing I can think of is that the rubber in the seals soaks up the real organic oil but not the synthetic similar to how only petroleum based trim detailer works to restore rubber and silicon based trim detailer only makes it shiney.
I don't know. Why doesn't somebody call up Garrett or some other turbo manufacturer. How bout checking out what kind of oil is recomended by Mitsubishi for their Eclipses? I'd trust OEM before anybody on the planet.
I don't know. Why doesn't somebody call up Garrett or some other turbo manufacturer. How bout checking out what kind of oil is recomended by Mitsubishi for their Eclipses? I'd trust OEM before anybody on the planet.
I'd trust OEM before anybody on the planet.
BTW this was on a 993, I don't know if the 996's still have that tag.
That's what I'm saying. Honda says use 5w-30 and it doesn't call for syn. so... Add this to what the turbo manufacturer reccomends and compare it to what some stock turboed cars require and I think we can make an educated guess.
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