spun 2 main bearings...line bore with boost good idea? i was thinkin no but wanna see what u guys think..

 

I don't quite understand what you are asking.

You will need to have the mains line bored to repair the damage, if that is what you are getting at.

 

line bore regardless of boost or all motor is mandatory. same goes for big end of rods if you are reusing the same rods.

greg

 

get cam gears it moves your timing

 

He doesnt plan on building it without line boring.
He wants to know if the mains will just spin again after its line bored, if the motor is boosted Or if he should just say screw the block and find one without spun mains.

 

yup... slow sol is right.. i mean boostedd15b7..ahah hondata for christmass??

i know i have to line bore the mains and im gonna use my good crank if i do this..i just wanted to know if anyone has done this.. i find it kinda hard to belive linebores..

 

You need to take your block to a machine shop that does many A L I G N bores. They can tell you how bad the block is and if it can be fixed properly. Align boring will raise the crank slightly in the saddles, raise the pistons slightly in the bore and maybe throw off the oil pump alignment. You usually don't spin a main unless you run it out of oil or broke the oil pump. You need to know why they spun.


[Modified by earl, 4:54 PM 11/26/2002]

 

10k rpm on a h23l..

 

yeh my old block was line bored and it was ok i never spun mains again but i hated it i could never get my timing right i had my timing so far retard killing power

I was running 7psi and getting ping at stock timing i had to run 16 degrees for it to stop on 93 pump gas

I comp test i was getting 245psi after line bore and getting 195 before the linebore

 

looks like i dont use it then..

 

you can do just get camgears how bad is if its not bad they may not have to cut much

and i hear that you can weld it up on a honda block and then bore it so you wont move any thing

 

It's not timing anyone's worried about, it's basic geometry. Earl is entirely correct, the FIRST thing to be concerned about here is why he spun two rod bearings, not whether or not some machining will get the setup back in reasonable shape. Spun bearings are generally caused by too little oil pressure for the conditions, which may equate to several different possibilities.

Beyond that, I really wouldn't suggest welding metal into bearing thrust surfaces. In fact, I'd suggest banging your head against a cinder block wall for an hour straight before welding up a block (at least you'll have a cool scar to show for it, rather than simply an empty wallet and newly broken motor).

 

i never know that you could i just heard that from some one

some reason most high mile h23 spin main bearings easy

all ready they burn oil and you let it run low in oil a few times

think its the stock oil pump it start to go out in high mileage

i don't really know the reasons but 70% or most h23's floating around have bearing damage

 

Very true. I would never consider welding material into a block. It's seen it's day, if it comes to that. I spun 2 bearings in my first engine, the crank was not pretty. I decided not to use either.

I think mine was due to low or loss of pressure, I *was* using an UO 1lb crank pulley.

 

Stay away from those non-dampened pullys. They are murder on bearings.
I would never trust a block with a welded main saddle. I can't imagine anyone doing that but I suppose it would be possible.

 

wtf. you line bore it then use oversized main bearings....dont u

 

No, you grind the main bearing caps on their ends and then align bore it back to the stock tunnel size. No one makes oversized bearings on the outside surface, only the inside surface. They work with undersized crank journals (reground crank).

 

earl, if the main saddles are only one size, then why is it the block marked A, B, C, or D? im not saying that your wrong im just confused, and would like to learn.

 

ABCD is in terms of .0001 variances. The OD is the same on all bearings. Extra thickness on the inside just changes the id for different clearances. Of course, if you align bored the block, all main saddle ID's would be the same (back to stock specs). Not sure if I explained this ok.

 

tip: if you dont know what you're talking about, dont say anything!!

let earl do the talking!

 

well at the shop i work for we get some oversized bearings.. but we dont work on hondas very often..thats why i thought i would ask. it is a forum u know.


[Modified by BoostedH23a1, 12:01 PM 11/29/2002]

 

Hey EARL, since everyone seems to be asking your advice....

I just tore down an h23a. Main Bearings 3 , 4 , and 5 are shot. I don't think they spun, because the tabs on the bearings are still in tact. Bearings 1 and 2 seem to be fine.

3, 4, and 5 bearings are miss shaped and don't properly fit in the saddles anymore. When put into the saddles, they can be moved to the right and left and the tabs on the bearings don't fit into the slots in the block. The bearings are actually "smaller" or bent so the tabs don't reach the slots in the block.

1 and 2 are still a nice fit and I can pull them out of the saddles and place them into the saddles for 3, 4, and 5. They fit nicely in all the saddles. This is why I don't beleive the bearing spun, but instead the 3, 4, and 5 bearings are shot.

The slot in number 3 has dug into the tab in the block. So when a "good" bearing is placed into the number 3 saddle, and the tab is placed into the slot, it can still be moved to the right because the slot is bigger than it should be. The same thing in other words: The slot in the block that receives the main bearing tab is wider than it should be because the corner is mushed in. So when a main bearing is placed into the saddle, and the tab on the bearing is placed into the slot, there is room for the tab on the bearing to move to the right.

I am worried that this will allow the bearing to move around when the motor is running, and I don't know what can be done to fix this. Please let me know if I explained it properly.