i fired up my newly built golden eagle sleeved motor last night and it is smoking like crazy from the exhaust, its white smoke, which means water. There is no water in the oil. There is water, however, in the combustion chamber, not puddles though, it is a mist. The car smokes like mad out the exhaust though. I am using a golden eagle headgasket, copper sprayed. I torqued down the head to 70, but am retorquing it to 80 today. The block is oringed, and the orings have no gaps in them, i dont see how i could get the orings any better. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what i should do otherwise. Oh yeah i am running the bars leak too. That helped the smoking a bit. The motor is running great, aside from the smoking. Post here with any help. Thanks

 

Has it stayed constantly smoking? Or just initial start up and for just a few minutes. Alot of rebuilds smoke at first or even new turbos and downpipes. Mine actually didn't smoke a lick except for some blue smoke slightly until the rings finally fully seated. Not to say a good or bad thing about GE, enough has been said by me in the past already and my story speaks for itself. But don't jumpo the gun yet. More info would be needed. Gimme details or H-T details Good luck.

 

yeah, it'll smoke A LOT aftter rebuild, it's burning all the assembly lube, all the grease and etc...

mine smoked for 45 minutes to an hour before, I couldn;t handle it and shut it off and went inside....

I started the next day and bom, no smoke, started as normal, then I started to drive around with it...

don't jump in to conclusion too fast....take your time...

 

Congrats Stan on getting your SMOKEY MONSTER BACK!

 

lol....she doesn;t smoke anymore hehehe

 

yeah ive heard stories about motors like that...smoking like crazy and then all the sudden stopping. The only thing that sort of worried me was when i pulled the spark plugs some of the white smoke came out from the comustion chamber, but my pistons did not look incredibly wet or anything. The plugs had a black sludge stuff on them. maybe i just need to wait for the bars leak to take effect.

Oh by the way I am using the ACL bearing and would just like to say that they are awesome. My motor runs very well, aside from the smoke. All the main and rod bearings plastiguaged perfectly...Of course it helped that my block reads CCCCC all the way across for the mains.

 

hahah, yeah mine was AAAAA

 

so do you think that torquing it down to 80 will help, also do you have an oringed block or not, cause that could be whats causing it. was the smoke out of your car white or blue? cause mine is completely white and has no smell to it cause i run all water, water wetter, and bars leak in my cooling system, no coolant.

 

How long have you actually run the engine so far? Give it some time unless it is real real bad, anyone that has installed even a new turbo kit will tell you it smokes pretty bad on start up for awhile then goes away. Stan aka Flamenco-T has a GE O-ringed block btw. I was fortunate mine never smoked but later had problems.

 

ive run it for about 30 mins. when it was running it i could not see the door to the garage. It was pretty bad.


[Modified by highbrid, 7:34 PM 11/21/2002]

 

You don't run coolant???

is this normal???

 

you dont really need it, a lot of people dont
i live in az where it doesnt get below 50 degrees so i dont need the antifreezing effect either.

 

Antifreeze though helps rust protection better than straight water. Race cars usually run staright water cuz it does run cooler.

 

well i guess i cant say i dont run any, i did put a cap full or two in The point is that the smoke has no smell

 

I'm running benson sleeves oringed and mine smokes like hell also. The guy that i bought the block from said that the sleeves were put in too low. I was pretty pissed that he never told me ahead of time, before i went through 2 headgaskets. I'm starting to get annoyed by all this ****** smoke everytime i drive now. ANyone have any solutions?????

 

so now im ending up having to order some more headgaskets and oring wire. Im just going to do it over again. It stopped smoking completely when it was idling. I let it run for about 2 hours. Then I decided to drive it around. It started smoking after about 1/2 mile. Im just going to get another head gasket and re oring it and see what happens.

On a side note, last night was the first time that ive ever driven a prodrive spool...All I can say is it is cool in some ways but a huge hassle in more ways.

 

Your water level actually goes down after a while drive it?

If it does do this:

Take that thing apart, take the block out, dissable it, take it to a machine shop, deck the block.

And put it back together with NO o-ring.

Problem solved.

If you can't fix it, send it to me, and I will fix it.

Jeff

 

you're driving a spool on the street? i dunno to call you crazy or stupid...

 

yeah i think im pretty stupid for driving that spool on the street too.

So can I put my block together WITHOUT putting in the oring. Would my seal between the head and block be weakened in any way by taking out the oring? My water level doesnt go down much at all either. It would eventually go down after a while though because water is going into the combustion chambers

 

does GE step there sleeves up or do they use Copper Orings??

 

Spools on the street kick ***! I had one in my last "weekend warrior" Mustang. I loved the"chirp chirp chirp" when I was pulling out of my driveway

 

Jeff, I think that would solve his problem but to take out the o-ring groove, would you not have to take about.030 off the deck? If his pistons were installed at a negative .005 deck height, wouldn't they now be sticking out of the deck .025"?
I know it's hard trying to help someone when you don't physically have your hands on the problem. For all the new would be engine builders out there, you have to check everything yourself. Don't assume because you bought something from a pro, it has to be perfect.

 

Before you start taking things apart, drive it for a few hours locally. Keep your eyes on the temp and oil pressure guages and the level of coolant and oil. Give it a chance to seal itself up. I would even try some K & W block seal in it before giving up. Another thing is to do a leak down or just pump 50-100 lbs of compressed air into the cylinders. See if you are getting bubbles from your coolant tank. Obviously the valves have to be closed for this to work. Good Luck

 

You can order your block either way from GE or just a pure flat deck. I wish I new for sure which way was best. We always use the o-rings (only in the block, not the head)

 

i used bars leak, which is what GE recommends. Would this K and W stuff do anything different? I doubt that there is anything wrong with the block work, other than the fact that i messed up on the oring install. I used the technique that GE recommends but I have come across a much better way of doing it. Im going to try that and if it doesnt work then Im going to pull out the motor, disassemble it and start over.