Hey Guys,

I am very new to the honda platform in general, so any and all information / advice is appreciated! The only other honda I have ever drove is a 1990 Prelude Si so i'm not familiar with any of this honestly.

I have searched everywhere that I know to search, even in the search bar before making this post here. I somewhat recently purchased a 1990 Civic, (JDM) B16A swapped about 20 years ago from what I gathered from the person I bought it from. I swapped the instrument cluster for one with a tach since the current cluster didn't have one. I swapped the odometers around so the mileage is accurate and after I got finished I realized that the tach isn't working. I saw a video online of a guy that did the same cluster swap and his also did not work. He changed out his distributor with a new one and the tach started working. I've already been having issues with the vtec actuation in this car and had a feeling that it could possibly be an issue with the distributor. However I can't for the life of me find any kind of seal kit or rebuild kit for my TD-22U dizzy. I know aftermarket dizzys are usually just junk so looking to rebuild my current one. Does anyone know where I could get the parts / seals to rebuild it?

I do plan to eventually convert everything to OBD1 using a P28 ecu / hondata s300 and doing all of the other necessary changes to be able to run it off of the new OBD1 ecu. When I do convert it I honestly plan on running a digidizzy. However I don't really want to do all of that right now if I can help it. The current ecu in the car is a PR3 which I believe is out of an integra (OBD0 ECU) from what I read somewhere before.

To further explain the vtec issue for anyone who is curious:

ECU has zero fault codes. I have heard that the CEL needs to be solid for the ECU to have a fault code however this may be inaccurate information.

This just cropped up fairly recently, car got about a quart low on oil which I thought was the reason that vtec wasn't engaging however once I filled it up with oil again it still would not hit vtec. Disassembled the vtec solenoid and the screen was not clogged at all, cleaned and reassembled. Changed spark plugs and wires (plugs were pretty worn, wires looked like they had seen better days) no changes here other than the car being way more responsive. Also did a fresh oil change with a new honda filter and valvoline (restore and protect) 5W-30 oil. Car drives perfectly as long as you don't get the revs near the vtec transition point. If you do happen to get to the transition point, the car kills all power CEL turns on and then once the rpms drop below the transition point the CEL turns off and the car drives normally again. Car runs really good and has no other mechanical issues other than this.