Attempting to remove toe arms to replace with aftermarket ones, and I've run into the god forsaken problem of the bolt being seized to the inner sleeve of the bushing. I've seen this is a common problem. I am just not sure how to go about extracting it. I've tried torching it and using vice grips while loosening bolt but no luck. I'm about to cut the bolt, but I'm not sure on how exactly to remove the bolt once it's cut. Can anyone describe exactly how to do it? Thanks.

 

Ah yes, this brings back bad memories.

Two cuts. First cut is about at the red line. Then shove the toe arm bushing to the right (orange arrow). Then make second cut (teal) as far away from the frame as possible so you can get a pair of vice grips on the remaining stud to unscrew it from the captive nut inside the frame. You may still have issues because it appears that you tore up your bushing in attempt to loosen it.... the issue is that a loose and floppy bolt is more difficult to cut.

All of my bolts were seized to the bushings from 13 years in the rust belt but neither side was seized to the captive nut. It appears however, that you probably already know this since you cut a hole in the bottom of the frame?

Oh, and those are hardened bolts, so carbide blades and patience are key.

 

Appreciate this. I should add- the bolt is all the way loose from the nut on the inside, so I don't have an issue there. I thought it was captive but after holesawing through, I saw that the nut was off the bolt.

 

Well then, if that is the case, it probably doesnt matter which order you make the cuts. The challenge will be holding the bolt relatively still if you use any sort of recip saw.

 

Yep, super common issue. Once the bolt is seized to the bushing sleeve, heat and twisting usually won’t save it. The usual fix is to cut the bolt on both sides of the bushing (between the arm and subframe) with a sawzall or cutoff wheel, then drive the remaining pieces out with a punch/hammer after the arm is out.

 

Now if I use a punch and hammer after cutting, wouldn't I have to punch the bolt out from the bolt head side? Which would mean cutting the head of the bolt off? Otherwise the bolt wouldn't be able to fit through the hole in the bracket, right? I don't see how I would be able to punch it out from the front side with the limited space in there.

 

I got 'em. What a giant pain in the dick. Spent a good long while with a 6'' grinding disc slowly grinding away the bolt flange until it was able to pop out. Knicked the driver side with the grinder a few times, but passenger side was better. Not too bad considering how STUPID this job is.

 

Yes, lots of cuss words are typically involved in this. LIke, why the f didn't honda put antiseize on the shanks of all these rear bolts?

 

Agreed. What kind of hardware are people using when installing aftermarket arms? Assuming I won't need the slide nut anymore since the arms themselves are adjustable. I've heard talk of nord lock washers? Locking nut? What do people use?