fully rebuilt b18a1 gsr trans ive previously ran all accessories before dizzy, im, starter, head cams anyways i took plug out and put it in the wire on the valve cover and had a friend crank and i was getting no spark i also took the fuel rail out and no fuel was coming out of injectors but was coming out of fuel rail. i have checked all grounds their good main relay is good all fuses are good ive even tried another ecu that was on running car, . i did accidently arch the ground to the starter causing one of my batteries got really hot on both terminals but i replaced all battery cables and the battery itself and have inspected both my ecus and dont look burnt or damaged at all. im going to check for power and injector wire tomorrow and dizzy but im so lost. i use everything not to long ago and it was running completely fine.

 

Anyone have any idea? I feel like my threads are invincible no one sees or replies but this is the only time I really need help????

 

Day later still no spark or fuel I did test the injector it’s getting power. I’m very lost my only guess now is my dizzy is bad and the other dizzy I tried is a different obd I’m so lost please someone help

 

Your post is really hard to read...

There are many reasons why you might have no spark and no fuel injector pulse. Do you have a check engine light ? If so, have you checked the stored codes ? The engine harness ground, which attaches to your thermostat housing, is VERY important for engine function. Make sure this is clean, tight, and free of any obstructions (painted parts or block).

Arcing power wiring at the battery is a bad thing... make sure all fuses under hood and under dash are good so that no circuit pathways are non-functioning. Trying a known good ECU and distributor are good starts... any distributor that will plug into your original engine harness (or using an adapter) that is 1992 or newer will work to make the engine run.

If none of this helps, please post a clear description of what you have done and what you have observed so that we may assist you better.

 

Thanks for the reply I’ll try to make it more clear.
so pretty much all I did from my previous engine was replace the block because I had a crack in it leaking oil other than that it ran great and I’m using all the same parts off running vehicle. I replaced the block brand new everything bottom end go crank it and nothing. No spark and no fuel also no CEL it comes on and goes away on ignition key II. Main relay clicks and fuel pump primes shooting fuel to the rail but not out the injectors nor am I getting spark. I am getting power to the injector wire tho so seems like something ground. Well I check all the grounds even thermostat I cleaned all of them too and check with a test light and their good. I tried another distributor that connects right up to my harness and nothing aswell. I tried another ECU and nothing I’m so stumped I guess I can try testing wires going into the ECU like the ground wires any other ideas?? Also I checked my alternator ground and test light wasn’t lighting up for that.

 

Also I have checked all fuses and replaced all the ones in the engine bay.

 

Tried hookin up the laptop to the Hondata s300 everything seems to be reading good I touched the terminals together for 30 seconds and then I readded a map to the ECU. just literally no spark or fuel. I thought it was dizzy specifically crank sensor but I tried another one and they both worked before. But your saying Aslong as the dizzy harness connect right up it should work…? So I’ve gone down a list and still can’t get it running I feel like it’s because of the arching and smoking from earlier stunt.

 

Day 2 still crank no fuel or spark

things I’ve replaced with good known parts
dizzy
ecu
wire harness
main relay
battery
injectors
fuses
battery terminals and wires

im so stumped I replaced and checked about every fuse and my timing is set perfectly

im about to pull the wire harness take the loom off and see if there’s any bad wires same with the ECU. I’ve also taken the covers off ECU both of them and they look good

never been so annoyed and stumped at a Honda want to get this fixed

 

What alternator ground are you referring to ?

 

thanks for the reply again jrcivic still trying to narrow the problem, the ground im talking about is right ontop of the alternator, above the green plug (white ground wire)
got some more intel basically i tried a whole new engine harness and still no spark or fuel. this time when i put the harness in i forgot there's 2 nuts on the alternator and the ground cable sits between both of them i forgot the bottom one and caused some arching and smoking same thing i did with previous harness but was on starter ground. this time i fixed it right away. still trying to figure it out based of all the forums ive read, distributor, ecu or engine harness is usually the problem but for me ive replaced all parts with good known parts
i also checked for power at IGP1 and IGP2 at the ecu both getting 12v damn i wanna get my civic running im just so curious what little thing is causing my whole engine not get spark or fuel. after plugging new harness my hondata ecu reads code 1 heated oxygen sensor or sum.

 

Ok so day 3 now mfer still won’t do nothing I was thinking and wanted to know someone feedback and opinion which would be routing the ground wires off the injectors and distributor straight to the battery because I know I’m getting power but ground isn’t present so if I get power and ground to both injector clips and dizzy it should 100% start? I’ve wired my buddy’s injector clip grounds to his battery when he had no pulse and it worked, but never a dizzy thoughts? which wire would it be for obd1 just want to atleast get it running.

 

Since you’re still getting no spark or fuel injector pulse despite replacing the distributor, ECU, wiring harness, main relay, battery, injectors, fuses, and battery cables, and you’ve confirmed timing is perfect, we’re likely dealing with a subtle electrical issue or something overlooked in the system. Let’s narrow it down further with a focused approach, considering the replacements and the prior arcing incident.

Recap of Symptoms and Replacements:

• Symptoms: Engine cranks, no spark at plugs, no fuel from injectors (though fuel reaches the fuel rail), and the engine ran fine before the rebuild and arcing incident.
• Replaced with known-good parts:
  • Distributor (dizzy)
  • ECU
  • Engine wiring harness
  • Main relay
  • Battery, terminals, and cables
  • Injectors
  • All fuses
• Confirmed: Timing belt and mechanical timing are correct, grounds are good.

Since you’ve swapped out most of the critical components, the issue likely lies in a shared electrical circuit (e.g., ignition power or crank signal), a component not yet replaced, or a subtle issue from the arcing event that’s affecting multiple systems.

Focused Troubleshooting Steps:

Here’s a prioritized plan to pinpoint the issue:

1. Verify Ignition Switch Operation:
   • The ignition switch is a common point that supplies power to both the ignition (distributor) and fuel systems (via the main relay and ECU). If it’s faulty or damaged from the arcing incident, it could explain both no spark and no injector pulse.
   • Test: With a multimeter, check for 12V at the black/yellow wire at the main relay and distributor with the key in the ON position and during cranking (START). Also, check the white wire at the ignition switch output in START. If voltage is absent or inconsistent, the ignition switch or its wiring is suspect.
   • Wiring check: Inspect the ignition switch harness for melted or shorted wires, especially near the starter or battery, where the arcing occurred.
2. Crank and Cam Sensor Signals:
   • Even with a known-good distributor, the ECU needs proper crank (CKP) and cam (CYP/TDC) sensor signals to fire the injectors and spark. A wiring issue between the distributor and ECU or a mechanical issue could disrupt these signals.
   • Test signals: Use a multimeter or oscilloscope (if available) to check for pulsing signals at the ECU’s CKP (crank position) and CYP (cylinder position) pins during cranking. For an OBD1 B18A1, these are typically:
     • CKP: ECU pins D3/D4 (blue/green and blue/yellow wires).
     • CYP: ECU pins D5/D6 (orange/blue and orange/white wires).
     • If no signal, double-check the distributor-to-ECU wiring in the new harness for continuity or damage.
   • Mechanical check: Since timing is confirmed, ensure the distributor rotor aligns with the #1 cylinder at TDC compression. A misinstalled distributor (off by one tooth) can cause signal issues.
3. Fuel Pump Operation During Cranking:
   • You noted fuel at the rail, so the pump primes when the key is turned ON, but confirm it runs continuously during cranking, as this is controlled by the ECU and main relay.
   • Test: Listen for the pump running during cranking or check for 12V at the pump’s power wire (yellow/black) at the fuel tank. If it doesn’t run during cranking, the ECU may not be receiving a crank signal, or the main relay’s crank circuit (blue/white wire) is faulty.
   • Main relay recheck: Even with a known-good relay, verify the fuel pump circuit closes during cranking (continuity between terminals 5 and 7 when energized).
4. Injector Power and Ground Pulse:
   • Since you’ve replaced the injectors and confirmed fuel at the rail, the issue is likely the injectors not being triggered by the ECU.
   • Test power: Confirm 12V at the red/black wire on each injector with the key ON. This comes from the main relay via the injector resistor box (if equipped).
   • Test ECU pulse: Use a noid light on each injector connector to check for a pulsing ground signal during cranking. If absent, the ECU isn’t commanding the injectors, likely due to missing crank/cam signals or an ECU power/ground issue.
   • Injector resistor box: If your B18A1 has one, verify it’s passing power to the injectors (check resistance across the box, typically 5–7 ohms per injector circuit).
5. ECU Power and Ground:
   • Even with a known-good ECU and harness, ensure the ECU is properly powered and grounded.
   • Test:
     • Check for constant 12V at ECU pin A23 (yellow/black wire) and switched 12V at A24 (black/yellow wire) with the key ON.
     • Verify ground at ECU pins A25 and B1 (black wires). Measure continuity to chassis ground.
     • If power or ground is missing, trace the new harness for issues or check the under-dash fuse box for blown fusible links or relays.
6. Arcing Incident Damage:
   • The arcing at the starter could have caused a voltage spike, damaging components not yet replaced, like the injector resistor box, under-hood fuse box relays, or fusible links.
   • Inspect under-hood fuse box: Check for hidden damage to fusible links or relays (e.g., ignition or fuel pump relays). Test continuity across all fusible links.
   • Check starter wiring: Ensure the starter’s power and ground cables aren’t shorting or causing interference, as the arcing may have damaged the starter’s internal wiring.
7. Other Possibilities:
   • Kill switch or immobilizer: If your car has an aftermarket alarm or kill switch, ensure it’s not interrupting ignition or fuel circuits.
   • Under-dash fuse box: Inspect for blown fuses or damaged wiring, especially those related to the ECU (e.g., fuse #24 or #31 in a typical OBD1 Honda).
   • Ground recheck: Since you’ve confirmed grounds, focus on the thermostat housing ground and ECU grounds (G101 and G401). A poor ground can mimic these symptoms even with new harnesses.

Recommended Next Steps:

• Start with the ignition switch: Test for 12V at the black/yellow wires at the main relay and distributor during ON and START. If faulty, replace the switch or repair its wiring.
• Check crank/cam signals: Use a noid light for injectors and a multimeter for distributor signals to confirm the ECU is receiving them.
• Recheck fuel pump during cranking: Ensure it runs continuously while cranking.
• Inspect under-hood fuse box: Look for damaged relays or fusible links from the arcing incident.

Additional Suggestions:

• If you have access to a scan tool, check for ECU codes or live data to confirm crank/cam sensor activity.

Final Thoughts:

The arcing incident likely caused damage to a component or circuit not yet replaced, like the ignition switch, under-hood fuse box, or a subtle wiring issue in the new harness. The fact that both spark and injector pulse are absent points to a shared failure, likely in the ignition power circuit or crank/cam signal path. Focus on the ignition switch and sensor signals first, as these are the most likely culprits given your replacements.

(Grok AI via x.com)

 

Removing the stock injector grounds and by passing them to the battery will work theoretically.. but that would mean that your injectors would just stay open all the time, they're supposed to get a pulsed ground signal from the ECU that controls how much fuel they let in.

 

This is crazy that someone would replace this many parts... this is not how diagnostics work.

Diagnostics is a methodical process of elimination. I recently had a similar problem with a b16a2 that I resolved (crank with no spark or pulse). The thread can be found on my profile.

How are you checking "power" to your injectors? Are checking for voltage between the 2 pins on the plug or from 1 pin to a chassis ground?

1 pin is supposed to have constant 12v when ignition is on, the other ground side is supposed to pulse (the ecu is responsible for this)

If your injectors have 12v between the 2 pins all the time then your injectors are grounded out when they should not be.

If only 1 or 2 injectors are permanently grounded check the loom for a short to ground. If all are grounded permanently then replace your ECU as its the most likely culprit as its extremely unlikely for all four injectors to be grounded due to a loom issue.

My thread has pinouts so might be helpful for you.