UK CAR

The problem;

- The car is an EK that originally came with a 1.5L engine and now has a B16 swapped into it. Bought as a non runner.

- The car does crank however no spark and no injector pulse. What are the conditions that need to be met for the ECU to trigger spark and Injector pulse?

- The ECU appears to have a tuning company sticker on it and the ECU is connected to the loom using a patch harness. Assuming its to make a OB2 compatible with an OBD1 loom.

What have I done so far;

- Checked all fuses and grounds (all good)

- Check power and ground to the ECU (both good)

- Checked fuel is coming to rail (it is)

- Checked spark (not present)

- Checked Injector Pulse (not present).

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks

 

The ECU needs signal from the crank angle sensor to time the injector pulses and ignitor for spark.

I think this is in the distributor on the B16.

I would check for loose pins on the patch harness as step one. the retention clips tend to be less secure than the factory stuff. especially so for a "budget" harness if that's the case here.

 

Hi thanks for the reply. It is indeed a very budget patch harness. I will double and triple check and report back shortly.

 

Yes, its inside the distributor.

 

OK so interesting findings the car is originally an OBD2A car which is hooked up to an OBD1 ECU using a patch harness. So I tracked down an OB2A pinout which I have attached below.

Here are my findings with a multimeter -

On connector C only pins 2,3,4 and 12,13,14 are present. Pin 1 and 11 are missing which tells me there is no CKF sensor. Pins 2,3,4 and 12,13,14 are the power and grounds for the CKP, TDC and CYP sensors (which i now know are in the distributor). All the grounds work however the powers are only producing less than 1V is this correct? I am sure I read somewhere that these are supposed to be 2.5-3v do I have a bad ECU?

My second question is how can I test to see if the sensors are functional in the distributor?

Again any help is massively appreciated.

 

Ok so I managed to find the pinout for my distributor its attached below. I checked the resistance between all the sensors and they are all at 350 which i believe is correct. I can also confirm that the the positives are getting less than 1v to the pigtail and all the grounds are working at the pigtail too... which leads me back to.... are the sensors getting enough voltage and is my ECU cooked?

 

Ok after some more investigation I can see that all four injector pigtails have a constant 12v with the key in the "on" position without even cranking. Im pretty sure the injectors are ground side controlled and are not supposed to have any voltage until they pulse? Maybe more evidence that the ECU is cooked?

 

Turns out this is not a very active forum after all

 

Not during Football season...

I am not sure what the voltage side of the three distributor sensors is supposed to be, however, if you DO NOT have codes for any of the sensors (TDC, CKP, CYP), then they are not your problem.

 

Aaah my bad. We dont have a football season over the pond in the UK. Any ideas on why the injectors are constantly grounded out?

 

Fuel injectors should always have 12v+ when the key is on, but the ground should only occur when the ECU instructs each injector to fire. If you have constant grounds... then your fuel injectors would be stuck OPEN all the time and the engine would be flooded with fuel.

 

I narrowed it down to a bad ECU. All four injectors are grounded all the time, first I thought it might be a short to ground then remembered its impossible/highly unlikely for all four to be shorted as they all have a separate trigger ground wire that runs to the ECU. Hence I came to the conclusion ECU is cooked. I managed to find a chipped P28 ECU on ebay, it arrives in a few days will report back.

 

Typically the capacitors blow. Any moisture that gets in is not good either.

 

When caps blow, circuit pathways no longer work. Remember that capacitors control voltage and not grounds. There are two fuel injector drivers in the ECU... each controls two fuel injectors. It would be unlikely that all four fuel injectors are grounded out continuously, but not impossible.

 

I was indeed correct. The new ECU arrived and now all four Injectors are pulsing, what ever was causing all four injectors to ground out all the time was ECU related. Anyway onto the next problem, still no spark! I took the distributor cap off and checked for continuity between both the coil contact and center contact on the cap, there is continuity between the two points. I then moved onto the ignition coil (12v present at the - and + terminals) however no voltage at the coil itself...

So a new ignition coil is the next item I would have ordered .... except the rotor arm snapped off whilst trying to remove it. So a complete new second hand distributor has been ordered. Its from a D series however still OBD2a, should still work right?

 

Pretty sure you need a B series dizzy.

 

Ok chaps shes running. Heres the lowdown. New ECU restored injector pulse and new dizzy restored the spark. I could have got away with just replacing the ignition coil but the wheel snapped off along with the dust cover. Anywhoo £350 few a new ECU and £160 for a new dizzy and now we are back on the road. On a side note D series dizzy was a no go so ended up returning it.

Thanks for all the help

 

Having the same issue no spark no fuel

but I’ve replaced with good parts
dizzy
ecu
wire harness
main relay
battery
battery cables
ground are clean
IGP1 and IGP2 getting 12v
injectors have 12v
fuses are all good

still not getting fuel or spark but am getting fuel to the rail so stumped any thoughts?

 

Wow that's insane that you have replaced all these parts.... lets start from the beginning.

What car is it? I am asking because i need to know if the harness is OBD1, OBD2A or OBD2B you will be able to tell from the the harness ECU connectors

How do you know you are not getting fuel? Are you missing injector pulse or are you physically not getting fuel to the rail?

If you are physically not getting fuel to the rail you should test the fuel pump, if the fuel pump is good then you need to trace the fault further back.

 

Did you remove the screw from the rotor before trying to remove it?