1992 Honda accord starter brand new clicks
Hi I have a 92 Honda accord and I’ve owned it for 2 weeks and the starter gave out idk why the day before every time I’d go to start it it would get slower at starting I though it was the battery but it was fine so then the next day I go to start the car nothing everything turns on but the starter has no noise or anything so I bough a new starter and I got it all buttoned up and there was a couple of sparks and some flashes from the starter when I connected the positive and negative but they went away and double checked the fuses and they where fine then when I go to start the car just clicks from the starter so I gave up and when I was pushing the car back to its spot on the driveway with the key in the accessory position (lights ac radio are all on) the starter just randomly started spinning the solenoid did nothing and I was pushing the car and even when I turned of the key and took it out of the ignition switch it still was spinning so I had to go and pop the hood to unplug the battery so I have one question what Sould I do? Thanks
Battery voltage should be 12.6 fully charged, slightly more on newer batteries are fine, but anything less than 12.4 the battery is dying.
A 12V battery that is 11.99 is a dead battery.
Slower cranking usually is a voltage drop issue and not a starter issue, they usually work or don't.
If the new starter self activated and spins, but does not crank the engine, that is a faulty starter.
Starters work as follows.
When the key is turned to START, ignition switch sends battery voltage(small wire) to the starter solenoid. This powers the solenoid to do two things.
First is to activate the 'bendix drive' which is the small gear that shoots out and engages the flywheel teeth.
Once this occurs the solenoid travels a bit further and engages contacts which then sends power to the starter motor directly which then spins and rotates the engine.
If the starter motor is simply freewheeling/spinning, but not turning the engine over 'cranking' then there is an internal fault with the 'new' starter.
Most likely the internal contacts are stuck 'on'. And it's a bad starter.
Also there has been an ongoing problem with 'new' starters being crap out of the box.
Best to purchase a rebuilt original Mitsuba or Denso unit that was rebuilt by Denso or AC Delco. The extra $50 bucks spent is usually well worth it.
I suspect your initial problem is from a bad or corroded connection, or internally failing battery cables causing voltage drop issues with the older starter having slightly higher resistance.
FYI for future...
If your car is manual, and the starter solenoid has a squarish cover held on by 3 screws, you can remove the cover and the solenoid contacts and clean them up. There are kits ~$15 that supply new contacts if the originals are too worn out.
Verify what your battery voltage is.
Verify battery connections are clean and tight.
Verify battery cables are in good condition. Internally cables fail.
Verify all applicable grounds and bonding jumpers are installed correctly, clean and tight.
A 12V battery that is 11.99 is a dead battery.
Slower cranking usually is a voltage drop issue and not a starter issue, they usually work or don't.
If the new starter self activated and spins, but does not crank the engine, that is a faulty starter.
Starters work as follows.
When the key is turned to START, ignition switch sends battery voltage(small wire) to the starter solenoid. This powers the solenoid to do two things.
First is to activate the 'bendix drive' which is the small gear that shoots out and engages the flywheel teeth.
Once this occurs the solenoid travels a bit further and engages contacts which then sends power to the starter motor directly which then spins and rotates the engine.
If the starter motor is simply freewheeling/spinning, but not turning the engine over 'cranking' then there is an internal fault with the 'new' starter.
Most likely the internal contacts are stuck 'on'. And it's a bad starter.
Also there has been an ongoing problem with 'new' starters being crap out of the box.
Best to purchase a rebuilt original Mitsuba or Denso unit that was rebuilt by Denso or AC Delco. The extra $50 bucks spent is usually well worth it.
I suspect your initial problem is from a bad or corroded connection, or internally failing battery cables causing voltage drop issues with the older starter having slightly higher resistance.
FYI for future...
If your car is manual, and the starter solenoid has a squarish cover held on by 3 screws, you can remove the cover and the solenoid contacts and clean them up. There are kits ~$15 that supply new contacts if the originals are too worn out.
Verify what your battery voltage is.
Verify battery connections are clean and tight.
Verify battery cables are in good condition. Internally cables fail.
Verify all applicable grounds and bonding jumpers are installed correctly, clean and tight.
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