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So, I just had my car worked on by a mechanic to have my leaking AC fixed and recharged. So, that's all good and the AC is nice and cold now. While I had it in, I had asked him to check why the radiator fan wasn't working. Because my car has an AC, it has two radiators and two fans. One is the condenser for the AC and its fan, the other is the radiator for the engine and its fan. The fan on the engine radiator doesn't spin. He said that the fan works but its not getting a signal from the ECM to turn on. From what I looked up, so far, there's only one fan relay in the car for both fans and they should both come on when the AC is on max setting. That doesn't happen. Just the fan on the AC condenser comes on. I couldn't find anyone talking about having to modify the ECM to get both fans to work properly. Has anyone had to deal with this? It'd be cool if the engine doesn't overheat. I haven't had any problems yet but I haven't gotten stuck in stop-start traffic with it yet and I don't want it to overheat while on the road.
The condenser fan relay is located near the front driver's side of the engine bay; this is triggered when the AC is running.
The radiator fan relay is located in the under-hood fuse/relay box.; this can be triggered by the radiator fan switch or the ECM. When the coolant temperature is above 199 degrees F at the thermostat housing, the fan switch should close and trigger the radiator fan. You can test if the radiator fan works by unplugging the connector for the fan switch at the thermostat housing, then insert a small paper clip or wire in the harness connector to jump the cavity terminals. Then turn the ignition switch to ON, the radiator fan should then run.
The condenser fan relay is located near the front driver's side of the engine bay; this is triggered when the AC is running.
The radiator fan relay is located in the under-hood fuse/relay box.; this can be triggered by the radiator fan switch or the ECM. When the coolant temperature is above 199 degrees F at the thermostat housing, the fan switch should close and trigger the radiator fan. You can test if the radiator fan works by unplugging the connector for the fan switch at the thermostat housing, then insert a small paper clip or wire in the harness connector to jump the cavity terminals. Then turn the ignition switch to ON, the radiator fan should then run.
Ok, I'll give this a shot and see what happens. I'm pretty sure I can find a piece of wire or a paperclip somewhere around my house.
The condenser fan relay is located near the front driver's side of the engine bay; this is triggered when the AC is running.
The radiator fan relay is located in the under-hood fuse/relay box.; this can be triggered by the radiator fan switch or the ECM. When the coolant temperature is above 199 degrees F at the thermostat housing, the fan switch should close and trigger the radiator fan. You can test if the radiator fan works by unplugging the connector for the fan switch at the thermostat housing, then insert a small paper clip or wire in the harness connector to jump the cavity terminals. Then turn the ignition switch to ON, the radiator fan should then run.
Alright, I found a piece of wire and I shoved it into the connector that I pulled off of the thermostat housing. I turned the ignition on and the fan came on. Does that mean the issue is with the thermostat?
Also, side question. I noticed that this green connector doesn't have anything plugged into it and there's a pair of wires that appear to have been cut. Is there supposed to be something plugged in here? I'm pretty sure this is the VTEC solenoid.
1. If you're not overheating, there may not be any issue with the fans. If the radiator fan did not come on when you're overheating, then it may be an issue with the fan switch. But, sounds like you're okay.
2. The photo is for the VTEC pressure switch. It should have a connector plugged into it, with a Blu/Blk wire and a Blk wire.
1. If you're not overheating, there may not be any issue with the fans. If the radiator fan did not come on when you're overheating, then it may be an issue with the fan switch. But, sounds like you're okay.
2. The photo is for the VTEC pressure switch. It should have a connector plugged into it, with a Blu/Blk wire and a Blk wire.
I guess I'll just have to run it for a while and check after the engine has been running and driving for a while.
As for the VTEC pressure switch connector, is there a model specific connector that I have to buy or are they all the same when they have VTEC? I found