Hey guys I did do research before buying my wheels and tires. I decided on some gram light 57 dr (15x8+35) with Venus Hankook v2 (205/50r15) and have seen many coupe/hatchbacks use this exact same set up with only needing fenders rolled. Which I did. And after putting the car on the floor the inner barrel was scraping against the rear trailing arm causing it to take off a thin strip of metal along the barrel. And up front I couldn’t help but notice a slight knock. My guess it’s the knuckle hitting against the balance weights. I’m here trying too see if anyone has ran into these issues because from what I’ve seen no one has. I do plan on throwing some skunk2 pro st coilovers on it as soon as I can get my hands on a jack again. Car is currently on cut springson the rear(has two cut springs on rear coils from previous owner and some cheap eBay one up front) I hope that the new suspension fixesthe clearance issue. But that’s why I’m here too see others experiences.I have 3mm spacers coming in but I really don’t want to use them because the fitment is just how I wanted. Thanks again and I’m looking forward to any help

 

Why are the wheel weights on the edge of the rim? Take it to a tire shop and have them balance again, using stick-on weights on the inner barrel instead.

 

I got the right ones on now, but the issue is still there. Would the issue resolve itself once I lower the car? Issue being the rear trailing arm making contact with the rear wheel?

 

How much camber are you running or is your toe out of whack? Typically the guys I know run a 225/45 tyre. Same wheel spec, but with a TE37.

 

Welcome to aggressive fitments! The more custom you go, the more work you gotta do. Every wheel/tire/brake/car combo is slightly different.

As far as the fronts, I hope the tire shop didn't use clip weights on your nice new wheels. Put the car in the air and spin the wheel to see where it's contacting the upright/knuckle. Should be obvious. You may need a thin (3-5mm) spacer. I personally have to run a 5mm spacer to clear calipers on my setup, and I can only use weights on the inner side of the wheel barrels. Outer weights will get scooped off the wheels by the calipers immediately.

Pretty typical to have to grind the rear trailing arms to clear a 15x8. I'm not sure why it's not more talked about. I totally forgot I had done this on my old trailing arms and had to mod my freshly powder coated replacement arms. Oh well.

Before:


Where to trim:


After (actually my old arm that I modded years ago, I made a trace of it and used to mark the new one pictured above for trimming)


If you're still using the oem UCA, you might need to trim that as well:

 

so I just lowered the car and I’m not running a specific amount of either, from what I seen online with others is that the natural camber that comes with lowering the car was perfect for the fitment I was striving for. I am running 205/50 hankook ventus v2

 

dude thanks a ton this has been very helpful. I had already bought a 2 pc of 3mm spacers for the rear because i thought that just adding those and rolling/pulling the fenders would be my only option. I went through a ton of photo galleries and no one has ever mentioned cutting the RTA. The sites had made it seem as if there were no modifications for this fitment besides rolling fender.Is there anymore things you can reference me too, any and all help would be very helpful. And why would I have to cut the UCA? It’s well out the way from every, and if I buy any aftermarket ones which would prevent me from having to cut them?

 

And Is there anymore things chance you can send me a more clear picture of what I might need to trim for the uca. Still confused on why I might need to buy if it comes to it it would be nice to know exactly what to do before bothering you again

 

That’s why I said you “might” have to trim it. It’s been years since I went to 15x8, I honestly don’t remember. Adjustable upper arms should have no issues.

 

so I got to cutting and the RTA was already cut thanks to the previous owner, but you were right about the UCA needing trimming. Got it all done and runs beautifully. Wish I could post photos but it’s telling me it’s too big of a file

 

Must be a good camera! Glad you got it sorted out - Now there's some documentation of this on the internet, finally. I was as surprised as you that there wasn't.

 

I don't hit the rear arm with my 15x8 Enkei PF01s, but they sure did scrape the original upper rear LCA on my Civic. Same wheel did not hit on my Integra's rear LCA. Either way I went adjustable on both cars.

Only thing I can think of is my Civic on the stock arms had more static camber than the Integra did. (-2.5 or so degrees on the Civic, while the Integra barely had -1 to -1.5)

 

I think you mean the trailing arm, no? That doesn't move relative to the wheel so camber shouldn't affect. Starting to wonder if there's not a couple different versions of the trailing arms. What offset are your Enkeis?

My current ones came from a DC Integra, but the previous arms were original to the EJ6.

 

The enkeis are 4x100 15x8 +35. When I meant the upper rear LCA, the rear corner of the arm hit the wheel on my civic. My assumption was with the wheel on the Civic having more negative camber inward was probably why it hit. On the integra, the clearance was tight, but no where near hitting the wheel. The adjustable arm I have on now seems to have fixed the issue though. However, I never had to cut that portion of the trailing arm on my Civic or Integra. The grind mark from the wheel hitting was on the rear upper LCA and not on the trailing arm.

Wasn't this possibly the reason why the JDM ITR had a different rear upper arm?

 

Got it. LCA = lower control arm, so I was a little confused. That’s the upper control arm. I don’t know on those JDM arms, I’ve actuallY never seen them. I wouldn’t think it’s a problem since those cars came neither with a particularly aggressive wheel or more camber. More likely it was for weight or durability.

 

Hey guys I’m the op and found this photo that is small enough of a file to post. This is fitment after and was exactly what I was looking for.
And on a side note finally came across someone talking about the same situation that happened to me. in a previous video he said the wheel specs and it aligns with mine. Only thing is he didn’t mention trimming of the RTA