This is a first post so forgive the shotty quality. I have a 1996 Accord which I bought for like 400 bucks, my Step-father and I have put some work into it, ensuring that it has compression, signals are where they need to be, timing is correct, etc. Essentially everything it needs to run. I will say that the ECM has been dismounted, and is on the floor board, is plugged up to the car, and is grounded to a part on the block. The main question is what else could be wrong? It cranks and she wants to start real bad, but no go. I've read up on here and online that a faulty crank sensor could be the perpetrator so we'll probably look into that. we also noticed that spraying fuel directly into the intake helps a bit and got it to run for a second. With this info in mind we ordered an inline fuel pump, and if she starts off that we'll move forward and buy a new fuel pump. If this does not work however, what else should we be looking into as well as the crank sensor? Thanks bunches:> !

TLDR : Car has everything to run, but no go, what do?

Edit: Car has the F-22B2 Non-Vtec motor in it.

Edit 2: Fuel pump is no longer a concern, injectors are firing, timing is 100%, pressure in all the right places, fuel pressure regulator is good too. We're super stumped.

 

1996 was the year on-baord diagnostics II was mandated. It means you have a connector somwhere in the cabin, under dash that will allow you to use an OBD-II scanner to check the engine computer for codes.
If you scan and there are codes let us know what they are, typically a code is stored when the ecu CEL criteria is met and it turns the CEL on.
I'm not positive but even if the car isn't running on its own like idling but fires some and cranks over then it still might have diagnostic codes stored for a failed crankshaft position sensor (if it has failed)
but not positive if just attempting to start would be enough to set a code.
It sounds like you might have a fuel problem, I think your on the right track. Sounds like you have compression, proper valve timing, some ignition (verify if 100% in time) and some fuel.
If adding starting fluid or gas through in throttle body when attempting to start makes it fire better then id look into fuel delivery like you have.
You can check with a fuel pressure guage, if you can get one, for fuel pressure at the fuel rail .
Also look into the fuel pressure regulator and engine vacuum, make sure you dont have vacuum leaks.
The regulator is vacuum controlled, also a leak will allow un-metered air to enter the combustion process and change the air fuel mixture causing it to run rough or not idle.

-Scan ECU OBDII codes
-Check for vacuum leaks
-Check fuel pressure regulator
-Check fuel pressure at rail
-Check fuel filter
-Quality of spark
-Check for clogged injector(s)
-Make sure exhaust is and cats are un-obstructed

 

Do all the appropriate warning lights come on and turn off when initially turning key to II(ON)
Do you hear the fuel pump prime when the key is turned to II(ON)?
Is the antitheft light not blinking?
It should turn on for a moment then turn off. If it's blinking the car will not start.

Locate fuel filter in engine bay.
Loosen top banjo bolt.
Wrap top of filter in rag.
Turn ignition switch to II(ON)
Does fuel spew out?

 

I'm pretty sure I got a half year because we had already pretty much taken apart the dash in search of a OBDII port. Is there any hints as to where it may be?

Everything else has been checked off, checking cats and exhaust after school today.

 

Fuel pump is fine, got covered in fuel taking the filter out to put an inline pump where the filter was LOL. We will look into that anti theft light, will it be located with the rest of the lights next to the gauges or elsewhere, we don't know much about hondas but definitely wanting to learn now HAHA.