Hello everyone, i bought these rims. They are 7.5” wide my tires are 195/45/16. Still did not lower the car and the tires still f*cks my fenders, and i want to lower it a bit more. Any solution? (Without camber or fender rolling)

 

No. If you refuse to add camber or roll your fenders, get another set of wheels. You're already stretching 195 tyres on 7.5" wide wheels.

 

Add Camber, -2 to -3 degrees is perfectly fine

 

roll and camber is really the best answer here but... if you want to do this the hard way.

1. get a SUPER STIFF COILOVERS
2. have a machine shop to shave down the back of the wheel. this will add offset to the wheel.
3. New wheels that has more offset or go narrower in width.

 

Options:
1. get smaller tires ---> 195 35R 16
2. add camber to rear
3. Fender roll all 4 corners. Fender rolling tool, not a phone book, baseball, metal pipe, PVC pipe, someone's bong, etc.

 

No, it is NOT. This much camber wears out the inside of the tires really fast... I know people who have to replace tires every 2 to 3 months !!!

OP, you have the WRONG wheels if you do not want rubbing... you need flat faced wheels or wheels with a mild lip (not deep) with an offset of +38-43mm if the wheel width is 7 to 7.5 inches. If you like the look of wheels that stick out instead of fitting under the fender... get used to rubbing. If you camber the wheels in to help reduce the rubbing, be prepared to purchase new tires on the regular.

 

Sarcasm?

No it doesn't, I've been daily driving my Civic with -3.5/-2.5 and put about 10k miles on my Civic this past year and don't have much inside tire wear, if any.. Alignment is what it is on my Civic b/c I dual use the car and autocross it with a separate set of wheels/tires. I get way more outside shoulder wear than I do on the inside tire.

 

Do you believe that the amount of camber that you have suggested will keep the wheels and tires pictured in the OP's original post enough to resolve the rubbing/cutting issues ?

 

I mean I have 15x8s on a 205/50/15 with no cutting issues with the camber in that spec.

So what is your point? First you talk about mentioning that much camber wears inside tires fast, now you are saying it won't fix his rubbing/cutting issues? So his specs are 16x7.5, but what offset? He doesnt say.

 

-2 to -3 camber is commonly used in AX and track setups to clear 15x8 +35 with 225s, so.. it’s very possible.
at the worst, it might just be a slight inner well roll.

 

Agreed... but I don't believe that this set of wheels pictured has an offset anywhere near +35mm... they are far more negative than that. This means that this car will look like a "Stance" ride to keep from rubbing... the wheels simply stick out too far. For those that say "I have 8's with camber at -3F/-2R and they don't rub, so 7.5's should be fine at the same settings" do not understand what offset means.

 

well the op never stated his offset

 

Exactly... which means that what works for you could be totally false for the OP. The front lip of the wheel sticks out really far past the lip of the fender, which suggests to me that the offset is FAR more negative than the +35mm offset that you have. I have 15x8 949's with a +36mm offset on my EG hatch, and your camber settings would work just fine on my car... with a slight premature wear on the inside 1/3 of the tire contact patch. Then again, I run 888R's... so they don't last much more than a couple of oil changes anyway.

 

Im surprised people still use R888r's... move to the newer stuff.

 

They are on my supercharged hatch... nothing with rain grooves in it maintains traction in the first three gears anyway. It is a street car, not a road race car.

I have BFG Rivals on my road race car... and those aren't "new" either. Since tires are sooooo expensive, I have been hesitant to try anything new. What do you run and how do they perform for road racing ? I realize tire demands are different for autocross and road racing... I just wondered if there is a tire that does BOTH effectively.

 

Going to write a bit of a mess of text but here goes lol.

Right now Im in a bit of a weird transition on tires. I've been on two year old Nexen n fera sport tires that don't seem to be offered in 15s currently. Did a track day on them and did 4 or so sessions on them and they were putting consistent laps for those 15 minute sessions. But then I broke the motor on the Integra and now just running them on the Civic to use them up and have fun driving a slow car fast. Down to two tires running on the front with old Conti Extreme contact sports in the rear just to have fun at autocross. Of course not advisable in most situations lol.

I am probably taking a break on any track stuff though, unless friends offer me codrives. The local track is having issues with half their track (the fun parts I enjoyed the most are affected) not being usable due to an FAA audit. Along with the level of prep needed to run and keep the car maintained and safe for track days is tiring, even if it was 2-3 events a year.

That new tire the Vitour Tempsta P1 seems to be able to handle both.

The tire tester at Grassroots motorsports magazine has the availability to tire test on tracks, but he lost the autocross site to test tires for that. I think the Yokohama and the RE71rs can handle both, but you will need to manage heat on them and are one lap wonders. What kind of road racing, time trials or wheel to wheel? And are you in the Southeast since I see roll tide in your sig? I know some that have tried kumho V730s, Nankang CRS for autocross and while they work, they need heat in them. One guy codrove with his wife on the Nankang in most events and they worked locally, but events he didnt the tire couldnt get heat in some events.

While I did not like the RT660 on my Integra (Need to try the RT660+), they can handle both track and autocross, but you'll give up a bit on either end compared to either pointy end tires of both spectrum. The original heat cycled out before the tread wore out and the shoulders do cord easily, but they can be managed. The issue is I had with them on my Integra was, they were unmounted in the garage for a year and then felt dead after a few events in the year after I had them mounted and driven on. The flipside is I ran them on my GTI and they were good until they weren't and I can't complain about them. I feel them sitting for a year unmounted didn't help, which is why I want to try them again and see if a fresh set will be fine (plus updated new tire). I do think the sharper steering on the GTI played better with the RT660 too, whereas I kind of like how DWB Hondas can be driven a lot "looser" and less precise.

I've tried and like the RE71RS on my mac strut VW GTI that lacks camber, but only in autocross. But I am not sure how they would do on the Civic or another dwb Honda. I want to bite the bullet on them, but pricing is more than I want to do for the Civic.

 

I am located just East of the Birmingham, Alabama area. Barber Motorsports Park is my home track. I have only done HPDE type events at this point, but spending 5+ hours on track over two weekend days is WAAAAAAYYY better than a 50 second autocross course six to eight times per day to me. I really only have the time (and money) to do 2-3 track weekends each year, so I don't go through tires very fast. They usually last two weekends. I have enjoyed the BFG's... they are just the most expensive choice I have seen, but I am scared to spend $$$ on something that isn't going to work for me. I figure that since I am still a second and a half slower than my original instructor in my own car out at Barber, I need to get better with what I HAVE instead of trying to improve it with tires.

 

Rivals are kind of old though? Last time I bought Rivals from Tire Rack back in 2019, a friend and I both got 2 year old rivals from 2017, if I buy them again I might get a 2021 rival at this point.

Either way, the price to performance ratio of the Rival in 2024 isn't there anymore either. The Kumho V730 would fit your needs better and cheaper.

I am over the extra maintenance of doing track days so I am going to stick with autocross. Its the different course designs and having to do less intensive maintenance is why I'll do an event or two per month vs a few track days. Gets my fix, and I don't have to drive 2+ hours and make sure the car won't break