06 accord engine swap with JDM questions
new to posting on forums but have been reading them for years but now i am in need of specific advise i could not find elsewhere.....
i have a 06 2.4l accord that has 360k original - kept it maintained but now removed it for lower mileage JDM engine - when purchased today the person at JDM said block and head are the same just swap over intake and parts - i was comparing the two engines after unloaded into garage and found a few differences - the Vtec assembly on front/pulley side is marked differently. the original says RAA and new says RBB after removal one is longer than the other but plug for it is the same. The VTEC solenoid on the side/exhaust has 2 plugs for original harness and replacement only has one.
should i just mount the 2 plug Vtech on exhaust side from original onto the JDM so my harness will work and ignore/leave the different (RBB) larger Vtec on front of engine since the wire harness plug will fit - i am trying to use my existing wire harness - the JDM guy said the intake(cable) on new one should be swapped with my original (drive by wire) setup and have no problems.
I am worried about the computer throwing codes for my VTEC since it would be a mashup of the two. can this work easily or should i take it back? if no error codes will pop i would rather keep the one i got today rather than winching it into the truck and driving back for 2hrs each way. your advise knowledge and experience is greatly appreciated
i have a 06 2.4l accord that has 360k original - kept it maintained but now removed it for lower mileage JDM engine - when purchased today the person at JDM said block and head are the same just swap over intake and parts - i was comparing the two engines after unloaded into garage and found a few differences - the Vtec assembly on front/pulley side is marked differently. the original says RAA and new says RBB after removal one is longer than the other but plug for it is the same. The VTEC solenoid on the side/exhaust has 2 plugs for original harness and replacement only has one.
should i just mount the 2 plug Vtech on exhaust side from original onto the JDM so my harness will work and ignore/leave the different (RBB) larger Vtec on front of engine since the wire harness plug will fit - i am trying to use my existing wire harness - the JDM guy said the intake(cable) on new one should be swapped with my original (drive by wire) setup and have no problems.
I am worried about the computer throwing codes for my VTEC since it would be a mashup of the two. can this work easily or should i take it back? if no error codes will pop i would rather keep the one i got today rather than winching it into the truck and driving back for 2hrs each way. your advise knowledge and experience is greatly appreciated
so many of these posts have no resolutions. I have resolved my own questions. This is what i learned from my JDM swap.
I had assumed all the shiny new bits could be used and i would just drop it in and plug it up. This is not the case, its not difficult but it is a lot.
The engine i picked up is a k24 but its a RBB and my USDM engine is a RAA(these markings I found on the Vtec "thing"coming out the top front of head (pulley side). Was worried when i discovered all the differences but it was unfounded. Had to switch over from my USDM to JDM for fitment: water pump housing, alternator, crank pulley(was too big makes later parts replacement easier to acquire) starter, EGR assembly, all hoses and pipes for heater and intake manifold with original throttle body and Vtec solenoid assembly-the one in back on exhaust side(Japan does not use pressure switch). I left all the sensors in the JDM that were left on the long block. Basically you only get to use the long block. Once this is done all connectors should fit in the right places and future replacement parts will be for an accord 2006 2.4l(in my case). NOTE the Vtec system is still different and if the one on the front of engine failed i would need an RBB - it is physically larger.
Some of my connectors/plugs from my wire harness were so "crispy" they shattered but all is good every one i needed was available thru Amazon. I puchased a Lysel weighted 19mm socket($33.00) and a china brand weighted socket and pulley holder thing set($21) from Amazon also to remove the crank pulleys - the wieghted Lysel socket spun the USDM bolt out but that JDM was stuck but the weird tool that holds the crank pulley worked with a 19mm socket and 6' pipe on breaker bar. All engine and transmission mounts were broken so I replaced them too.
I learned a lot from this journey took 3 weekends on and off waiting for bits and stuff to complete - 26 hours total with help on install day - got 400 miles plus on it now and no codes. I would do it again but maybe not JDM - would look locally first so i could keep my low mileage extras that come with it. Overall not a bad experience
I had assumed all the shiny new bits could be used and i would just drop it in and plug it up. This is not the case, its not difficult but it is a lot.
The engine i picked up is a k24 but its a RBB and my USDM engine is a RAA(these markings I found on the Vtec "thing"coming out the top front of head (pulley side). Was worried when i discovered all the differences but it was unfounded. Had to switch over from my USDM to JDM for fitment: water pump housing, alternator, crank pulley(was too big makes later parts replacement easier to acquire) starter, EGR assembly, all hoses and pipes for heater and intake manifold with original throttle body and Vtec solenoid assembly-the one in back on exhaust side(Japan does not use pressure switch). I left all the sensors in the JDM that were left on the long block. Basically you only get to use the long block. Once this is done all connectors should fit in the right places and future replacement parts will be for an accord 2006 2.4l(in my case). NOTE the Vtec system is still different and if the one on the front of engine failed i would need an RBB - it is physically larger.
Some of my connectors/plugs from my wire harness were so "crispy" they shattered but all is good every one i needed was available thru Amazon. I puchased a Lysel weighted 19mm socket($33.00) and a china brand weighted socket and pulley holder thing set($21) from Amazon also to remove the crank pulleys - the wieghted Lysel socket spun the USDM bolt out but that JDM was stuck but the weird tool that holds the crank pulley worked with a 19mm socket and 6' pipe on breaker bar. All engine and transmission mounts were broken so I replaced them too.
I learned a lot from this journey took 3 weekends on and off waiting for bits and stuff to complete - 26 hours total with help on install day - got 400 miles plus on it now and no codes. I would do it again but maybe not JDM - would look locally first so i could keep my low mileage extras that come with it. Overall not a bad experience
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